[2003 VRod Rider]

Or the same company and ebay has this.

8029K BALL BEARING

8029K BALL BEARING

www.supplierparts.com

8027K, a bit tougher to locate on this side of the pond but could be matched up with dimensions from a supplier, possibly.

Ron

Ron, the website supplierparts.com has disappeared. Over a month since I made my order. They haven't responded. They have three websites and all are either non-existent now or are a malicious link. They have three e-mail addresses. Bogus. I had to escalate a PayPal dispute. If you know of anywhere else that I can source bearing 8029K times two I would appreciate a link.

Manchester H-D (Across the pond) had 8027K times two listed, but on back order. I have confirmation from their website that the item is on order. They e-mailed me with a request for clarification on the order...that I would like to proceed with the charge as it was on back order. I agreed and am awaiting. All the other bearings you listed have arrived and are on my shelf.

Thank you!

Sean

 

[mukle]

Ron, the website supplierparts.com has disappeared. Over a month since I made my order. They haven't responded. They have three websites and all are either non-existent now or are a malicious link. They have three e-mail addresses. Bogus. I had to escalate a PayPal dispute. If you know of anywhere else that I can source bearing 8029K times two I would appreciate a link.

If this is going to trouble you big time and you do not find any bearing closer to you I can sell you my spare 8029K. But please check availability in US first. Shoot me pm if there is zero availability.

 

[mukle]

Lock up and the clutch is now armed and engine is ready for the chassis. I will start with Barnett's +40% static springs. Slight 0.040" shimmings. There is so many variables more now so it will take some time to get used to with this lock up. However I have good feeling about his.

 

[2003 VRod Rider]

If this is going to trouble you big time and you do not find any bearing closer to you I can sell you my spare 8029K. But please check availability in US first. Shoot me pm if there is zero availability.

I need two. But I will try to source them locally. Thank you for the offer.

 

[mukle]

Ok. Great

Hope that you noticed that there is mismatch in the dealers spare lists. Only one 8029K (NSK HTFHR6206) is actually needed. It is input shaft (clutch side) bearing. Two smaller support bearings 8027K are located at both shaft ends. Take a look at pic I put earlier in this topic.

 

[2003 VRod Rider]

mukle: could you please spec these 8029K bearings? I am going to try a bearing manufacturer and they might need actual sizes rather than cross referencing a part number. Thank you!

Sean

 

[2003 VRod Rider]

The bearing company I have contacted has bearings 6206 which are 30mm ID x 62mm OD x 16mm Thickness but I'm not sure if this matches exactly.

 

[2003 VRod Rider]

Ok. Great

Hope that you noticed that there is mismatch in the dealers spare lists. Only one 8029K (NSK HTFHR6206) is actually needed. It is input shaft (clutch side) bearing. Two smaller support bearings 8027K are located at both shaft ends. Take a look at pic I put earlier in this topic.

mukle:
I am seeing this in the microfiche. Two 8027K. One at the end of each opposite end and two 8029K. One at at the end of each other opposite end. Is this an error in the microfiche?

Sean

 

[mukle]

Yes do not kill the messenger but I think there has to be error in the lists. However I am looking at 2006 and above lists.

I think correct bearings are (from clutch side to opposite):

Input shaft: 1 pcs 8029K and 1 pcs 8027K
Output shaft: 1pcs 8027K and 1pcs 8028K

Take also look at Karzzas topic pic. There you can see that pre 2006 are the same.

 

[2003 VRod Rider]

Ah yes I see there is a bit of a difference in the look of the size in the microfiche but I thought that was just due to angle and depth. OK so I have two 8027K on order from Manchester H-D. Now I have to get One 8028K and One 8029K. Makes sense given the part numbers...there would have been a jump between the two...do you happen to have specs on the sizes? I'll need to cross-reference them...

