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:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: !!! Be sure to avoid thrust area behind Hybrid M/C Rider cone during bean propellent testing ! Very dangerous area !! mukle I would suggest wrapping baffle core loosely with fiberglass muffler packing or SS Wool packing, because the tighter you wrap and pack it in there the higher the exhaust pitch will be. If you have maybe 6-10 5" discs in there should be like 0 restriction and good sound, you can adjust it with # of discs to you get an acceptable sound. Is that a perforated or louvered baffle ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
It looks like perforated baffle and there is already fiberglass and ss wool packing around it. I already put in so I cannot examine it closely right now. I'll do that next time I take it away. Had to take it out already once since I put large flange screws inside for bracket. Did not want weld directly to chromed surface.

Here is some sound examples. Before anyone suggests that I have leaking piston rings have to tell that white smoke is water and engine is just started and very cool. Ambient is now only 50F. Very far from normal operating temperature. It hesitates bit in open loop idle control when cold. Bit rich side and some more advance could be used. Tuning is not ready yet and I am not too interested in tune that area too much anyways. Closed loop idle is another thing.

Sound check without baffle
Sound check with baffle

I put all the plates there now. Could be 10 or 12 pcs. I think it is super quiet now and there is more bass than in previous 4" pipe. Better so far. Let see what happens when I ignite bean propellent in the freeway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Time to inspect some back pressures and EGT's. I drilled R1/8" threads to collector adapter under turbo where I can connect pressure gauges and K-type thermometers.

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More accurate inspection will be done at the dyno but already can be seen that little revving causes immediately 0,5bar (7,25psi) back pressures. Have to compare it to intake manifold pressure but I have already feeling that there can be way more pressure ratio than 1:1. Turbine is now large so it should not cause too much pressure. It appears that my camming can be too radical for turbo use. At least power band is very top end biased. Overlap is 28.5deg and some reversion can occur. Have not inspected intake valve coloring yet. I hope they are more rusted from E85 than black from reversion :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
EGT hookup. It is already fkin freezing (50F) in my garage without heating. There is turbo speed sensing yet to go. After that I'm ready for the comprehensive dyno sessions. In B&W compressor there is already spot for the speed sensor.

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Awesome work ! very interesting mukle have you ever done any all out acceleration timing tests ? Sounds like an absolute beast if it breaks the rear tire loose at half throttle with a 30 tooth pulley - bikes got to haul some serious A$$ !! I'm sure the roads too cold for traction now but got any numbers from the summer riding season over there ? Looking forward to the Dyno #'s and pressure/temp testing results -(y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Well many times but never got nice and clean passes while timing. Quite a many technical difficulties and most of all rider is real chicken shit and scares to ride TPS100%. It smokes tire quite easily through one to four when the boost kicks in with 30T pulley too. And if there is warm and good grip it asks much from the rider to change upwards while front end is in the air and not letting throttle a bit. So I am quite lousy driver and cannot claim its all potential. Of course I still enjoy if there is enough power and I have succeeded in my building goals. For the technocrat technical side is other half of the hobby ;)
 

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Believe me I understand all that ! 😲 Scary ! You need to rent a wheelie bar & a professional drag racer when you get it initially dialed in, and she what she delivers at the strip, & you can be the "dial it in" Turbo Revo Doctor ! Meantime get rear axle all the way to the back of the swingarm slot to help hold down front end, probably need longer belt with 30 tooth fwd. pulley - I'm sure it will go fast @ 150+ Mph with that gearing - question is how long to get there ? I'm thinking not long with wheelie bars and a professional racer running it, will need a sticky drag slick - Have you thought about ADI injection to deter detonation at high boost/load levels ? I see no way you could retain top power ignition timing without ADI, even with that huge intercooler - you could easily have one of the quickest V Rods ever built there ! - (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
We will see that. Next season I will try to drive few good Streetman class races here. This year came to end too early for me. Driving season is short here. Only five months or so.

No I have not thought about ADI. E85 gas is quite forgiving and chosen for that reason. Compression 10.6 is too high for pump gas now with FI. With ethanole high spark advance can be used.

