[speakerfritz]

2005 vrod se with a little less than 2000 miles on it. the 2005 se has a 1250 engine and some porting or other mods to the intakes. other than that, bike is stock. battery replaced two years ago and is certainly a possible suspect. oil has been changed within the last 500 miles.

situation is after fueling up at a sunoco, bike turns off in the low idle range and once off not able to start un assisted.

if I use a water sprayer and spray a few puffs of fuel in the intake stacks the bike will start and if I continue to do so until the bike stabilizes I am able to hop on it and drive away.

drove a few miles homeward from my stranded location and thought I would make it home till I tried to pay the toll and the bike quit upon reaching low idle.

bike is about 4 blocks from the house now and will be emptying an enclosed trailer to recover it.

my thoughs are either there is water in the recently added fuel, or a weak battery that voltage drops to low and ecm power off.

to get the bike home I had to charge the battery at 2ah for 3 hrs. so with a 12ah battery means the battery was half dead from trying to restart during last engine cut off.

so plan is to drain the fuel and get some ethonal free gas and replace the battery with a new one.

at medium rpms (3 - 4 K range) bike runs fine and seems normal.

so what do you think...other gotchas with the 2005 SE vrod.

will check back in a few...going to unload my trailer.

thanks

 

[Hoffa65]

Check batt voltage off
Then with key on motor off
Then start motor check at idle
Then check at 3-4k to see if alt is putting out and regulator is working correctly

 

[LL Cool K]

Check your codes. I'll bet you have PO 341 and PO505. Just clear the codes and it'll probably be fine. If your battery ever got too low, those codes pop up and the bike is hard to start, and won't idle.

Here's the procedure: http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3&highlight=diagnostic+trouble+codes

 

[RustyG]

If the battery is more than 4-5 years old you might as well replace it. Its been sitting to long. If not get the battery on a charger overnight. Then take it to Autozone or Advance or NAPA and have them load test it. That will tell you if the battery is good or bad.
You may just have IAC problems (Idle Air Control).

 

[TwinOaks]

2005 vrod se with a little less than 2000 miles on it.

It needs to be ridden.

 

[speakerfritz]

Check batt voltage off
Then with key on motor off
Then start motor check at idle
Then check at 3-4k to see if alt is putting out and regulator is working correctly

easy enough...since my battery is two years old will be replacing it anyway, then run the test indicated.

 

[speakerfritz]

Check your codes. I'll bet you have PO 341 and PO505. Just clear the codes and it'll probably be fine. If your battery ever got too low, those codes pop up and the bike is hard to start, and won't idle.

Here's the procedure: http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3&highlight=diagnostic+trouble+codes

thanks...I looked at the link and found the code recovery proceedure...but did not see the master code list....I'll google around for it.

so what I am reading here is that if the codes are not cleared, recharged battery or new battery will result in the same spin up but no start unless you spray gas in the intake with a water bottle and once started normal operation until rpm's drop to idle range...then shuts off.

so these indicated codes regulate low rpm fuel pressure?

 

[speakerfritz]

If the battery is more than 4-5 years old you might as well replace it. Its been sitting to long. If not get the battery on a charger overnight. Then take it to Autozone or Advance or NAPA and have them load test it. That will tell you if the battery is good or bad.
You may just have IAC problems (Idle Air Control).

battery is two years old...but I'll replace it anyway...there not that expensive.

 

[LL Cool K]

thanks...I looked at the link and found the code recovery proceedure...but did not see the master code list....I'll google around for it.

so what I am reading here is that if the codes are not cleared, recharged battery or new battery will result in the same spin up but no start unless you spray gas in the intake with a water bottle and once started normal operation until rpm's drop to idle range...then shuts off.

so these indicated codes regulate low rpm fuel pressure?

Before you waste money buying a battery, first check for the codes. If the P is blinking, follow the procedure by holding the button down for 5 seconds.. I'm betting the codes that I mentioned are there. Replacing the battery will do nothing, and your problem has nothing to do with low rpm fuel pressure. You'll put in a new battery and if you haven't cleared the codes, the same thing is going to happen.

