[Russ]

The two "spare" fuse positions have black leads on one side, which ends up where? I can't find any reference to how the spare fuses are wired in the service manual electrical schematics ('04).

In following HD's color code, black (BK) wires are (-) negative or chassis ground, which doesn't make sense in the fuse box. I can't measure any power on these leads with the key in either IGN or ACC. And with the bike in the house for the winter, I can't really start it to find out if it needs the engine to run.

The spare fuse positions seems to me the most logical place to tie in accessories, so knowing when they're powered and how much load they can handle would be useful. Does anyone know how these spare fuses are wired? Or better yet, has a HD schematic they can post? :coff:

Thanks :notworth:

 

[rjrivero]

I haven't looked real closely, but if the black wire is attached to one side, it is the ground. Use your volt meter to touch the ground, and the other side to the battery. If you regester 12 volts, then your ground is ready to go. Run your accessory negative side to the opposite side of that fuse and your accessory is in the circuit with the fuse.......

You may want to test the circuit on IGN and ACC to see when the juice is on in that circuit


I do agree with you and I would expect the fuse to be on the positive side though......

 

[Russ]

Black wires on spare fuses are not GROUND

The black leads on the spare fuses are definitely not chassis ground or negative (-). I measure an open circuit. They have to be juice, but nothing is measured in either IGN or ACC key positions (with engine off). Without a schematic, it's guesswork.

 

[WadeLovell]

The cute little pins that go on the unused side are still sitting in the parts department of your friendly HD dealer. Without them, you cannot use the spare fuses. Pull the, probably blue, ATF fues out of one of the spares and notice the open space where the second prong of the ATF fuse goes. SD HD just ordered 50 of them 858-616-6999. Shipping is, I hope, astronomical relative to the cost of the little pin. But this is HD which charges $1.72 for every defective lost exhaust screw. With luck, your dealer has them.

 

[rjrivero]

The black leads on the spare fuses are definitely not chassis ground or negative (-). I measure an open circuit. They have to be juice, but nothing is measured in either IGN or ACC key positions (with engine off). Without a schematic, it's guesswork.

I'll take a look at my manuals and such when I get home from work tomorrow night.....I'm sure we can figure it out.

 

[Russ]

The cute little pins that go on the unused side are still sitting in the parts department of your friendly HD dealer. Without them, you cannot use the spare fuses. .. .

Yes, that is definitely step No. 2 - sourcing the female inserts for the HD fuse holder. I have all winter to do that, marooned up here in Northern Mexico. Our Canadian Peso doesn't go far; everything is expensive anyway.

 

[DrHeathenScum]

the wire is just crimped on the terminal to make them easier to insert/remove... more than likely the wires are connected to both spare fuse terminals.

I got the extra terminals for my fuse block from the dealer... most parts guys can't figure out which terminals you need because there are at least three different ones listed: 2 different for the relays and one for the actual fuses.

I put in three separate fuses into the fuse block: Horns, Lighter, and Heated Gear Port and used the open FI system relay location to put a horn relay in (on a carb'd softail, with dual hella horns behind the transmission). I also made a new label for the cover with the new stuff on it.

all the terminals go in through the bottom of the fuse block.

 

[HogWild]

I could be wrong here, but as recall, there is a black wire that goes from one unused fuse to another unused fuse. It's connected to nothing else. As pointed out above, the other end of each of those fuses has no connector or wire.

 

[Russ]

BINGO! You're right!

I could be wrong here, but as recall, there is a black wire that goes from one unused fuse to another unused fuse. It's connected to nothing else. ... .

I tugged on the black wire and out it comes, simply looped between the two spare fuse terminals, just as you said. Now I'm in business.

Thanks Hogwild! :thumb:

 

[DrHeathenScum]

I could be wrong here, but as recall, there is a black wire that goes from one unused fuse to another unused fuse. It's connected to nothing else. As pointed out above, the other end of each of those fuses has no connector or wire.

that's what I was attempting to verbally excrete... better said HW.


I also found my stash...

fuse terminal: H-D P/N 72434-00

:thumb:

 

[SKIROD]

What? What??? What????? What just happened? Why in the world are we on this subject? It is a spare. Nothing else. This place is getting crazy. Later Ski.

