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Topless StreetRod

2.8K views 25 replies 16 participants last post by  Steve72901  
#1 ·
Anybody pull the airbox lid off yet? Anybody know what the sensor is in the top of the lid? Thanks!!
 
#2 ·
Its the air temperature sensor. Tape, tie, or embed it somewhere near where it was and put the lid on a shelf (and remove the clips - they rattle).
 
#3 ·
Yep - it's the way to go. Free power? Good thing. Team it up with a Gil's Box and eliminate the 2800 - 3200 RPM stumble.

Haven't changed the air filter yet, but probably will soon enough.

Sound's good - kinda loud at first - then you don't notice it - nice "muscle-y" kinda sound.

I'd say especially with the better Street Rod Exhaust that the Airbox top is the bottleneck in the equation.

Let us know what you think after you've done it!
 
#5 ·
Just a beginners Question But... So I just pull the black plastic top off the Streetrod air box, secure the sensor, remove the clips and I get more power with NO harm done? (except a differnt sound). No retuning nothing? Is that the "topless" I keep hearing?
 
#6 ·
J.U.VRSCR said:
The Gil's box makes a big difference?

Yes - I probably wouldn't run my bike topless without it, but I wouldn't run my bike anymore without the Gil's Box to begin with - with or without the top.
 
#7 ·
blhandi said:
Just a beginners Question But... So I just pull the black plastic top off the Streetrod air box, secure the sensor, remove the clips and I get more power with NO harm done? (except a differnt sound). No retuning nothing? Is that the "topless" I keep hearing?
Its almost that simple..

Power = Air + Fuel..

So by removing the airbox cover you are removing a restriction to airflow so you have met one of the criteria.. Now you need to add the right amount of fuel to give you the added power..

The methods for adding fuel (in order of level of control over the engine) are..
1) Screamin Eagle Race Tuner also refered to as SERT
2) Power Commander also refered to as PC or PCIII
3 a) Screamin Eagle Race Fueler
3 b) Gills Box
3 c) Techlusion TFI box

At this point the SERT doesn't work on the 06 bikes..
All the number 3's work in the same way so would probably get the same results which is why I grouped them..
 
#8 ·
J.U.VRSCR said:
Thank you! I will try it tonight. I have a K&N filter for it already. The Gil's box makes a big difference?
Dude where have You Been? :whack: 11.52@119 with his Box and Gutted Pipe+SE Filter on my First on the Forum :stooge:On Black R Way Back when :wazzup: !It's still the Fastest stock Bike but because it's Me Max won't let the Video count :banghead: !Gil's Box RIPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumb:
 
#10 ·
By installing a K&N type filter (reducing INFLOW restriction to incomming air), but without changing the OUTFLOW restriction (backpressure), there is no need to change the stock fuel mapping since the total volume of air which each cylinder can process per stroke is also governed by the total amount of air allowed to pass through the engine including the exhaust system. The resultant increase in AVAILABLE air volume is analagous to a decrease in atmospheric altitude (i.e.: an increase in atmospheric pressure) - like descending a mountain road and is accomodated by the EFI's ability to sense changes in airflow. If you install an exhaust offering reduced backpressure, you have now enabled the engine to process (flow through) more air per stroke and will need to remap the ECM to enrichen the fuel-air mixture. The stock VRSCR is shipped (due to its specific exhaust system characteristics) with ECM calibration similar to the "upgrade" ECM download required when installing the Screaming Eagle slip-on mufflers to the VRSCA & B models.
 
#11 ·
Fletch said:
By installing a K&N type filter (reducing INFLOW restriction to incomming air), but without changing the OUTFLOW restriction (backpressure), there is no need to change the stock fuel mapping since the total volume of air which each cylinder can process per stroke is also governed by the total amount of air allowed to pass through the engine including the exhaust system. The resultant increase in AVAILABLE air volume is analagous to a decrease in atmospheric altitude (i.e.: an increase in atmospheric pressure) - like descending a mountain road and is accomodated by the EFI's ability to sense changes in airflow. If you install an exhaust offering reduced backpressure, you have now enabled the engine to process (flow through) more air per stroke and will need to remap the ECM to enrichen the fuel-air mixture. The stock VRSCR is shipped (due to its specific exhaust system characteristics) with ECM calibration similar to the "upgrade" ECM download required when installing the Screaming Eagle slip-on mufflers to the VRSCA & B models.
You are working on the assumption that the stock pipes are already flowing all the volume they can. I don't believe that is the case. My VRSCR had a slight stumble in its stock configuration, indicating it was lean in certain ranges. When I replaced the air filter with a K&N filter, the problem became quite a bit worse. Under your theory it should have made no change whatsoever.

