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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Mission completed. Went to dyno and came out with a little mixed feelings. I oughta be glad with the numbers but there is much larger story behind them. But let say that this project has become to an one milestone. So I got [email protected] and [email protected] with 21.6psi of boost. Turbo rpm's were around 150K.

Clutch is full of shit again. It did not hold even nearly with AIM lock up and stock 9 plates and Barnett's red springs. Luckily we found one heavy set of Hayabusa springs with 25% more force. They fitted there without bottoming.

I guess that the bottom line is that EFR6258 ain't the best turbo yet for record breakers. Now I would have chosen little differently. But this is compromise for the space and money available. Not going to replace this turbo immediately but starting with the new camming strategy.

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Mission completed. Went to dyno and came out with a little mixed feelings. I oughta be glad with the numbers but there is much larger story behind them. But let say that this project has become to an one milestone. So I got [email protected] and [email protected] with 21.6psi of boost. Turbo rpm's were around 150K.

Clutch is full of shit again. It did not hold even nearly with AIM lock up and stock 9 plates and Barnett's red springs. Luckily we found one heavy set of Hayabusa springs with 25% more force. They fitted there without bottoming.

I guess that the bottom line is that EFR6258 ain't the best turbo yet for record breakers. Now I would have chosen little differently. But this is compromise for the space and money available. Not going to replace this turbo immediately but starting with the new camming strategy.
How is the block looking? No shifting signs yet? I suspect you will have to start looking at block filler much above this power level based on the picture Kaarza showed a few years ago. I hope I'm wrong (and please share what you are doing to keep the block movement/fretting away).
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
The case has not walked so far with the powerlevels 200, 240, 270 and now 300. Case is heavy duty with all special fasteners and braces. Not too worry so far. You should see one day opened Suzuki Hayabusa engine how light the case is and how unnecessary material is removed. Still they take easily 400-500hp from almost same displacement there. In drag racing they tease them much more. Of course inline four is whole different thing than V2.

I will do rebuild during this off season and change all slide bearings and inspect all. Then I can tell you better how it's been holding together. For now I can tell you that I drove to my garage after dyno so yes it is still breathing and going strong :D
 

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The case has not walked so far with the powerlevels 200, 240, 270 and now 300. Case is heavy duty with all special fasteners and braces. Not too worry so far. You should see one day opened Suzuki Hayabusa engine how light the case is and how unnecessary material is removed. Still they take easily 400-500hp from almost same displacement there. In drag racing they tease them much more. Of course inline four is whole different thing than V2.

I will do rebuild during this off season and change all slide bearings and inspect all. Then I can tell you better how it's been holding together. For now I can tell you that I drove to my garage after dyno so yes it is still breathing and going strong :D
Mind sharing a list of block reinforcements you are using? All I know about is what Kaarza posted a few years ago and I thought it involved some dowel pins and some ARP bolts. I know he designed his own main brace as well....
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I am using pretty much same setup. We did together that brace and I have one in use. What I did differently was those main bolts which were not available suitable lengths from ARP. More specific I was not 100% satisfied with the lengths available. So I ordered them from the special fastener manufacturer according to my specs and the drawings. Was not cheap studs but I can sleep my nights better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
My back pressures are way too high. That means that I have still too small turbine or I have to do major changes to my camming. I will start with the intake cams. Exhaust cams seems to be ok. Does anybody know if there is even milder cams (shorter duration) available than stock ones? I mean something like 220-230 deg. Perhaps I could regrind pair of old stock intakes somewhere.
 

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My back pressures are way too high. That means that I have still too small turbine or I have to do major changes to my camming. I will start with the intake cams. Exhaust cams seems to be ok. Does anybody know if there is even milder cams (shorter duration) available than stock ones? I mean something like 220-230 deg. Perhaps I could regrind pair of old stock intakes somewhere.
mukle I couldn't find it but I seem to remember someone posting about using 4 stock intake cams on a turbo setup with luck. If the original poster finds this maybe they can chime in. I'd like to know more as I am going with a SuperCharger this spring and need to know which cams to use as well.
 

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Well done Mukle! 350hp is possible with A/r 0.85 turbine housing and reworked cam timings. Maybe some IC work is needed as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Good evening Master Yoda! Nice to hear from you here in 1130cc for a long time :D Yes that sounds like a plan! After disassembly I am little wiser what to do but it is already expected that this is not going to be cheap winter either...

Yes 4x intake were one of the best setups previously. Have to chew this little bit more. Much to melt for one day.
 