 

[DrHeathenScum]

What? What??? What????? What just happened? Why in the world are we on this subject? It is a spare. Nothing else. This place is getting crazy. Later Ski.

ahhh, but it can be used for a fuse in a super-sano power installation for accessories, heated clothing hookup, etc!

 

[cbdane]

What? What??? What????? What just happened? Why in the world are we on this subject? It is a spare. Nothing else. This place is getting crazy. Later Ski.

Don't mess with progress Ski!

 

[SKIROD]

Don't mess with progress Ski!

Thats all fine an dandy,lause: But when you break it you always come crying to me!:banghead: I love progress. I like the ideas that have been accomplished on this forum. There are alot of good ones.lause: Also alot of bad ones.:rofl2: :whack: Just be careful! Later Ski.:cheers:

 

[HogWild]

...But when you break it you always come crying to me...

Ski, can I call you at 2:00am while I'm in the middle of the Sahara Desert and my clutch stops working, the steering head starts clunking, the IAT wire comes loose, and the shifter gets stiff? I've done major mods to all of these, and there's nobody else to call!

p.s. I've wired into the spare fuse location. Does that mean my warranty is invalid now?

 

[Russ]

Point well taken

What? What??? What????? What just happened? Why in the world are we on this subject? It is a spare. Nothing else. This place is getting crazy. Later Ski.

You're right. As it turns out, those fuses are truly "spare" - not connected to anything, after much confusion over mysterious black wires tucked inside the harness. HD could just as easily taped a baggie of spare fuses inside the box cover. Yet I was hoping they were spare "circuits" for optional accessories, a clean and safe fuse protection for add-ons. Nope.

It looks like there is little choice but to tap harness wires or straight to the battery, potentially messy and problematic, hiding in-line fuses and rattling loose connections. I would rather HD provide terminals for invariable add-on gadgetry. Wishful thinking on my part I suppose.

But you raise a good point about not disturbing what the factory never intended. Have all your fusing in one place – the fuse box – verses scattered throughout the frame keeping all mod’s external. No matter what you do, connections and splices have to be mechanically solid, well insulated and idiot proof as to not inadvertently drain the battery forgetting to switch something off. There is no kick-start.

Thanks Ski. Appreciate your advice.

 

[DrHeathenScum]

I would still use the spare fuse locations for my accessories... if you're going to hook up to the battery and put a fuse in, you might as well do it neat.

then again, my battery is about 2" from the fuse block and the main breaker is about 4"... I went off the load side of the main breaker and then to the fuse block, just to be safe. You have a Maxi-Fuse instead of a breaker... see if you can tap power there.

 

[Russ]

I agree

I would still use the spare fuse locations for my accessories... .

I think you're right. That's how HD commons or "daisy-chains" power among multiple fuse terminals, looping from terminal to terminal. Loop from the last terminal of whichever circuit you want (e.g. accessories) into a spare fuse location. I ordered 1/2-dozen fuse terminals (HD 72434-00) to do the job. That way all wires ran throughout the bike will be fuse-protected.

My loads are less than 100-mA, fairly light. Switching out turn signal and brake bulbs for LED's should ensure ample free capacity.

 

[ABQNMVROD]

What Stinking Warrantee?

p.s. I've wired into the spare fuse location. Does that mean my warranty is invalid now?

I heard the warranty is void if you take the bike out of the dealer's showroom. :deal: :sad:

 

[ABQNMVROD]

. . . It looks like there is little choice but to tap harness wires or straight to the battery, potentially messy and problematic, hiding in-line fuses and rattling loose connections. . . .

Doesn't the HD battery tender connect straight to the battery and have an inline glass fuse in a holder?

I prefer to use the mini inline fuse holders like radio shack Catalog #: 270-1237
http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...m/product/index.jsp?productId=2102783&cp=&kw=mini+fuse+holder&parentPage=search although you can also get them at PEP Boys, which is more convient for me than Radio Shack.

the inline fuse elements are encased and not hanging in open space like the elements in a glass fuse= less susceptible to damage from shock, vibration.