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BostonRidgeback

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Howdy, all.

I'm looking at rebuilding my front fork kits. After speaking with the Race Tech rep I learned from a note in his books stating that the FLEK kits may not fit models made earlier in the year. He cautioned me on buying one without knowing which one it was. The question is is there a way to find out through my VIN number? Or?
 
Howdy, all.

I'm looking at rebuilding my front fork kits. After speaking with the Race Tech rep I learned from a note in his books stating that the FLEK kits may not fit models made earlier in the year. He cautioned me on buying one without knowing which one it was. The question is is there a way to find out through my VIN number? Or?
Seal and bushing kits are the same as 09-17 Muscles and 2012- 17 Dx inverted forks, if that's what you are referring to rebuilding them. The R forks are a tad shorter and use different springs and the left damper is different.. No like the above mentioned inverted forks. The R fork is almost a carbon copy of the Sportster XR model internally. Length might be a tad different though. Seal and bushing kits are the same for all of them.
Yes beware of the listed parts at some of those sites, Racetech included as they are not always stated correctly.
Ron
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Seal and bushing kits are the same as 09-17 Muscles and 2012- 17 Dx inverted forks, if that's what you are referring to rebuilding them. The R forks are a tad shorter and use different springs and the left damper is different.. No like the above mentioned inverted forks. The R fork is almost a carbon copy of the Sportster XR model internally. Length might be a tad different though. Seal and bushing kits are the same for all of them.
Yes beware of the listed parts at some of those sites, Racetech included as they are not always stated correctly.
Ron


Will this one fit?
 
That says a kit to lower forks 1-2" - I would not use that on an R Model - Gold Valves yes but shorter lowering springs ? No. Also I don't see seals or bushings in that kit - take the forks to a close to you local Race Tech dealer and let them rebuild them with new bushings & seals, & install gold valves - they have all the tools, specs, Gold Valve installation jig and all that stuff. Trust me working on those USD forks is a giant PIA if you're not setup or familiar with it. Or ship them to RT if no local shop. Also look into the complete replacement damper rod cartridges - next price up but truly trick, then each fork leg does compression & rebound duties, fully external adjustment etc, requires a new fork cap for adjusters but when done one great set of custom forks - did I mention pricey ?
 
There are no gold valve fits for the VRSCR. That's a clue to beware of that kit. The R uses one damper only in the left fork and while a valve kit can be had, it requires a disassembly of the OEM damper to install different discs. A real pain in the ass. You are likely further ahead to tune damper function with trying different oil viscosities. Lighter oil, more reactive, thicher oil less reactive or sluggish. That kit looks to be for conventional forks not the inverted version based on mention of gold valves.. If you are looking for a better spring then OEM, look into these. The USA outfit is EPM Performance Imports, Inc.
They do what they claim.
Ron
 
There are no gold valve fits for the VRSCR. That's a clue to beware of that kit. The R uses one damper only in the left fork and while a valve kit can be had, it requires a disassembly of the OEM damper to install different discs. A real pain in the ass. You are likely further ahead to tune damper function with trying different oil viscosities. Lighter oil, more reactive, thicher oil less reactive or sluggish. That kit looks to be for conventional forks not the inverted version based on mention of gold valves.. If you are looking for a better spring then OEM, look into these. The USA outfit is EPM Performance Imports, Inc.
They do what they claim.
Ron
Totally agree. That kit is definitely for conventional forks.
 
2006 Harley VRSCR Street Rod
Change
CALCULATE YOUR SPRING RATES
and DISPLAY AVAILABLE SPRINGS
Front Fork ProductsRear Shock Products
FRONT INSTRUCTIONS and BASIC SETUP
Data
Price
Qty

Instructions - Gold Valve Compression or Emulator Valving
Click Here


Fork Oil (USF05=5w, OSFO 10=10w, etc.)
USF05 2 qt/liter required
$29.99
0
Spring Side
Right leg - spring only


Oil Level
150 mm


Instructions - Fork Spring Installation
Click Here


Front Spring Preload, Actual - Recommended
(stock height/not lowered)
23 mm


Long Soft Top-Out
"Y" requires Relaxed Preload Setup
See Fork Spring Installation Instructions (above)
N


FRONT FORK PRODUCTS
Data
Price
Qty

Fork Brand, Diameter (mm), Type
(U-upside down, C-conventional, T-Telelever, D-Duolever)
Showa 43U Single Cartridge


Stock Front Spring Rate
0.69 kg/mm (stock)


Comments
Left leg cartridge, right leg - spring only. Early models use Emulators, remove fork caps to check for cartridge.
Fork Springs & Kits
Data
Price
Qty