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4x intake was the best camming for daily use I never had. Currently I have Jones turbo stage III, which were very challenging to tune and are eating a lot of ethanol on highway. The high end power of Jones cams is enormous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Jones NA-stg2 cams are quite similar in turbo usage. Had to degree them to avoid too much overlap. Mike Jones told me that I could still try to use them in turbo if I put Int C/L 108 and Exh C/L 112. Very top end biased. Actually power and torque rises almost 1:1 like in supercharger. I want to move torque more downwards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
But this 0.85 A/r turbine is really good idea. Somehow I missed that option when ordering the parts. I thought that only 0.64 is available for the T25 flange and 0.80 needs already bigger T4 flange. I know that new turbine will be expensive but not nearly as much as new turbo would have cost. Drop fit is also very good thing. Making new exhaust manifolds is very painful to me. I am very fortunate that I got help from the Karzza with the TIG weldings. They are awesome and not one seam has not fractured yet. My own MIG welds has failed but this is nothing new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Falling to pieces again...

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So far, so good so what. No signs of detonation or back fire valve hitting. It must be pure luck without knocking
sensor and DTT vrfi. Piston top coating has performed pretty well. No scratches in the sleeves as well.
Thought that short piston would have been in tremendous stress and left some marks but nothing yet.
Oil film has done its magic. Oil was Motul V300 Factory line Fully Synthetic 15W-50. It is a Jaso-MA2 grade
oil which is ok for the wet clutch as well.
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Heads look pretty normal. No excessive soot build up.
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Cams are ok too. I am planning to change these Jones NA-stg2 cams to little milder setup.
I could use exhaust cams but maybe I could sell them as complete set without those slotted sprockets. I need them.
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I am not sure if this overhaul interest anyone but I can take more photos when I open the case.
 

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Falling to pieces again...



So far, so good so what. No signs of detonation or back fire valve hitting. It must be pure luck without knocking
sensor and DTT vrfi. Piston top coating has performed pretty well. No scratches in the sleeves as well.
Thought that short piston would have been in tremendous stress and left some marks but nothing yet.
Oil film has done its magic. Oil was Motul V300 Factory line Fully Synthetic 15W-50. It is a Jaso-MA2 grade
oil which is ok for the wet clutch as well.


Heads look pretty normal. No excessive soot build up.


Cams are ok too. I am planning to change these Jones NA-stg2 cams to little milder setup.
I could use exhaust cams but maybe I could sell them as complete set without those slotted sprockets. I need them.


I am not sure if this overhaul interest anyone but I can take more photos when I open the case.
Thanks for the teardown pics, I appreciate this (and I know the effort involved)!

What compression are those pistons? I'm sure you are running much lower than stock.

As for detonation/knock: The combination of lower compression PLUS what I assume (hate to do that, but you can confirm or deny) is a fairly conservative timing table will serve you well as you are seeing (also what octane fuel are you running?).

Now....not to be THAT guy (but I will be), if you had a method to actually log knock events I suspect you'd find that you are leaving quite a bit of power on the table due to lower than necessary advance values. Then again.....I still think you are shooting for a killer street/strip combo not an all out strip bike. If you were (all out drag bike) then I'd say time for some more heavy duty engine controller (motec comes to mind, but get ready to burn your wallet) that can log knock events.

Either way, looks great! I wish had your time and work effort....
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Pistons are Carillo CP-M5078 offset pistons for the 1357cc stroker. Compression is 12:1 but it is lowered to 10.6. Ceramic coating is done by Vreeland's.

E85 octane is around 106 in our country. It varies bit.

Actually I have asked from DTT more range for the spark advance. With 14psi of boost in 9Krpm it is now approx. 31-33 deg. With normal gasoline this engine would probably already found in Geostationary Earth Orbit.

Yes Motec, Haltech etc would be great but implementing them to V-Rod is way beyond my knowledge. And wallet too...
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
Meanwhile disassembly I have thought about new camming strategy. What if I regrind stock intakes and take there max. 20deg of duration off and put them wo degreeing to ICL106. Then to exhaust SE stg1 intake cams (17431-05K). If I am not completely lost when putting stock intakes to exhaust it will make ECL around -119deg according to member measurements here in site. Now SE stg1 intake comes with 6deg retard compared stock so new ECL will be approx 113deg wo degreeing. It would be great to use non slotted sprockets but if this is not accessible I can put slotted back of course.

New LSA is approx 109,5 which will definitely move torque more smaller revs. Overlap 21deg is reduced 7,5deg from my current setup with Jones NA-stg2 cams.

Any thoughts about this? Have I missed something? I know I will sacrifice some top end power here but that is not problem. Key point is to make it better drive and fuel economy to streets. There is still plenty of unmeasured potential with the turbo if there is still need for speed occasionally drag strip visits.

Drawing corrected. -113ECL changed to -111ECL.
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ECL -111deg
 
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