After installing Gil's Box, with Gil's recommended settings, the bike performs perfectly throughout the entire RPM range. Your ideas may be true, but they aren't born out in my experience.

Steve
 
#12 ·
Fletch,
I am with Steve on this one.. The stock exhaust has plenty of flow available.. On a stock bike your restriction is on the inlet side, namely the airbox snorkel and following that the air filter.. From the factory the R is running pretty lean so even the slightest increase in airflow is going to lean it out even more..
Personally I am not modding anything till I choose which fuel management system I am going to use..
 
#13 ·
J.U.VRSCR said:
Thank you! I will try it tonight. I have a K&N filter for it already. The Gil's box makes a big difference?
Yes check my Threads on my R 11.52@119 with just Gill's Box and 113rwhp! :eek:
 
#14 ·
How does humidity and air temp play into this equation? My commute is usually at 6:00 am in very thick Central California Coast fog between 50-60 degrees F. Would these conditions exacerbate the cold starting sputter? I've got 1,500 miles on the bike now and the engine seems to sputter less than when I first got it, but it's still pretty annoying. Sounds like Gil's box is the best way to go.
 
#15 ·
I've tried several different setups with my Gil's box since I've got my R:

K&N, Top on, Stock pipes- Ran Perfect
K&N, Top off, Stock pipes- ditto
K&N, Top on , Drilled holes in pipes-perfect
K&N, Top off, Drilled holes - ditto
K&N, Top off, Baffles removed - The Best. It was like the weight of the world being lifted off the bike's shoulders. It feels like the difference of riding two up vs. one up...seriously.

IMO, Gil's box will help you regardless of your setup, climate, etc. Worth every penny.

P.S. Gil's customer service is great...Answers his phone, responds to email...

Jim
 
#16 ·
:banghead: :helpme:
j_rod1111 said:
I've tried several different setups with my Gil's box since I've got my R:

K&N, Top on, Stock pipes- Ran Perfect
K&N, Top off, Stock pipes- ditto
K&N, Top on , Drilled holes in pipes-perfect
K&N, Top off, Drilled holes - ditto
K&N, Top off, Baffles removed - The Best. It was like the weight of the world being lifted off the bike's shoulders. It feels like the difference of riding two up vs. one up...seriously.

IMO, Gil's box will help you regardless of your setup, climate, etc. Worth every penny.

P.S. Gil's customer service is great...Answers his phone, responds to email...

Jim
what are your Gil's box setting when you ran topless and top on with the new filter and then with the baffles removed if you don't mind please?
 
#17 ·
bremo76VRSCR said:
:banghead: :helpme:

what are your Gil's box setting when you ran topless and top on with the new filter and then with the baffles removed if you don't mind please?
It came to me set at G3 Y7 R3 for topless, k&n, stock pipes
I turned it to G3.5 Y5.5 R4.5 when I put the top back on

After removing the baffles I tweaked it to G4'ish Y6.5 R 6

It runs like a raped ape. I outran a CBR 600 and was still pulling away @120 mph when I let off. I was neck & neck with the CBR 929... I rode 200 miles with those two bikes today. They taught me a few things about cornering...
 
#19 ·
Kokse said:
Do you guys put the lid back on and take the PCs, Gil's box etc. out when you bring it in for service? I am asking because I ordered Gil's box and I am also due for the 5k service soon.
I did mine after my 1k service and its not time for my 5K. Now that I've gutted my pipes and have the HID ballast and Igniter in my box, I'm not sure if I'll go through the trouble unless I am having problems with the bike when it comes time for service.
 
