Hello,

At the beginning I'm sorry for my english
I have VRSCA 2002, a week ago after the ride my v-rod on idel have above 2000 RPM and lights up chceck egine.
I check a code and: P0505
I read a little bit and I bought a new one IAC install, start a bike and everything was fine, but when I made a small round and the engine warmed up, it's exactly the same again.
Where to look for the problem now ?

Thank you for all the advice

Krystian

Could be a throttle cable issue with not returning or possibly the engine temp sensor. Does it smell like it's running too rich at high idle when hot?
Ron

 

When engine is cold everything is ok 1400-1500 RPM.
I start riding, and after a few minutes I don't need use throttle...
stop, the engine cools down and everything returns to normal.

where is engine temp sensor ?

 

On the t

When engine is cold everything is ok 1400-1500 RPM.
I start riding, and after a few minutes I don't need use throttle...
stop, the engine cools down and everything returns to normal.

where is engine temp sensor ?

On the thermostat housing, seen from the left side of bike Generally if defective the fans won't operate either and engine will overheat. Do you have a power commander on this bike? It still could be IAC related.
Ron

 

On the 2002 v rods the intake air temperature sensor was placed down between the heads and is susceptible to engine heat. Harley made a change to relocate that sensor up to the air box and that fixed the issue. They make a pigtail extension to move the 2002 sensors to the air box, or you can make your own.


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True, but the IAT will only lean and richen mixture, not alter idle rpms.
Ron

 

Ok, I warmed up the motorcycle and i know:
i dont need go to ride, after 2-3minuts Check Engine P0505 lights up.
And Fans starts when the motorcycle is hot enough

Video:

A new IAC need be programed ?
And i change sparkplugs few days ago ?

 

Ok, I warmed up the motorcycle and i know:
i dont need go to ride, after 2-3minuts Check Engine P0505 lights up.
And Fans starts when the motorcycle is hot enough

Video:

A new IAC need be programed ?
And i change sparkplugs few days ago ?

No IAC reset needed as it sets itself on each key on event but it's pointing to loss of idle control. Do you have any air leaks in the intake system? An IAC has limited amount of range to contol air inlet. Any leak will overpower it's ability and the air leak adds extra air in which raises the idle rpm. Without some form of logging to see the steps the IAC is using, it's tough to identify what's going on. Your cold start 1400 ish , is about right so it must be working in that range. Check throttle body boots for cracks or loose and see if that rubber plug is on the rear throttle body. If it's missing it's an air leak there. The fact the fans come on shows the temp sensor is working and engine is not staying in cold start rpms. One down. Air leak checks next. Make sure your throttle is returning to full stop at the throttle bodies and well. If not, this extra air coming in will overpower what the IAC can pull back, so the idle will be too high.
Ron

 

I didn't change the screw (red arrow)
no hear any strange voice:

It seems to me that it has to do with temperature, the colder the motorcycle, the later the check engine lights up after reset

 

IAC seems to be functioning as it should. Without some form of logging data this is going to be hard to identify. Did you check for leaks and tape over the tb inlets to see if idle is normal? Yes the IAC is controlled via a temp table in the calibration. Cold, it lets more air in and as it heats up the IAC slowly closes to reduce inlet air and drop the rpm. If it's getting air from somewhere else the idle will be higher then normal and there won't be enough low steps in the IAC to control this to the specified rpm/temp and it will throw a code. The reason I asked if you monkeyed with that red arrow screw is if the TPS voltage is set too high, the ECM will have trouble identifying settings for idle via the IAC. All this shit is interconnected for a final result in the end. Logging , you can see what steps the IAC is running at at all temps as well as what the TPS volts are at 0% throttle. Trial and error can work on this but it can be frustrating until you find the culprit. For now, tape over the throttle bodies and compare both idle and see if the code re appears when hot. Leave the IAC port open as usual. I suspect no difference but worth ruling out. While taped over, shoot some brake cleaner gently around the boots and note any drop in engine rpm. The taping will help prevent false readings that otherwise would cause the brake cleaner to be sucked into the tb inlets.
Ron

 

You didn't change the screw in the bottom left of the Pic did you?

Sent from the Arizona desert

 

Go

Good point. Unless one knows how all this works, it's a no touch zone.
Ron

 

Ron-
Silly question.. but the tps is a 3 wire sensor, yes? 5 volt reference, signal and ground? If so, one could backprobe the signal wire and if there was a known good voltage, tps can be verified. (Usually around .5v I would guess). Also, does this bike use an o2 sensor? Here too, a voltmeter (labscope better still) on the signal wire would indicate if it’s running lean (less than 450mv) and be a clue to a possible vacuum leak.

