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Autobanmod
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The liner ductile iron contains hard phase (cementite) if this breaks loose and is embedded in the piston Ring, then you get severe wear scenario.
Good honing and chrome piston rings and good tribology are essential.
 

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Lycoming Reciprocating Aircraft engines use chrome cylinders with non chrome rings or chrome rings with ductile steel cylinders that are age hardened outside for a couple years on racks where they get wet, snowed on etc. and actually rust before they are machined. The ductile steel age hardening process actually works very well to improve durability and wear resistance. Chrome cylinders actually have a microcrack inducing process in the chrome that helps to retain oil for ring & piston lubrication, works very well, doesn't peel off. Seems the harder Revo OEM 1130cc or 1250cc liners are more durable than the aftermarket overbore liners - there should be a way to age harden or nitride surface harden the aftermarket liners for more durability, we need to research this see if it's possible - harder surface with chrome rings probably has less friction HP loss as well, but lubrication is utmost concern to prevent ring wear. Jan-Dirk was your ring liner combination a bitch to get rings to seat ? Kinda like some of the original 1250 CVO's that guys didn't run hard enough and they burned oil - or did your combo seat fairly well with the Turbo ? :cool:
 

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Lycoming Reciprocating Aircraft engines use chrome cylinders with non chrome rings or chrome rings with ductile steel cylinders that are age hardened outside for a couple years on racks where they get wet, snowed on etc. and actually rust before they are machined. The ductile steel age hardening process actually works very well to improve durability and wear resistance. Chrome cylinders actually have a microcrack inducing process in the chrome that helps to retain oil for ring & piston lubrication, works very well, doesn't peel off. Seems the harder Revo OEM 1130cc or 1250cc liners are more durable than the aftermarket overbore liners - there should be a way to age harden or nitride surface harden the aftermarket liners for more durability, we need to research this see if it's possible - harder surface with chrome rings probably has less friction HP loss as well, but lubrication is utmost concern to prevent ring wear. Jan-Dirk was your ring liner combination a bitch to get rings to seat ? Kinda like some of the original 1250 CVO's that guys didn't run hard enough and they burned oil - or did your combo seat fairly well with the Turbo ? :cool:
Cracked chrome was a way to restore worn cyls back to size. I ran those in the Continental I had, not by choice but it came that way. Absolute bitch to get then to get ring seal. Tail end of my plane always smelt like coal . 😁 Eventually went with new set of Milleniums. Problem solved.
Ron
 

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Yea they think the coal smelling tails on planes will be a thing of the past Ron but I think batteries go a way to yet by themselves in an airplane. they are working on Hybrid electric turbines that look very promising guess we'll see but a 747 or 380 flying internationally with hundreds of pax won't be battery powered for our lifetime maybe with Tesla's old idea of charging the earth & atmosphere ? - did anyone see Tesla's new 1111 Hp " Plaid " ? Beats any gasoline engine and hybrid in production think it's a three motor car, Crazy Fast then just run by the Hoover Dam to recharge it - (y):ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
A change in the plans. I was bit lucky to found Destroyer's MTC lock up clutch from here. No need for my own design which could take years to make it function properly. Secondary cover dome is bit ugly but it is not really problem in my bike. It is highly practical though. I can access lock up and clutch in just a minutes. Due to larger diameter multi stage MTC lock up looks way promising compared to my AIM VP. Inner hub is for the V-Rod plates and steels. I hope this time my clutch problems are solved once and for good.

Bicycle part Auto part Nickel Circle Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Can you disengage this clutch with the clutch lever after it locks up? At the traffic light, in stop &go traffic? Safety first...
Yes sure. It adds clutch friction force relatively to rpm's. In the idle it should disengage fully and there's no additional force from the centrifugal levers. Perhaps lock up is bit misleading term here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #150 · (Edited)
A tranny with industrial bearings. Input shaft NSK bearing is stock since it is bit hard variant to find from regular bearings. I had to drill those tiny dowel pins here.

I think there is slight error in the spare list quantities. There is two times 8029K which is that input bearing. Instead I think it should be two times 8027K which is that smaller support bearing at both shaft ends.

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
No I did not change needle bearings this time. Input shaft was not even disassembled completely. I checked output shaft needle bearings and they appeared to be ok. Only ball bearings this time. Dogs are stock. I have not re-shaped them.

Dowel pin holes were done in NC milling machine with hard metal milling tool. There were no problems. EDM drilling machine would have been other possibility as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
Main bearing clearance verification and adjustment. Concluded that 0.04-0.05mm (0.0016-0.0019") radial clearance would be good initial start with FI engine. Bearings are coated here. Had to buff and polish them little bit to achieve proper clearance. Now the crank is rotating freely.

Comparing old and new ones here:

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Plastigauge is pretty handy and cheap tool.

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Much work in this phase but now it is done and assembly can continue.
 

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Wondering where you source your balancer shaft bearings. 14794-01K (Left) shows no longer available. 14795-01K (Right) still available, $46. Also the transmission has sealed bearings which are not available separate from the assembly. I already got caged needle bearings from MecTec but I need to source the sealed bearings. Any links would be appreciated!

Sean
 

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Wondering where you source your balancer shaft bearings. 14794-01K (Left) shows no longer available. 14795-01K (Right) still available, $46. Also the transmission has sealed bearings which are not available separate from the assembly. I already got caged needle bearings from MecTec but I need to source the sealed bearings. Any links would be appreciated!

Sean
Not a problem with that bearing. 14794-01K BEARING CYL ROLLER LH
I would hope the other bearings are not sealed. Need to get oil in there. 😉 While I've not checked on the other bearings, the main output is available. The others, dimensional cross match might be possible from a name brand bearing supply house. Or the same company and ebay has this.
8027K, a bit tougher to locate on this side of the pond but could be matched up with dimensions from a supplier, possibly.

Ron
 

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Thanks Ron! Sorry about calling them sealed instead of roller. They just appear in the microfiche to look just like wheel bearings. I bought 2x 8029K, 2x 8027K (from England), 1x 14794-01K, and 1x 14795-01K (from Ronnie's). I appreciate your finding these for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Ok. Ron got you covered here. Thanks Ron!

Even there is stock bearings still available I am little bit planning for the future with the cost effective industrial bearings which are basically same if they are carefully spec and selected.

Stock shaft end support bearings 8027K are sealed from outer side only. All others are open type.
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
Timing is done and it went easily. All degrees fell within one degree or better. Most accurate cam profiles what I've seen. Very fine and professional grinds from the special cam grinder. Guy knew exactly what he was is doing.

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Almost there. Clutch is last thing to do. A little behind schedule but that is normal to me. I had all winter to rebuild this engine :unsure::LOL:

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