- OEM clutch specifies to use tool "45318" for clutch nut removal.​

- Slipper clutch needs tool "48625" according to the instruction.​

What is the reason for them being different? I guess the original has 5x springs, the slipper only 4x springs. Do I need these tools at all? How can I do the install without these tools?

Does it make sense to change the springs on the slipper clutch? I am building for 160-170hp of power.

What are your thoughts?

 

Don' t need special tools.

No idea on the spring upgrade but someone will chime in on that.
Ron

 

Don' t need special tools.

No idea on the spring upgrade but someone will chime in on that.
Ron

Thanks for that

 

I bought the Clutch holding tool so it can be torqued properly and make me feel good about doing it right - How does that happen with an air ratchet ? Many variables, air pressure, age of tool, how long applied etc. - for nut coming off, great ! Going back on ? Just have to have faith I guess - same with nut on fwd. pulley flange - output bearing that may be damaged doing it that way, not recommended far as I know -

 

Agree, nice to have that HD tool but even as tool anal as I am, just can't justify the cost for one time use. One a more sane level, EBC tools sell a locking tool for the v rod. 2 versions, pre slipper and for the slipper clutch. About 39 bucks each. I have one but never used yet.

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Ron

 

Yea those are a great alternative Ron I almost went that way but I just closed my eyes and threw another $ 150 at it and bought the tool that mounts to the main case and has tangs for the clutch basket that way I'm pretty sure it will transfer the torque load better and make torque of the nut easier. It's kinda funny they sell both the big basket removal and installation tools - removal is not needed using the air impact gun, as it can be held by hand like on the video, so just the install basket for torquing the nut.

 

Thanks team I bought the 4-pronged version for tightening the slipper back on. What is the actual torque? Great that they provide an installation instruction but then don`t specify anything there.

 

162 foot lbs. on the clutch hub nut. Likely need a pipe extension on the EBC tool to hold it. Let me know how that tool works. I've got one but haven't used it yet, only tested it to see how strong it is. Should be up to the task.
Contact Barnett on the springs. On a slip assist, ramps do the force aspect to the plates and should be good to 160 hp, give or take condition of plates. I don't know for sure if there's real gain in heavier springs alone on a stock slipper and it could also take away the slip effect on decel or reduce the effect. Barnett should have all real data you need.
Ron

 

What about the springs on the slipper clutch? Are there any stronger ones available?

 

The 4-spring slipper clutch can be upgraded by using the Barnet clutch set (2x extra steel and 2x extra friction plates)
part number 303-30-20040
Barnett don’t sell the steel and friction plates separately, so only the springs are
(BOUGHT) part number 501-58-04131

 

I did the slipper clutch install last night. I do not own the HD-45318 clutch hub holder, I have the 2 EBC clutch holder tools.

REMOVAL So I put the bike in 2 gear and used a air impact to remove the Clutch hub nut. I just removed the clutch pack and not the hub. Don't wasted your money on the EBC tool with 5 holes.

INSTALL I also had to loosen the lifter plate bolts to wiggle and align some of the friction plate tabs to the basket. Cleaned up the threads with Acetone on shaft and nut added 3 drops of blue loc

tite. I was trying to figure out why the 4 hole EBC clutch tool kept slipping off the lifter plate bolt heads? This is turning into a 3 hand job something is wrong? Then it came to me to remove the lifter plate bolts, lifter plate and clutch springs. EBC tool engages the clutch hub and the pressure plate part the springs slide on. Now this makes sense one hand on the Metal fence post pounding tool and one hand on torque wrench see picture. Reinstall clutch springs, lifter plate, snap rings and continue blah blah per 2008 shop manual. I guess I should have used red loctite.