If install is included with the new bearings at the quoted $ I would let them do it!

 

:them: Don't fock around with cheap bearings... some guys on here have found out the hard way...

 

It's not. They're charging me for the install separately whether I buy from them or not.

 

You can check but may not find replacement bearings easier or cheaper. They're a special made specifically for HD and this application. The early 180 tired bikes had 1" axles, the bearings though were a metric bearing with the bore opened up from 25mm to 1" (25.4mm)
Easy to do when you as a manufacturer are ordering thousands of bearings.
A bearing house, Motion Industries, Dixie Bearing etc. will/may order them for you but will not have them in stock because they are a special. You will need the bearing number to order, not the HD part number but the bearing industry specific number which is generally etched on the edge of the bearing. Or the dimensions and description if you don't have the number, ID, OD, Width, number and type of seals etc.
If you get the HD number you can order at 20% discount from a few HD dealers online or via phone. Hale's in Ohio does this as does a couple others.

 

I'm okay with that if you guys think that's the route I should go. I just don't want to get rolled by the dealership. It's happened in the past...

 

A BMW wheel bearing costs $19 and change. You might find the same bearing for less money but would it be a decent quality bearing or some cheapie from China? I would buy the genuine part but install it myself.

I have had the BMW motorcycle's OEM bearings made by *** last 160,000 miles. The Street Rod's wheel bearings are much bigger and heavier duty than what BMW uses. Considering how long they should last I would not whine over a few bucks difference in price. If they are installed correctly (don't forget the inner spacer) with the correct outer spacers and torqued to spec you will likely never change them again.

 

Back to the point. If the bearings are good, there is no valid reason to not put them back in. You are being ripped off.

 

They said that when they pull them it messes up the bearings. I can tell you, I've pulled them from a car and never messed them up.

 

Depends on how they knock them out. Some can be real butchers.

 

Isn't the issue wth reusing bearings the fact that knocking them out (drift or slide puller) creates micro flats that become wear points?

 

You never re-use a bearing after it has been pulled. There is no way to remove them without damaging them.

Btw, we are talking all of $40 plus labor. You spend more on coffee drinks in a month.

 

:them:

Mike

 

Why were you having the bearings pulled if you hadn't planned on changing them?

 

I'm removing them for powder coat, not because I want/need to.

 

Anyone who can't pull a bearing without tearing it up ought not go near the bike in the first place.

Anyone ever get any education in the area of reliability statistics? Inspected used parts have a lower failure rate than new parts in just about any situation. Of course there are exceptions, but bearings isn't one of them.
In the aviaiton industry, bearings from jet engine shafts to wheels are cleaned, inspected, reused. You really think the reason is just to save money? Those who think it is cheap insurance are ill informed and pissing away money. That is unless you lack the technical knowedge needed to remove a bearing without destroying it.

 

Anyone who can't pull a bearing without tearing it up ought not go near the bike in the first place.
...

I can't imagine any way to pull a wheel bearing without damage.

The only available pull point is on the inner race with a bearing collet. When the bearing is pulled the side load will destroy the bearing.

How do you do pull a wheel bearing and not damage it?

 

Order from ronnieshd. like 17 bucks. buy all 5 (pulley bearing, too). I had a set fail 2 weeks ago. The rear had a weave that was quite exciting!
A manufacturer or a dealership won't re-install used bearings. I have, on many occasisions. Use the proper puller, and no damage. The right way is to never re-use them. Bolts, too, but, I do. Bolts actually stretch when torqued. The next application, the stretched bolt is not quite correct. When I was with GM, we regularly pitched a bolt in the trash when removed. Always used new. Always!
While it seems the dealer is trying to screw you, in this case, they are afraid of the liability. If you do it yourself, it is on you. The correct tool is 250 bucks. If this is a one time deal, just pay them. If you change wheels like I do, the tool is going to save you money. I also thought I could source the bearing cheaper. I was wrong. The bearing I had to buy was mechically exact, size, width, ID, OD, etc. and was 50 bucks. I had a trip, and needed a pulley bearing, and could not wait. Lesson learned: buy the HD bearing. You can save a few bucks buying online. Might equal shipping. Do all 5 - don't forget the pulley! Joe

 

My experience, using proper bearing pullers, is that heating the hub to 100 degrees C to pull the bearing ( you do this to expand the aluminum so you do not drag hub material out with the bearing, don't ask how I learned that lesson, it was expensive) you ruin the seals. I also don't trust the lube after heating it that much.

 

Philthy,

What do you know about All Balls wheel bearings for VROD, part OEM#: 25-1394.

Just wondering if anyone has used them and if they are better than Harley OEM wheel bearings?