Check for the codes first. In fact, do a search on PO505... my bike did the same thing recently because of a drained battery, and I had the same issue you have. Clearing the codes fixed it.

 

[speakerfritz]

Before you waste money buying a battery, first check for the codes. If the P is blinking, follow the procedure by holding the button down for 5 seconds.. I'm betting the codes that I mentioned are there. Replacing the battery will do nothing, and your problem has nothing to do with low rpm fuel pressure. You'll put in a new battery and if you haven't cleared the codes, the same thing is going to happen.

Check for the codes first. In fact, do a search on PO505... my bike did the same thing recently because of a drained battery, and I had the same issue you have. Clearing the codes fixed it.

Yes, plan on playing the clear the codes game...before I do anything...thanks for the tip.

 

[JRROD]

thanks...I looked at the link and found the code recovery proceedure...but did not see the master code list

http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2

 

[speakerfritz]

codes retrieved

B1004 Current Fuel sender low 2.11 DTCB1004/B1005
P0113 Current IAT sensor open/high 4.21 DTCP0112, P0113

cleared them...bike does not stat.

sprayed a couple of puffs of fuel to stacks....bike starts right up..hop on it and drive it aound and runs normal If do not let the bike go down to idle.

if I let it goto idle....doesn't start unless I repeat puff procedure.


so the riddle.....fuel pump works good enough to run the bike...but startup fuel is not happening.

I checked the connection to the plug n the intake cover and it is fine...not sure if he plug is air temp sensor or the IAT sensor....maybe that is defective?

anyone know of a carb it that will work on a vrod. cant be stuck on the upper level of the verrizano narrows bridge pushng the odometer button trying to see what the codes are.

certainly do not want to carry a sprayer of gas where ever I am in case ecm wants to play stomp the rider.

 

[LL Cool K]

Check for codes again. The plug is the IAT (air temp sensor).

 

[speakerfritz]

same 2 codes...

 

[LL Cool K]

I was doing a search here on the codes. I suggest you do the same. There are solutions from other's experiences here. From a cursory glance, I'd check all the connectors for the fuel pump, make sure you have no vacuum leaks. Try pulling the maxi-fuse and reinsert to re-cycle everything and try again. I gotta run, or I'd look around some more for you.

Maybe someone else can chime in....

 

[speakerfritz]

Thanks LL Cool K.

I have 2 other bikes I can use for now so the vrod will go under the knife

 

[Hoffa65]

After the check engine light goes out open throttle a bit and try and crank engine see if it starts. If it does its idle control valve related. My guess. But should throw a code for that.

 

[RustyG]

Go and borrow a Fuel line pressure testing gauge from Autozone or Advance auto parts and check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail. There is a shrader valve on the right side of the fuel rail, between the jugs, that the gauge will screw on to. Pressure should be 55-62 PSI at idle and at rpms. Pressure should remain for a period of time after turning the ignition off
Clearing codes will do nothing to resolve the issue. Attached is a list of current codes.
If the codes keep coming back find out what is causing them. The codes are not causing the problem. They indicate what the problem is.

 

[TwinOaks]

Clearing codes will do nothing to resolve the issue. Attached is a list of current codes.
If the codes keep coming back find out what is causing them. The codes are not causing the problem. They indicate what the problem is.

Agreed, and buy a new battery either way. They have a life and your battery's life is over.

 

[LL Cool K]

Clearing codes will do nothing to resolve the issue. Attached is a list of current codes.
If the codes keep coming back find out what is causing them. The codes are not causing the problem. They indicate what the problem is.

That's what I used to think too until last week. I had left my security system on with the pager for about a week and it killed my battery. Once I got the bike started, it acted just like his. It wouldn't start, but after twisting the throttle, it eventually did, but would not idle at all. I rode the bike around a short distance to charge up the battery and sat there revving it at stops so it wouldn't shut off at idle. When I got back home, I checked the codes that I had, and did a search here on the 2 codes that I was getting, and there was a post from Max (I believe) that said after the battery had gone dead and when you tried to start it, something would happen with the crank position sensor. Once you cleared the codes, the bike would start. So I did. And it started and has been running fine since. I did nothing else but clear the codes.