 

You can probe the TPS from signal to ground. At idle or key on only it should read between .045 -.047 volt and twisting throttle to stop, about 4.6-4.8 volts. This will give you an idea the blade opening and tps setting good as a rule. O2 sensor probing, don't think that will work well for a leak test. What you could do is that rubber cap on the throttle body, it can be removed and a vacuum gauge hooked up. These engines generally idle at 24-30 kpa +/-2. I think most vac gauges this will be in the 22 range on the scale but do the pressure conversion anyway. The signal wire of the map sensor can also be probed but a pain in the ass to get to. You can probe the map sensor at the ECM , slightly less of a pain. Same with tps wire at ECM. If you probe it, again the engine should be in the 24-30 kpa range, in which the voltage on the probing should be at idle 0.75-1.00. A higher volt reading then that, say 1.5 or more would indicate a leak between the throttle plates and map sensor. Do you know anyone with a PV unit. It will plug into your bike and show all of these signals. Same with anyone with a TTS. While both of these marry to the owners bike when loading a cal, they don't need to be married to use the basic signal viewing functions. It would make your life so much easier if you can dig one up.
Ron

 

Well, gentlemen, I found the reasons for the increased RPM and error P0505.
The problem is the nut that secures the filter cover...

the harder I screw it, the RPM increases and an error lights up.
At this moment he is screwed, just to keep it. without resistance

But I'm not going to leave it like this, and now the question is, what does this stick with RPM have in common?

 

Well, gentlemen, I found the reasons for the increased RPM and error P0505.
The problem is the nut that secures the filter cover...

View attachment 603642

the harder I screw it, the RPM increases and an error lights up.
At this moment he is screwed, just to keep it. without resistance

But I'm not going to leave it like this, and now the question is, what does this stick with RPM have in common?

Like I said before. The IAC is running out of control from extra air coming in at which point it will throw a code. This really is a WTF moment because in order to yank the socket flange from the head oring seal or tear the boot possibly or whatever this extreme tightening did you are going way way too tight on that filter nut. Basically hold it down with your hand and about 4 clicks is all you need. In order to break the seal like that, the airbox has to be contacting the head, coolant tube or something to offer leverage around the filter outer edge to pull the throttle bodies up. Do a close examination of both boots. This means pulling the throtle bodies off and moving them over to the side.
Ron

 

Are you tightening it so much that it is managing to tweak the seal of the throttle bodies? Essentially creating a giant vacuum leak.

 

Listening to the last video, cycling the IAC, it sounded odd, do you have access to another VROD to compare sounds during the last few seconds when it's resetting?

You can see the pintle is in the ready position for cold start, then after you shut off the ignition main switch, the pintle moves to fully closed then backs up to ready cold start.

 

IAC is brand new.

Unfortunately I don't know anyone from V-Rod, Harley are quite rare in Poland

 

Is the bottom part of the air box getting pushed down into the throttle linkage?


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mine had just "gasket gone bad" between throttle body and airbox.

 

Bueno señores encontre las razones del aumento de RPM y el error P0505.
El problema es la tuerca que sujeta la tapa del filtro...

View attachment 603642

Cuanto más lo atornillo, aumentan las RPM y se enciende un error.
En este momento está jodido, solo para mantenerlo. sin resistencia

Pero no lo voy a dejar así, y ahora la pregunta es, ¿qué tiene en común este stick con RPM?
[/CITA]
Hola, lograste solucionar el problema ? Yo estoy con el mismo problema que la moto en frio funciona correctamente y ya cuando pasan unos minutos y calienta las rpm empiezan a subir y llego hasta 3500rpm. No se como solucionar, ya cambie el tps porque tenia un mal funcionamiento ahora seria revisar el IAC? igual hice una limpieza al cuerpo de aceleracion y note que estaba flojo un perno justo el rojo que se señala en la parte de arriba.

 

Just reviewed the posts and the comment on the filter nut has some merit here. There' are spots where the bottom box makes contact to the head and coolant pipe. Over tightening it can pull the throttle bodies upward, filter pushing the box down, possibly lifting the boot at the head contact or opening up a crack in the boot itself. Heat might amplify this from expansion. Could be some form of lower box alignment issue or now damaged (distorted) from long term over tightening. That wing nut only needs to be firm with about 3-4 clicks after contact, with hand pressing slightly down on the lid.
Ron