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Wheel Bearings

3.5K views 15 replies 11 participants last post by  Vrod-tlam  
#1 ·
Hi all, new to the group. Just got my 02 a couple of weeks ago and had the local dealer check it out before I bought it. Its got 5k miles on it and is in great shape but they indicated it needs new tires and the rear wheel bearings are leaking, so they recommended just going ahead and replacing the front and rear bearings on both sides while they were at it and the quote for the tires, bearings, and labor was $880. I negotiated the price on the bike down, so thats not an issue. I already found a good deal on the Dunlops on line ($225) and there is a local Harley shop that can put em on for me, but I cant find the bearings anywhere other than the dealer. Any recommendations? I think I can get it all done for around $450. Or should I just have the dealer do the bearings?

Thanks!!

AZVROD
 
#2 ·
You're not likely to save much going aftermarket on the bearing so I would just buy them from the dealer. If the local shop has the proper HD bearing removal tool then let them do it. If not then the dealer is your only option. Without that tool it's a royal pain in the a$$ and they could do some damage to the bearing seat.

BTW, did they do a bearing runout test? That's the only way to know for sure they are bad, you can't "eyeball" it.
 
#3 ·
The wheel bearings are theoretically a 100,000 mile item. However, most of the techs. I've spoken to suggest they get replaced at around 40,000 - 50,000 miles (whichever is the closest tire replacement) simply on the basis that its cheap insurance against later, on-the-road failure.

For that reason, I'd be somewhat curious as to why the wheels bearings need replacement on a bike with only 5,000 miles. If the previous owner got water in there (a pressure washer, etc.) that might destroy them - but simply the fact that they are leaking grease does not mean they need replacement. There have been numerous reports on these bearings coming over-packed from the factory. I'd confirm that the bearings are in fact damaged before spending any money on replacement.

From what I've read, replacing the wheel bearings is not a difficult job - but it does require a special bearing press (which your Harley dealer will have). The bearings themselves also should not be that expensive.
 
#4 ·
Get the bearing part number from the side of the bearing and go to your local Timken bearing supply house. It is the exact bearing, as Harley does not manufacture bearings for wheels in any of their facilities that I am aware of. You'll save anywhere from 10 to 25% by doing so.

If you can see the outer race bearing edge or the bearing is not completely covered by its bed it lies in, from the opposite side axle hole, use a long metal driver to hammer the bearing out. Be sure not to bugger the edge of the rim where the bearing mounts against. if you do, you'll have to use a dremel and a very small piece of abrasive like emery cloth to smooth the surface to get the new bearing to lie flat.

It might be best to remove the wheel, take it in, have them R & R the bearing while the tire is being mounted too.

If you like mechanical challenges to save a few $ for the beer you'll drink while doing the job, have at it and don't nip the knuckles while doing the work.

5K requiring a bearing change out? Are they growling while riding? Get the bike into the air, roll the wheel, and if they feel smooth, ride it and don't worry about it. If there is a lot of slop, like .005 thousands side to side maybe they do need change out.

I rented a V-Rod in Vegas back in August, and it had a problem of oil seepage out of the bearings and black lines went out to the rims edge, and the bearing had no consequence other than making the rim look like it had an oil leak. I was riding that bike at 100 MPH for hours at end, and no issue from wheel bearings.
 
#5 ·
The bearings are actually made for H-D by Ina Bearings
http://www.ina.com/inaupdate/index.asp?l=en

I'm going to see if I can get them thru work from our local distributor. The dealer charges $30 each for these bearings & takes 4 for new wheels = $120 :eek: ...that's just the parts, labor is extra of course.

I tried all kinds of things to get my old ones out, no luck. There is a tight fit sleeve between the bearings that prevents getting a punch or driver on the edge to drive them out. I had to get a motorcycle shop to do them.
 
#6 ·
Thanks to all!

Hey thanks everybody for the responses! I think what Ill do is go ahead and have the new tires put on and have the shop give me a second on the bearings. The guy at Chandler HD here in AZ (to his credit) when asked how critical it was (i.e locked up with me going under a truck), said if it was his bike he wouldnt worry about it yet, but he wanted to let me know since I was buying the bike from a private party. BTW, if anybodys coming down to sunny Phoenix, give me a holler.... its beautiful this time of year!