Front Spring Series (pair)
Calculate Spring Rates and Display Available Springs
FRSP S3827
$149.99

Front Valving Kits
Data
Price
Qty

Front Gold Valve Kit
(Kits ending in "C" include Compression AND Rebound/Mid-Valve Gold Valves)
(Kits NOT ending in "C" are Compression Only)
FMGV S2050C
$199.99
0
Front Suspension Labor (at Race Tech)
Data
Price
Qty

Rebuild Front Suspension (labor only)
LSFORB2
$225.00
0
Install Gold Valves and Rebuild Front Suspension (labor only)
LSFORV2
$225.00
0
Suspension Service Request Form
Please include when sending components to Race Tech
Race Tech Centers
Race Tech Centers are available to do quality work that may be closer to you
2006 Harley VRSCR Street Rod


Fork Maintenance and Repair Parts
Data
Price
Qty

Fork Oil (USF05=5w, OSFO 10=10w, etc.)
USF05 2 qt/liter required
$29.99
0
Inner Fork Bushings (pair)
FMBI 43201 P
$29.99
0
Outer Fork Bushings (pair)
FMBO 43152 P
$21.98
0
Fork Seals (pair)
FSOS 43 P
$21.98
0
Dust Seals (pair)
FSDS 43 P
$34.99
0
Damping Rod Bolt Copper Washer (each)
HMWC 0813
$4.99
0
Replacement Fork Tubes by TNK
Data
Price
Qty

Chrome Fork Tube (each)
Call


Fork Tools
Data
Price
Qty

Fork Seal Driver (required if replacing seals or bushings)

There's a note above that early model forks use emulators, remove fork cap to check for cartridges ?
Kit P/N FMGV S2050C ends in C so apparently they're saying they install a compression & rebound Gold Valve in the left fork cartridge ?
Reading the installation instructions link they provide would also explain the emulator vs gold valve and rebound valve mystery.
A phone call to them would clear that up as well, but they do real great work, come highly recommended and are properly priced - whatever it is they can handle it. I've thought of next trip up to the mountains from FL. I could stop at their north Atlanta shop and get the one day rebuild and valve service and go test them out in the twisties the next day - of course if any internal damage or fork tubes are bent or undersize it could extend the visit so that's a big chance to take on a vacation riding trip -
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
There are no gold valve fits for the VRSCR. That's a clue to beware of that kit. The R uses one damper only in the left fork and while a valve kit can be had, it requires a disassembly of the OEM damper to install different discs. A real pain in the ass. You are likely further ahead to tune damper function with trying different oil viscosities. Lighter oil, more reactive, thicher oil less reactive or sluggish. That kit looks to be for conventional forks not the inverted version based on mention of gold valves.. If you are looking for a better spring then OEM, look into these. The USA outfit is EPM Performance Imports, Inc.
[URL
2006 Harley VRSCR Street Rod
Change
CALCULATE YOUR SPRING RATES
and DISPLAY AVAILABLE SPRINGS
Front Fork ProductsRear Shock Products
FRONT INSTRUCTIONS and BASIC SETUP
Data
Price
Qty

Instructions - Gold Valve Compression or Emulator Valving
Click Here


Fork Oil (USF05=5w, OSFO 10=10w, etc.)
USF05 2 qt/liter required
$29.99
0
Spring Side
Right leg - spring only


Oil Level
150 mm


Instructions - Fork Spring Installation
Click Here


Front Spring Preload, Actual - Recommended
(stock height/not lowered)
23 mm


Long Soft Top-Out
"Y" requires Relaxed Preload Setup
See Fork Spring Installation Instructions (above)
N


FRONT FORK PRODUCTS
Data
Price
Qty

Fork Brand, Diameter (mm), Type
(U-upside down, C-conventional, T-Telelever, D-Duolever)
Showa 43U Single Cartridge


Stock Front Spring Rate
0.69 kg/mm (stock)


Comments
Left leg cartridge, right leg - spring only. Early models use Emulators, remove fork caps to check for cartridge.
Fork Springs & Kits
Data
Price
Qty

Front Spring Series (pair)
Calculate Spring Rates and Display Available Springs
FRSP S3827
$149.99

Front Valving Kits
Data
Price
Qty

Front Gold Valve Kit
(Kits ending in "C" include Compression AND Rebound/Mid-Valve Gold Valves)
(Kits NOT ending in "C" are Compression Only)
FMGV S2050C
$199.99
0
Front Suspension Labor (at Race Tech)
Data
Price
Qty

