- Bassanni road rage 2-into-1
- Cobra Fi2000 auto tuner
- topless K&N air filter

Before & after dyno numbers = Unknown / Unknown
Before & after real world seat of the pants feel = Good / Awesome!

 

Actually numbers don't mean a thing they're a reference at best unless your doing all out 1/4 mile racing. Typically changing to a more flowing intake/exhaust a good dyno tuner will find an extra 6 - 8 HP and 2 - 3 ft/lbs torque. But from what I've experienced most tuners just go for WOT HP numbers and leave you with crap for ridability performance in the lower RPM's. If you got a snappy response from the throttle at all RPM's ranges and it doesn't pop, fart or bog. Leave it alone and just ride it.

 

2012 F. TAB's w/ 1.75" baffles. Cerakoted head pipes. Amsoil filter. Topless w/ SE cutouts on lower airbox. Green motor-- tuned just after break-in period. TTS MasterTune and a dyno tech who knew how to use it.

Tuned for "real-world" rideability, NOT max hp/tq numbers.

But..... look at the curves on the chart.

Rides flawlessly. NO popping on decal that I can feel-- not even a little bit.

R.

 

Nice curve... (and I love all the Bozos on this forum who the first thing they do is raise the rev limiter to upmteen thousand rpm because they think the bike will be faster. You have a very nice curve, and it peaks just about where it should. There's really no reason to rev past 8600 if you want to go fast.)

 

The Dyno numbers won't tell you much unless you have before and after. A Dyno can accurately show gains if the environment is controlled.

Just asking for power numbers won't really help you.


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And even then they don't mean much.

 

I did but I think it got disappeared a while back. Haven't seen it lately.

Now that I think about it, the last time I saw a lot of my paperwork was right before the Wife went on a cleaning rampage in the office. Whoops.

R.


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