 

[mukle]

Sure

8029K: 28x62x16 (HTFHR6206) without seals
8027K: 20x47x14 steel seal on one side
8028K: 25x62x24 two row ball bearing

All bearings are with dowel pin. Dimension are in millimeters (Inner diameter x Outer Diameter x Length)

 

[2003 VRod Rider]

THANK YOU!!!!!!

Edit: I called back the bearing company and they don't have any HTFHR designation 6206 and their bearing is 30x not 28x.

On the 8028K they have a 25x62x25 (maybe it was x23) either way, not right. She said Harley often makes proprietary items like that to keep people from paying $6 for a $65 bearing.

 

[mukle]

The bearing company I have contacted has bearings 6206 which are 30mm ID x 62mm OD x 16mm Thickness but I'm not sure if this matches exactly.

Regular 6206 is not right. Inner diameter is wrong. This is bit special variant and hard to find. Try with HTFHR6206

 

[2003 VRod Rider]

I FOUND THEM!!!! I couldn't believe it but 8029K AND 8028K were available on eBay, new. I'm set! Thank you so much, so much, so much for your efforts mukle.

 

[mukle]

Edit: I called back the bearing company and they don't have any HTFHR designation 6206 and their bearing is 30x not 28x.

On the 8028K they have a 25x62x25 (maybe it was x23) either way, not right. She said Harley often makes proprietary items like that to keep people from paying $6 for a $65 bearing.

Yep. Absolutely easiest way is to stick with Harley OEM 802xK parts but when they are completely extincted something has to be done. I did it hard way now even there could be some stock still.

 

[mukle]

Let the Journey begin. Not the prettiest but these boots are made for walking.

Tubes around the turbo are for the initial adjustment only. Want to monitor oil pressure, back pressure and egt.

Auxiliary ecm is disconnected and will be there little later. It is for the quick shifter, launch control and boost controlling purposes. Have to clean wirings little a bit.

 

[Knut J]

Sweet set up! MCX plenum?
It seems that the Finne has been a bit busy lately..?
You need to update us on how the clutch set up works on the street.

 

[mukle]

Yes it is MCX plenum. I sold my K&M motorsport plenum before I built this first time 2017 for turbo. Of course I have still design documents and can make another copy some day but MCX is very good and no reason to do that. Perhaps weight could be one reason but K&M is bit heavy as well. Perhaps K&M ver2 someday. Let see.

You nailed it right. Basically I have lived in my garage past weeks. We have had long weekend off from the work and could finish this rebuild. It is more straight forward when there is only assembly to do. No new exhaust manifolds etc time consuming.

I will keep posted how the new lock up clutch is operating but the new camming strategy is very interesting to me. At least idle is smooth and it appears to react throttle very promptly. Couldn't take her out today since it was raining here and I have not registered it for streets yet. It can be done in the web and it is not problem.

 

[mukle]

First test drives are behind and so far so good. Clutch is slipping with 5th gear 7Krpm and 7.3psi of boost. Have to increase some weight to lock up arms. There is now two washers per arm and I will put two more. Otherwise clutch is performing like a charm. It is so nice when clutch lever is easy to pull and engages smoothly in the range. I really hope that these red Barnett's +40% static springs are enough. Last year there were Hayabusa +125% springs with AIM lock up and my left hand was numb after longer trips in city traffic. However it was not so hopeless compared to 2 extra disc Barnett clutch without lock up. That is pure agony. Finding neutral was almost impossible while engine running.

I should still take easy and not sport too early. I have planned to drive 400-500 miles to break in the engine. Same time do some autotuning shit. It looks like it is leaning now at cruising speeds. This is good direction what comes to fuel economy. After break in I will change oil and filter. Then I will raise boost to 14psi and see how it is really going. Dyno later this year to see what happened to top horsepower.

Back pressures have dropped significantly. It is bit difficult to monitor gauge but I did not see much above 4-5 psi pressures when the boost kicked in. It looks like almost zero over lap camming works well there.

 

[Jan-Dirk]

How do you access the two rear bolts of the turbo flange? I hate these...