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Not Dead Yet
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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the middle of replacing my rear tire and have it off. (thanks robrob and tmvick) I see that I have to grind down the fender supports, (which my dealer neglected to do, causing early tire rub). Soon I will be replacing the tank for the larger one I have, and will have to grind off some of the support plate. I have to buy a grinder. The grinders I see for sale seem to be more of a cut off wheel than a grinder. Those of you with them, what brand and model would you reccommend to accomplish these tasks?
Thanks
 

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Part-time mod
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10,859 Posts
I picked up a cheapy B&D one from Wally-world for like $30. It's a 4 1/2" one I think? I haven't used it yet, but it seems like it'll work.
 

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690 Posts
I bought one at HF for about 18 bucks or less. Ive used it for the V rod supports as well as beat the hell out of it on other items and it keeps on working. If it died tomorrow it owes me nothing.
 

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F*@kTard
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7,946 Posts
Joseph said:
I bought one at HF for about 18 bucks or less. Ive used it for the V rod supports as well as beat the hell out of it on other items and it keeps on working. If it died tomorrow it owes me nothing.
And usually HF will let you buy the 1-yr warranty for another $5-6 for those items so you can just keep taking it back every time it blows up. I went through tons of them on my stock car.
 

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Look for a Makita if you do a lot of work. 41/2" is most common. Should come with a grinding wheel. You can also get a cut off wheel for a couple bucks. For grinding down the brackets use the grinding wheel, for cutting off the skidplate for tank replacment use the cut off wheel.

This is my opinion but I work metal for a living and have a good idea what works. I like to have tools and equipment that lasts so I avoid the bargain brands and shop sales when I can.
 

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The Heavycycles Guy
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6,785 Posts
I picked up a used Bosch 4-1/2" off of craigslist for $30... I keep beating the crap out of it and it just keeps working.
 

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Banned
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Metabo and Makita are my first choices, both should still cost you around $100.

http://coastaltool.com/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/a/meta/me7115.htm?L+coastest+vfbd2143ff929b92+1184118772

Specifications
Rating: 120V AC
Amperage: 7.0
No-load RPM: 10,000
Disc Diameter: 41/2"
Arbor Size: 7/8"
Spindle Thread: 5/8" - 11
Length: 11"
Weight: 4.8 lbs

7115.jpg



Features
Unique Metabo slip clutch helps protect tool and operator.
Wheel guard adjustable without tools.
2 position side handle for cutting and grinding.
Low profile gear housing.
Auto-stop carbon brushes help prevent damage to motor.
Maximum torque of 19 inch-lbs.
 

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9,795 Posts
I go with what's REALLY IMPORTANT. All my tools match in color! :)

Probably not the best deal... but it has been working solidly for quite a few years now.

 

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Will Work For Mod $$
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2,866 Posts
I see that I have to grind down the fender supports, (which my dealer neglected to do, causing early tire rub).

If your talking about the saddle bag support brackets, why not just remove them. Unless you plan on using bags in the future.
 

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1,107 Posts
I have a DeWalt. Makita is also a top brand. I believe quality tools help bring out a quality product. Got mine at Home Depot and also picked up some cutting wheels.

Recently used it to chop up my dented airbox cover and painted it flat black myself. This chop job is my first time to ever use a hand grinder with a cutting wheel. Don't forget to pick up some safety glasses as tiny pieces of metal will fly all over the place. Also, may want to get ear plugs too--its pretty damn loud.

I just started a new thread in the VRSCR section showing pics my "Rat-Bike" in progress. Its title is My VRSCRB (RB for Rat-Bike):D
 

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Friend of Max.
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I use Milwaukee for what it's worth.
 

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# 12/50 Ignite LE
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Ryobi for me!
 

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TRANNY KILLER :)
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14,572 Posts
You've got your plastic, wood, and metal grinders.... if yer gonna want it to work right and last a while spen the extra bucks on an all metal grinder...
 

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myvrodrocks
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Johnny HotFoot said:
You've got your plastic, wood, and metal grinders.... if yer gonna want it to work right and last a while spen the extra bucks on an all metal grinder...

That is just so wrong.... :stilpoke:
 

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myvrodrocks
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6,021 Posts
mustanggt said:
I see that I have to grind down the fender supports, (which my dealer neglected to do, causing early tire rub).

If your talking about the saddle bag support brackets, why not just remove them. Unless you plan on using bags in the future.


:them:

I know guys just love the chance to recommend tools...but that is really the best solution...toss 'em. They don't do squat but eat up your fuel mileage and your tire...
 

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EXCELSIOR
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A note of experience from one who is familiar with the B&D/DeWalt models.
While similar in appearance spend the extra dough on the model with the "cast aluminum" drive as in the photo from MikeP. The all plastic models are known to break internally when trying to remove the wheels. The pin that engages the wheel shaft and holds it so that you can loosen the wheel retaining nut is poorly supported within the plastic housing. After several, or even few uses, the load on the pin causes the plastic to give way and no longer allows you to remove the wheel.
Your only means then is to remove the wheel guard and hold the shaft with channel locks or other pliers while you remove the nut.
 
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