#20 ·
When I took my bike in for the 1000 mile service and told them about the missing heat shield screws and missing front brake lever pivit pin retaining clip and the fuel injection plugs being backwards. I did take off my Gil's and put the top back on.
But when they said thet weren't ready to do all that work that day, so didn't do any of it, and reschueduled me for a month away. I took my bike home. Since then I have done my own 1000 miles service, fixed my own clunk, change my oil four times, replaced my bars, P-modded my exhaust, removed my own wheels for new tires, installed the braided steel water hose, crome thermostat housing and installed the complete crome engine kit. Including the rocker covers which you have to lower the engine to do.
I don't think the dealer will ever see my bike again. I hope, and barring any major problems I think I can handle regular matenance and repairs.
To answer your question though. I think it all depends on your dealer and or your relationship with him. A dealer told me "Harley pays our service rates just like any other customer. We do not dislike warranty work and do not try to get out of it" Then there are some laws regarding proof that the mods you did caused the problem that your bike is having, that you think the warranty should cover. Search warranty for more on this.

About the Gil's box setting after P/J/V-modding pipes.
I called Gil a few days after modding my pipes. I told him that he had set the box for a stock motor with high flow air cleaner and topless. I told him that I had gutted my stock pipes. He recomended one point up on the yellow and one point up on the red. That would put the settings at G3.0 Y7.5 and
red 4.0
I have done a few houndred miles like this can't say for sure whats better, these or the ones Jim is using. Just food for though.

Phil
 
#21 ·
184 said:
When I took my bike in for the 1000 mile service and told them about the missing heat shield screws and missing front brake lever pivit pin retaining clip and the fuel injection plugs being backwards. I did take off my Gil's and put the top back on.
But when they said thet weren't ready to do all that work that day, so didn't do any of it, and reschueduled me for a month away. I took my bike home. Since then I have done my own 1000 miles service, fixed my own clunk, change my oil four times, replaced my bars, P-modded my exhaust, removed my own wheels for new tires, installed the braided steel water hose, crome thermostat housing and installed the complete crome engine kit. Including the rocker covers which you have to lower the engine to do.
I don't think the dealer will ever see my bike again. I hope, and barring any major problems I think I can handle regular matenance and repairs.
To answer your question though. I think it all depends on your dealer and or your relationship with him. A dealer told me "Harley pays our service rates just like any other customer. We do not dislike warranty work and do not try to get out of it" Then there are some laws regarding proof that the mods you did caused the problem that your bike is having, that you think the warranty should cover. Search warranty for more on this.

About the Gil's box setting after P/J/V-modding pipes.
I called Gil a few days after modding my pipes. I told him that he had set the box for a stock motor with high flow air cleaner and topless. I told him that I had gutted my stock pipes. He recomended one point up on the yellow and one point up on the red. That would put the settings at G3.0 Y7.5 and
red 4.0
I have done a few houndred miles like this can't say for sure whats better, these or the ones Jim is using. Just food for though.

Phil
How did you fix the clunk?
 
#22 ·
gils box etc...

got gil's box installed on my s'rod and the bike runs 100% better!!!! for the money gil's box is the best investment i've laid down. had to call him on sat. (i installed fri. night) for a few pointers and low and behold he picked up the phone and helped me out!lol i really didn't think he was going to pick up. gave me the skinny on the topless set up w/the k&n filter and speedy818 hooked me up w/the scoop on the drill outs for the stock pipes. i'm probably going to finish mod'ing the pipes (v-mod style) to see what she'll do. this forum is THE GREATEST, and i'm happy to be a part of it, since my harley dealers can't seem to offer me anything except bad advice.lol now if i could only get rid of the front end "clunk..."
 
#23 ·
PLEASE: would anyone please tell me what size wrench is required to remove the rear wheel? i asked before in another thread and got no response. im sure someone has removed their wheel. ive got to buy one.
thanks
 
#25 ·
truperdave said:
PLEASE: would anyone please tell me what size wrench is required to remove the rear wheel? i asked before in another thread and got no response. im sure someone has removed their wheel. ive got to buy one.
thanks
My back wheel is off right now, as well as the front. I took it off with a cresent wrench but I will be buying the correct size socket in a day or two so I can use the torque wrench to put it back on. I am carring the nut around with me till I make it to the tool store. I can tell you that it's bigger that 32mm but not by much. I'll keep you posted.
 
#26 ·
truperdave said:
PLEASE: would anyone please tell me what size wrench is required to remove the rear wheel? i asked before in another thread and got no response. im sure someone has removed their wheel. ive got to buy one.
thanks
The nut measures 36mm, but I just use an adjustable open end (Cresent). It wasn't worth buying a new socket to me.

Steve