AZVROD
 
#7 ·
Rich Moran said:
Get the bearing part number from the side of the bearing and go to your local Timken bearing supply house. It is the exact bearing, as Harley does not manufacture bearings for wheels in any of their facilities that I am aware of. You'll save anywhere from 10 to 25% by doing so.
Doesn't AutoZone Carry Timken Bearings now?
 
#8 ·
Not sure, but we have 2 bearing supply houses on oahu I use frequently for various projects when required. I price HD OEM bearings, then the supply houses and if HD can't compete, I go to the supply houses.

If INA makes em, thats what you'll need if the bearings are not spec'd up into common sizes. By that I mean standard outer axle OD and bearing OD and ID to fit the wheel and the axle.

I had to do the bearings on my Sporty, and went through 12 dremel cut off wheels, and 5 die grinder bits, just because I did not want the dealer into the bike. It was time specific, not the money for me as I could have paid to have it done, but the wait was killer for turn around. Just the front wheel was done, and it took about 4 to 5 hours to get the damn things out. The bearing races are really solid hard dense materials built to take a lot of abuse, including eating up abrasives quickly.

Not sure if JIMS is making the bearing removal tool as yet. Anyone know?

Without the right tools, the job takes forever it seems, specifically if you cannot see any part of the bearing to grab onto with the drift pin.
 
#10 ·
A variety of places in many towns.
Some are Motin Industries, Dixie Bearing, Bearings and Drives.
They are an industry standard double sealed prelubed ball bearing.
Many have their particular part number or part of it (varies by manufacturer) etched on the side.
INA, New Departure, SKF, ***, Fafnir, MRC, are just a few that will have equivalent items and be distributed by most bearing houses.
They are sized by inner diameter, outer diameter, width, seal type if applicable.
 
#11 ·
If any of you get a non-HD part number (such as one from INA) please post it here. Most bearings can be crossed to other manufacturers part numbers. I just got my HD Reactor Pulley and it came without the bearing, so I'm suddenly in the market to buy one...
 
#12 ·
Rich Moran said:
If you can see the outer race bearing edge or the bearing is not completely covered by its bed it lies in, from the opposite side axle hole, use a long metal driver to hammer the bearing out.
There is absolutely no edge to get against. Tim tried for quite some time yesterday and couldn't budge the bearing, so I'm hauling the wheels to the dealer this week to have them remove the bearings.
 
#13 ·
VRodMelissa said:
There is absolutely no edge to get against. Tim tried for quite some time yesterday and couldn't budge the bearing, so I'm hauling the wheels to the dealer this week to have them remove the bearings.
Thats a problem for removing the bearing if you can't bite an edge to grip with the driver. Usually, using a brass driver will aid in getting a bite, as they are soft enough to morph to bite, and then again, being soft, it could drive out of what it bites into. I have had luck getting a hold of old hydraulic ram piston rods. these are soft enough to bite, and dense enough that once they bite, they don't shed any material and slip. Also, having access to a bench grinder can aid in conforming the tip of the driver to aid in biting otherwise impossible surfaces.

Another trick is to use a center punch locked or welded into a tube. If you can get the punch to bite, you can do wonders with it.

Another trick is to use an undersized grade 8 UNC washer. Slide it into the opening and see if you can get it to bite onto the surface tween the bearing and seat. Sometimes you can, and if you can't a large screwdriver might aid in holding it in place.

Just remember, what ever you bugger on the rim, can be cleaned up with a dremel.

I am getting really Mickey Mouse here with that recommendation, but, if your bonkers on doing the work yourself, get inventive.

Worked with an Uncle many years back on the farm, and his motto always was "I gotta do this..and can"" The farmers are always amazing at what they can accomplish with their equipment away from a shop.

The Dealer route is the one way to get stuff done the right way, any way else is getting the stuff done...period. Its amazing what having the right tools can do for you.