Anybody pull the airbox lid off yet? Anybody know what the sensor is in the top of the lid? Thanks!!
J.U.VRSCR said:The Gil's box makes a big difference?
Its almost that simple..blhandi said:Just a beginners Question But... So I just pull the black plastic top off the Streetrod air box, secure the sensor, remove the clips and I get more power with NO harm done? (except a differnt sound). No retuning nothing? Is that the "topless" I keep hearing?
Dude where have You Been? :whack: 11.52@119 with his Box and Gutted Pipe+SE Filter on my First on the Forum :stooge:On Black R Way Back when :wazzup: !It's still the Fastest stock Bike but because it's Me Max won't let the Video count :banghead: !Gil's Box RIPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb:J.U.VRSCR said:Thank you! I will try it tonight. I have a K&N filter for it already. The Gil's box makes a big difference?
You are working on the assumption that the stock pipes are already flowing all the volume they can. I don't believe that is the case. My VRSCR had a slight stumble in its stock configuration, indicating it was lean in certain ranges. When I replaced the air filter with a K&N filter, the problem became quite a bit worse. Under your theory it should have made no change whatsoever.Fletch said:By installing a K&N type filter (reducing INFLOW restriction to incomming air), but without changing the OUTFLOW restriction (backpressure), there is no need to change the stock fuel mapping since the total volume of air which each cylinder can process per stroke is also governed by the total amount of air allowed to pass through the engine including the exhaust system. The resultant increase in AVAILABLE air volume is analagous to a decrease in atmospheric altitude (i.e.: an increase in atmospheric pressure) - like descending a mountain road and is accomodated by the EFI's ability to sense changes in airflow. If you install an exhaust offering reduced backpressure, you have now enabled the engine to process (flow through) more air per stroke and will need to remap the ECM to enrichen the fuel-air mixture. The stock VRSCR is shipped (due to its specific exhaust system characteristics) with ECM calibration similar to the "upgrade" ECM download required when installing the Screaming Eagle slip-on mufflers to the VRSCA & B models.
Yes check my Threads on my R 11.52@119 with just Gill's Box and 113rwhp!J.U.VRSCR said:Thank you! I will try it tonight. I have a K&N filter for it already. The Gil's box makes a big difference?
what are your Gil's box setting when you ran topless and top on with the new filter and then with the baffles removed if you don't mind please?j_rod1111 said:I've tried several different setups with my Gil's box since I've got my R:
K&N, Top on, Stock pipes- Ran Perfect
K&N, Top off, Stock pipes- ditto
K&N, Top on , Drilled holes in pipes-perfect
K&N, Top off, Drilled holes - ditto
K&N, Top off, Baffles removed - The Best. It was like the weight of the world being lifted off the bike's shoulders. It feels like the difference of riding two up vs. one up...seriously.
IMO, Gil's box will help you regardless of your setup, climate, etc. Worth every penny.
P.S. Gil's customer service is great...Answers his phone, responds to email...
Jim
It came to me set at G3 Y7 R3 for topless, k&n, stock pipesbremo76VRSCR said::banghead: :helpme:
what are your Gil's box setting when you ran topless and top on with the new filter and then with the baffles removed if you don't mind please?
I did mine after my 1k service and its not time for my 5K. Now that I've gutted my pipes and have the HID ballast and Igniter in my box, I'm not sure if I'll go through the trouble unless I am having problems with the bike when it comes time for service.Kokse said:Do you guys put the lid back on and take the PCs, Gil's box etc. out when you bring it in for service? I am asking because I ordered Gil's box and I am also due for the 5k service soon.
How did you fix the clunk?184 said:When I took my bike in for the 1000 mile service and told them about the missing heat shield screws and missing front brake lever pivit pin retaining clip and the fuel injection plugs being backwards. I did take off my Gil's and put the top back on.
But when they said thet weren't ready to do all that work that day, so didn't do any of it, and reschueduled me for a month away. I took my bike home. Since then I have done my own 1000 miles service, fixed my own clunk, change my oil four times, replaced my bars, P-modded my exhaust, removed my own wheels for new tires, installed the braided steel water hose, crome thermostat housing and installed the complete crome engine kit. Including the rocker covers which you have to lower the engine to do.
I don't think the dealer will ever see my bike again. I hope, and barring any major problems I think I can handle regular matenance and repairs.
To answer your question though. I think it all depends on your dealer and or your relationship with him. A dealer told me "Harley pays our service rates just like any other customer. We do not dislike warranty work and do not try to get out of it" Then there are some laws regarding proof that the mods you did caused the problem that your bike is having, that you think the warranty should cover. Search warranty for more on this.
About the Gil's box setting after P/J/V-modding pipes.
I called Gil a few days after modding my pipes. I told him that he had set the box for a stock motor with high flow air cleaner and topless. I told him that I had gutted my stock pipes. He recomended one point up on the yellow and one point up on the red. That would put the settings at G3.0 Y7.5 and
red 4.0
I have done a few houndred miles like this can't say for sure whats better, these or the ones Jim is using. Just food for though.
Phil
Re-torqued the nut under the instrument pod. Torque is listed in the service manual, I think it was 65lbs. You have to loosen the pinch bolts on the tree first though.Segus1 said:How did you fix the clunk?
My back wheel is off right now, as well as the front. I took it off with a cresent wrench but I will be buying the correct size socket in a day or two so I can use the torque wrench to put it back on. I am carring the nut around with me till I make it to the tool store. I can tell you that it's bigger that 32mm but not by much. I'll keep you posted.truperdave said:PLEASE: would anyone please tell me what size wrench is required to remove the rear wheel? i asked before in another thread and got no response. im sure someone has removed their wheel. ive got to buy one.
thanks
The nut measures 36mm, but I just use an adjustable open end (Cresent). It wasn't worth buying a new socket to me.truperdave said:PLEASE: would anyone please tell me what size wrench is required to remove the rear wheel? i asked before in another thread and got no response. im sure someone has removed their wheel. ive got to buy one.
thanks