Longer swingarm could be very handy. Extension is ugly but might be done. Now I am changing once again handlebar to straighter and narrower. Risers too. In R-model they are quite curvy to backward. Need to get my weight forward. Seat has to be modified so that there is much more support behind. There is many things to get right in the chassis. It is not all about power if you cannot use it.
 

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My buddy bought a KZ1000 drag bike back in the day, the seat had no step in it and was hard to stay on it so he cut a 2x4 and had the seat built back up with that in there for a butt stop for full control. Months later someone at the drag strip came up to him and asked " Hey were you the guy that fell off the back of this bike a few months ago leaving the starting line ? 😲 Suddenly my buddy realized why the guy sold the bike - he was too embarrassed to ride it there again - :ROFLMAO: So yea, the higher the power the more mods it takes to keep it on the track & controllable. Modification begets Modification. More Speed requires More Speed Controls. Bring more money ! But oh what fun it can be and very proud moments to see the machine make arrow straight fast runs down the track. My prior chief pilot had a H-D dual engine Nitro dragster, Goliath, very dangerous, one of the first into the 8 second bracket way back in the day, almost got killed in a horrendous crash on it - he rebuilt it and wanted me to race it but even I said no to that invitation. I'm crazy but not stupid. (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Yea I am pretty familiar with the sliding off feeling. I am little bit too tall 6.25 and heavy 210lbs for these events. Legs are making too deep angle and they are only dead weight onboard. They cannot resist forces much. Do not want to start moving pegs backwards. I have to cut piece of 2x4 behind my ass for sure. I will drop front end another inch and therefore head light must be lifted before that. I already hit the fender once when bottoming out the suspension after not so controlled wheeling. I shut gas down too quickly and made 50ft wobble after the front end landed. Luckily did not fell that time.

On the other side vrod wheelbase is already pretty long +1700mm and its going very straight when you have aimed it properly at the stage. Only few launches when I nearly rolled timing equipment dices at the finishline :LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
All the good things comes from the USA :) Have to open pre drilled hole for the speed sensor. So this part is easy. Let see what I figure out with the electronics. I have one idea in my mind but little uncertain does it work.

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Sensor appears working ok. I read pulses with ESP8266 microcontroller and after little math manipulation I send RPM's to IoT web service and use my Android phone to read them. One might say that I must be out of my mind and why so difficult way to do relatively easy task. There must be gauges for that. I just wanted to see if this works no other reason. To be honest money is the one reason. Turbo rpm gauges are astronomically priced compared to normal tachometers. There is no sense I think. If anyone knows good turbo rpm meters 0 to +100Krpm I am interested in to hear.

And as clumsy I am I fell my oscilloscope and it shows dead man's no heart beat line anymore. Now I dot have meter to calibrate the system #!¤%&!!!!

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Sensor appears working ok. I read pulses with ESP8266 microcontroller and after little math manipulation I send RPM's to IoT web service and use my Android phone to read them. One might say that I must be out of my mind and why so difficult way to do relatively easy task. There must be gauges for that. I just wanted to see if this works no other reason. To be honest money is the one reason. Turbo rpm gauges are astronomically priced compared to normal tachometers. There is no sense I think. If anyone knows good turbo rpm meters 0 to +100Krpm I am interested in to hear.

And as clumsy I am I fell my oscilloscope and it shows dead man's no heart beat line anymore. Now I dot have meter to calibrate the system #!¤%&!!!!

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What's the output signal and voltage range of your sensor? This is my world (on the weekends at least).
 

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It is 5V square (50/50 Duty Cycle) wave signal.
Take a look at an Arduino with a memory card breakout board. You can feed that signal to a digital input. Of course you need to write code for this (which it sounds like you have said skills) to convert and then log to the memory card. Heck, even IF you have a sensor that outputs > 5V you can simply add in a small voltage divider network (a whopping 5 cents worth of resistors) to get it in range.

I have done this type of "logger" for sensors on my bike and one of my project cars (egt logging).

I agree, the "gauges" out there are overpriced other than they are convenient and easily mounted.