Rebuild Front Suspension (labor only)
LSFORB2
$225.00
0
Install Gold Valves and Rebuild Front Suspension (labor only)
LSFORV2
$225.00
0
Suspension Service Request Form
Please include when sending components to Race Tech
Race Tech Centers
Race Tech Centers are available to do quality work that may be closer to you
2006 Harley VRSCR Street Rod


Fork Maintenance and Repair Parts
Data
Price
Qty

Fork Oil (USF05=5w, OSFO 10=10w, etc.)
USF05 2 qt/liter required
$29.99
0
Inner Fork Bushings (pair)
FMBI 43201 P
$29.99
0
Outer Fork Bushings (pair)
FMBO 43152 P
$21.98
0
Fork Seals (pair)
FSOS 43 P
$21.98
0
Dust Seals (pair)
FSDS 43 P
$34.99
0
Damping Rod Bolt Copper Washer (each)
HMWC 0813
$4.99
0
Replacement Fork Tubes by TNK
Data
Price
Qty

Chrome Fork Tube (each)
Call


Fork Tools
Data
Price
Qty

Fork Seal Driver (required if replacing seals or bushings)

There's a note above that early model forks use emulators, remove fork cap to check for cartridges ?
Kit P/N FMGV S2050C ends in C so apparently they're saying they install a compression & rebound Gold Valve in the left fork cartridge ?
Reading the installation instructions link they provide would also explain the emulator vs gold valve and rebound valve mystery.
A phone call to them would clear that up as well, but they do real great work, come highly recommended and are properly priced - whatever it is they can handle it. I've thought of next trip up to the mountains from FL. I could stop at their north Atlanta shop and get the one day rebuild and valve service and go test them out in the twisties the next day - of course if any internal damage or fork tubes are bent or undersize it could extend the visit so that's a big chance to take on a vacation riding trip -
I spoke with the race Tech Guy yesterday and he had no idea of knowing about the differences other than the note he had in his books. I'm not sure how to tell if I have an earlier production or later production bike. How difficult is it to remove this cap or whatever you call it?


Are you saying not to go with EPM? I'm a little confused now. Not that that's a difficult task. This is the kit I'm considering now. However, I'm also looking to order the complete rebuild kit to go with it. The seals bushing Etc. I was told once that they used to be a sticker or something on the bottom of the seat that would say the month the bike was made in. Would be some kind of damn miracle that the sticker stayed on for 18 fucking years though LOL!

 
BRB - What's your build date ? mine is 5/05 ( for an '06 Model R ) it's on the left frame brace rail decal above the fwd. cylinder head - if you're after mine you most likely have the same as me left cartridge fork, right spring & oil only fork.

Unless you're going to try to rebuild and install the kit in your forks yourself ( not recommended, just for the tooling and experience required alone ) - I would not buy any kit unless you consult Race Tech first. I would use Race Tech to both provide the proper kit and rebuild the forks for you.

If you don't need a fork rebuild and just want to do an oil change & new springs you can get a big friend to help back you up to loosen the fork cap with a socket on a speed handle that has the large suicide knob on the top end so you can both push down on it - yes it's a two monkey fk job - break both caps loose on the ground then jack the bike up on a lift, nose wheel off the ground, and remove the caps while pushing down hard on the speed handle to avoid stripping the threads and getting the cap ejected into your face then you can take the forks off the bike, dump oil, ( measure to see if it's close to H-D refill amount to be sure you got it all out ) then install forks back on the bike -

Now refill oil, bleed out air, check oil level, put new springs in and install caps. Lightly torque upper triple clamp pinch bolts bc they don't have 100% contact like the bottom ones, reassemble front end and you're golden if the springs and oil viscosity were correct. I did that using stock springs and 5wt Bel Ray oil and they work great. You can even push the tubes up in the triples 10-20 MM to lower the front end and make it steer better. Best of Luck with it !
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
BRB - What's your build date ? mine is 5/05 ( for an '06 Model R ) it's on the left frame brace rail decal above the fwd. cylinder head - if you're after mine you most likely have the same as me left cartridge fork, right spring & oil only fork.

Unless you're going to try to rebuild and install the kit in your forks yourself ( not recommended, just for the tooling and experience required alone ) - I would not buy any kit unless you consult Race Tech first. I would use Race Tech to both provide the proper kit and rebuild the forks for you.

