My bike is an 02 with a born on date of about May of 02. I have had no new flashes done to it except when in for my first thousand mile service the tech said he gave me a new program out that he said helps with the idling, I did not notice a difference. Anyway I have purchased a pair of stock pipes & have had them V-Modded, and have a SE filter. I have been waiting for the USB PC to come avalable but they keep telling me two weeks more. I want to get riding my bike as the weather is now great however I don't want to screw anything up because I am running to lean. Is there a base map that will work with my bike that I can just download from somewhere? There are no shops with dino's in my area. My whole reason for going with the V-Mods was because I wanted something louder. I have read through many past posts have found nothing with my setup to see what others are doing so I thought I would ask the pro's. I would like to do the 28 tooth pully some day if they come out with a six speed tranny for us so I am thinking the RT may be the way to go. My thoughts are should I just purchase the race tuner?
Your help please with my setup......
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Do you have the Screaming Eagle/ K&N Air filter? If you get that along with your modded stock pipes, you will need the stage I flash done at your dealer. Or you can get a R/T and do it all yourself, including the recalibration of the speed-o for the 28 tooth.
Mike
Mike
Mr. King you say that if I go the route of the race tuner that I would need a good tuner with a dino. Is there no base maps avalable that would get me as close as a base map does with a PCIIIr, because if I get the PC I will not be able to get it on a dino either.......
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Get the PCIII .
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Not to add any more confusion to the mix but the Techlusion box, for a lot less than the PCIII, will correct the flatspot without loading maps or getting it dynoed. The setup procedure is "do it yourself" and will make the bike run right. That doesn't address the 28T pulley issue bit there are alternatives to that as well.
If you're computer savy and want to spend some quality time bonding with your ECM you can get the RT and load the base map for SE slipon pipes. That will get you close and you can tweak with the seat of you pants after that. It also allows for the 28T pulley correction. It's also possible that there will be some RT maps available from others with access to dynos in the not too distant future that you could take advantage of.
Of course there's the PCIII option, I think there will be a few on the market after the recent RT group buy
Just throwing out other options.
If you're computer savy and want to spend some quality time bonding with your ECM you can get the RT and load the base map for SE slipon pipes. That will get you close and you can tweak with the seat of you pants after that. It also allows for the 28T pulley correction. It's also possible that there will be some RT maps available from others with access to dynos in the not too distant future that you could take advantage of.
Of course there's the PCIII option, I think there will be a few on the market after the recent RT group buy
Just throwing out other options.
mjw930 thanks for your help I can get myself around a computer pretty decent. I am also a decent mechanic. So I take it that the SE slip ons are close to my stock v-mods and by loading that map it will get me close enough to the point that I can drive my bike & not worry about any engine damage and allow me to further tweak with it right?
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"Not to add any more confusion to the mix"
Get the RT. If you can tune or if you have a good tuner. The available maps ARE your base maps. 105GY001 on your case. Since you don't change the headers just tune the AFR table and leave the VE's alone. If you change the tubing length of your headers THEN you really need a dyno and a tuner who understands RT for real. Equal length headers are best and same heigt velocity stacks will not fully solve any problem, it will make it more complex but better in the end. Like the Kaz said "individual cylinder tuning is the key".
If you feel a flat spot you may really notice it with dataloging if too lean, you can make it dissapear without a dyno in no time. If your tuner does not understand RT and you do just have him run it with the gas analyser and tune yourself at home a couple of times then after a while you do it right there at the dyno yourself. The others are so very easy that if the guy knows the dyno well he'll probably do a good job. In the end and depending on what you want the RT way can get very expensive very quick.
Get the RT. If you can tune or if you have a good tuner. The available maps ARE your base maps. 105GY001 on your case. Since you don't change the headers just tune the AFR table and leave the VE's alone. If you change the tubing length of your headers THEN you really need a dyno and a tuner who understands RT for real. Equal length headers are best and same heigt velocity stacks will not fully solve any problem, it will make it more complex but better in the end. Like the Kaz said "individual cylinder tuning is the key".
If you feel a flat spot you may really notice it with dataloging if too lean, you can make it dissapear without a dyno in no time. If your tuner does not understand RT and you do just have him run it with the gas analyser and tune yourself at home a couple of times then after a while you do it right there at the dyno yourself. The others are so very easy that if the guy knows the dyno well he'll probably do a good job. In the end and depending on what you want the RT way can get very expensive very quick.
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