Going this route makes it very cheap AND you will gain some valuable skills for data logging on the cheap (and surprisingly reliable if you design your power supply with a capacitor and diode for filtering and feedback protection). I have been running devices like this for years without failure (and some are using prototype boards that are anything but professional!). I'm working on honing my PCB design skills this winter to take this type of work to the next level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Take a look at an Arduino with a memory card breakout board. You can feed that signal to a digital input. Of course you need to write code for this (which it sounds like you have said skills) to convert and then log to the memory card. Heck, even IF you have a sensor that outputs > 5V you can simply add in a small voltage divider network (a whopping 5 cents worth of resistors) to get it in range.

I have done this type of "logger" for sensors on my bike and one of my project cars (egt logging).

I agree, the "gauges" out there are overpriced other than they are convenient and easily mounted.

Going this route makes it very cheap AND you will gain some valuable skills for data logging on the cheap (and surprisingly reliable if you design your power supply with a capacitor and diode for filtering and feedback protection). I have been running devices like this for years without failure (and some are using prototype boards that are anything but professional!). I'm working on honing my PCB design skills this winter to take this type of work to the next level.

Yes I am little bit familiar with Arduino IDE and can perhaps do memory sdcard logging. I do not know yet which would be best for the dyno session. There is not much time to play with PC and other measurements should go without too much hassles. Main focus is in engine tuning and same time gather valuable information for the problems and possible future setup changes. As I told somewhere I am starting to believe that this camming is not the best solution for me. I would like to have more evidence for this.

Since ESP8266 is for 3.3V signalling I had to use voltage divider from 5V -> 3.3V already. I made it with resistors for now. I can already see some filtering is needed.

It is a small shame that Daytona VRFI logging software does not accept other than on/off user inputs in the graph. It would have been most convenient to have them all in same log. That would have been nice to examine later in home.


My word you guys are way over my head! Fascinating, though.
Yes we are nerding big time here :ROFLMAO: But don't be sorry. I am like a bambi on thin ice here as well. However I would like to learn electronics more and more.
 

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Yes I am little bit familiar with Arduino IDE and can perhaps do memory sdcard logging. I do not know yet which would be best for the dyno session. There is not much time to play with PC and other measurements should go without too much hassles. Main focus is in engine tuning and same time gather valuable information for the problems and possible future setup changes. As I told somewhere I am starting to believe that this camming is not the best solution for me. I would like to have more evidence for this.

Since ESP8266 is for 3.3V signalling I had to use voltage divider from 5V -> 3.3V already. I made it with resistors for now. I can already see some filtering is needed.

It is a small shame that Daytona VRFI logging software does not accept other than on/off user inputs in the graph. It would have been most convenient to have them all in same log. That would have been nice to examine later in home.
I would build an Arduino based logger that logs RPM + Impeller speed, then you could drop that data into Excel and overlay it with the data you get from your DTT. It won't be exactly together due to sample rate differences (I imagine, never played with a DTT) BUT would get close enough to view in one spreadsheet.

There are some very cool arduino based examples that can log rpm. I have several in prototype that are dead reliable. Once again, pennies in hardware, just "expensive" in time. I believe you are using one of the bikes that has the RPM signal line coming out of the ECM. If so, you are almost there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
I would build an Arduino based logger that logs RPM + Impeller speed, then you could drop that data into Excel and overlay it with the data you get from your DTT. It won't be exactly together due to sample rate differences (I imagine, never played with a DTT) BUT would get close enough to view in one spreadsheet.
Yes that is my goal now. VRFI logging software is already very good but all features cannot be added. Arduino IDE's Serial Plotter is pretty handy tool for online checking. RealTerm can also capture serial data which can be exported to e.g. Excel sheets. So there is many possibilities for cheap logging for sure.

There are some very cool arduino based examples that can log rpm. I have several in prototype that are dead reliable. Once again, pennies in hardware, just "expensive" in time. I believe you are using one of the bikes that has the RPM signal line coming out of the ECM. If so, you are almost there.
There is pin #8 in Packard ECM 36 place connector where tach signal is connected. I have wired it for other purposes already (shift light and gear indicator). However DTT logging software logs rpm's and it is one of the key graphs there.

This is part of the fun of owning project vehicles!
Agreed (y)
 
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