If you don't need a fork rebuild and just want to do an oil change & new springs you can get a big friend to help back you up to loosen the fork cap with a socket on a speed handle that has the large suicide knob on the top end so you can both push down on it - yes it's a two monkey fk job - break both caps loose on the ground then jack the bike up on a lift, nose wheel off the ground, and remove the caps while pushing down hard on the speed handle to avoid stripping the threads and getting the cap ejected into your face then you can take the forks off the bike, dump oil, ( measure to see if it's close to H-D refill amount to be sure you got it all out ) then install forks back on the bike -

Now refill oil, bleed out air, check oil level, put new springs in and install caps. Lightly torque upper triple clamp pinch bolts bc they don't have 100% contact like the bottom ones, reassemble front end and you're golden if the springs and oil viscosity were correct. I did that using stock springs and 5wt Bel Ray oil and they work great. You can even push the tubes up in the triples 10-20 MM to lower the front end and make it steer better. Best of Luck with it !
one of my Fork Sills is leaking. I figured while I'm having that done I can have a kid thrown in there that's better suited for absorbing bumps and harder breaking. Progressive seems like a good company. Theor rear shocks are solid. What tool are you using to pop the cap off the top of your forks? I tried a small flathead screwdriver and it started to dang it up a little bit. Here's a picture of my info stamped on the side of my bike. Looks like it's 12 of 05. My title says 06 but I get it.
 

Attachments

Looks like it's 12 of 05. My title says 06 but I get it.
Most if not all manufacturers (including cars and trucks), have the next years models come out months prior to the actual year. Fords used to be a nightmare and you had to know the month of build when you went looking for parts, because they would change parts at different times within the same model year.
 
If you want your suspension the best it can be. This is it. I've used Traxxion products on many bikes. Contact Max. They don't get any better or more knowledgeable.
 
If you want your suspension the best it can be. This is it. I've used Traxxion products on many bikes. Contact Max. They don't get any better or more knowledgeable.
Agree it's the best it can be but at a cost.
Ron
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
If you want your suspension the best it can be. This is it. I've used Traxxion products on many bikes. Contact Max. They don't get any better or more knowledgeable.
If I only had 1,500 bucks to sell at this problem LOL. To be clear I'm not knocking the product it looks and sounds amazing.
 
What tool are you using to pop the cap off the top of your forks? I tried a small flathead screwdriver and it started to dang it up a little bit.
Last time I removed them, if I remember right I loosened the top two triple clamp allen bolts and came in thru the vertical slot in the back of the triple with a strip of metal that I used to pop the cap up from underneath the back side of the cap to avoid damaging it - there's a round spring in a groove that retains the cap so you have to push it up from below and push the spring fwd. to compress the spring and hold it there while you work the cap up - some alcohol can help the spring to slide a bit and unlike a lubricant, it will evaporate so it doesn't get between the fork tubes and triple clamps and loosen the tight grip they need.
It's probably $ 500 ( plus the springs & kit if you want to do them ) to reseal the USD forks - you can toss $ 500 - $ 2000 at those forks real fast. If not leaking bad clean the dirt out of the bottom area of the seals with some brake cleaner & a folded paper shop towel, going around the seal to fork tube junction and then blow it out with shop air - this will keep you riding until you have the $ and time to do it right - ask me how I know - Oh and wipe the oil film off the fork tube every ride to prevent dust & dirt from sticking to them and getting back in the seals, until you get them resealed -
 
In case you R guys haven't noticed, do not torque the top triple clamp bolt to spec. Do the bottom of course to spec but the top only maybe 20'lbs after the rest are all done. There is no tube support for the top bolt and you will angle the tree hole. Muscle and DX inverted only have one bolt on the top so it's fine. Harley designer really fucked up in that area for that top bolt, not realizing what it can damage. You'll see what I mean when in there.
Ron
 
In case you R guys haven't noticed, do not torque the top triple clamp bolt to spec
Absolutely right - I mentioned that earlier in the thread, however if you push the tubes up in the triples 10-20 MM for better steering you can increase the torque of the upper allen bolts a bit due to more tube to clamp overlap. But the caps no longer can be used so kinda fuggly. The R has really strong heavy clamps but like you say Ron if you torque per the Service manual you're really doing yourself a disservice - you can warp the upper clamps out of round and even crack them. One overactive engineer / designer sped ahead with the flat top cool looking triple clamps but never considered the ride height requiring the tubes to be pushed down in the triples - woops guess form over function during H-D development strikes again ! ( Shh - Quiet don't tell the service manual writers to lower upper bolt torques either - )
 
Yes, works well for the worker too! a couple of shots before, during and after helps the situation move along. LOL!
It could estimate out anywhere from a one beer job to two, three, a six pack, if it's a real bitch job 12 pack or all that with shots poured from a fifth of Bourbon Whiskey - of course if the job gets done and done properly ? That depends on the mechanics resistance to alcohol and how many days you got - remember it's futile to be brutile on the machine !
 
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