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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone know where I can find power near the front of the bike (or anywhere for that matter) when the ignition switch is in the ACCESSORY position AND in the ignition position? I've found lots of places that are hot in the ignition position, but nothing for accessory.

Thanks
 

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I went to auto zone and bought a "add a fuse" and plugged it in the accessory fuse. My power point is only hot when the ignition switch is on.
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys...just found the point I need a couple of minutes ago.

I really wanted a hot spot when the ignition switch is in "Accessory" as well as Ignition.

Anyway, on the VRod's headlamp plug (the one BEFORE it "Y's" out to the two separate beams) there are four wires. Only three of them are used (Black, Yellow, and White). The fourth wire is Orange with a white stripe. It is not used and is hot in Accessory and Ignition...so I'm going for that.

I like the access a fuse thing, but like I said, I was really after the Accessory position on the ignition switch.

I'm doing a Road Rod conversion, so I have to alter the headlamp wires a bit anyway.

Thanks!
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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If you replace your existing accessory fuse with the Access-a-fuse, it will only be powered when the bike is in ACC or Ignition. This is how I'm running my GPS wiring and it is only on when the bike is in "ACC" or "Ignition". I promise.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If you replace your existing accessory fuse with the Access-a-fuse, it will only be powered when the bike is in ACC or Ignition. This is how I'm running my GPS wiring and it is only on when the bike is in "ACC" or "Ignition". I promise.
LOL! You are absolutely correct. I will keep that in mind for the future. Just ran a tester from that accessory fuse under the seat to the orange wire I found. As it turns out, they're both on the same circuit...so I think I'm good to go.
 

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With all the Road Rod accessories that have been added. you must have a volt meter. Be aware that when everything is on and you are ideling in hot weather traffic, the two fans will put you in minus charge. It doesn't take long to kill the battery. A few revs will put you back in the plus, but there ought to be a better solution.

One knowledgable dealer told me that the engine would be ok with just one fan, you can unplug one headlight, but these aren't real solutions. I wish there was a way to generete more juice.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
With all the Road Rod accessories that have been added. you must have a volt meter. Be aware that when everything is on and you are ideling in hot weather traffic, the two fans will put you in minus charge. It doesn't take long to kill the battery. A few revs will put you back in the plus, but there ought to be a better solution.

One knowledgable dealer told me that the engine would be ok with just one fan, you can unplug one headlight, but these aren't real solutions. I wish there was a way to generete more juice.
Wow! These are usually my concerns when I do dual-sport conversions on dirt bikes! Other than an audio system, I don't really see that I'm adding all that much, unless for some reason, the FLTR headlamp draws a lot more power than the stock VRSC one.

If anything, I thought heated grips and my electric vest would cause a potential problem...of course, when it's below 30 degrees, maybe I at least don't have to worry about the fans so much?

Let me know what you think,
Russ
 

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Wow! These are usually my concerns when I do dual-sport conversions on dirt bikes! Other than an audio system, I don't really see that I'm adding all that much, unless for some reason, the FLTR headlamp draws a lot more power than the stock VRSC one.

If anything, I thought heated grips and my electric vest would cause a potential problem...of course, when it's below 30 degrees, maybe I at least don't have to worry about the fans so much?

Let me know what you think,
Russ
Wth the road glide fairing, you are adding another headlight, plus all the other. The fl's put out 30% more elec power than the vrods so you have to be careful.

The fans will never come on when you need heated clothing, I use mine often. I don't mean to frighten you, it is a problem you can live with, just be aware!
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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by changing out the standard lamps (light bulbs) in your fairing with HID, you will decrease your operating AMP draw from the headlights. Running both HID lamps at the same time would be drawing about the same if not less than one standard lamp/bulb.
A solution I've used on my cars in the past when I went through my "I gotta have the loudest most kick assiest stereo system possible", is I would increase the "size" of the alternator to compensate for the additional battery load. Always a good idea to install a "subpanel" as well.
 

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Can't you use the diagnostic connector wiring to power an accessory? Its behind the right front side cover so it's close to the front and the power commanders draw power from there. Don't know what the amp draws are, but an idea.
 

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Can't you use the diagnostic connector wiring to power an accessory? Its behind the right front side cover so it's close to the front and the power commanders draw power from there. Don't know what the amp draws are, but an idea.
No, if you mean the 4 place Deutsch connector called the "Data Link" or connector [91].

The Data Link has 4 wires (3 on newer bikes). It's located behind the left upper front side cover on 2002 to 2006 VRSCs and under the right upper front side cover on 2007 and newer VRSCs.
pin 1 is the "flash pin" and connects to a light green with red stripe wire (not used on late model bikes)
pin 2 is ground and connects to a black wire (black with green stripe on late model bikes)
pin 3 is serial data and connects to a light green with violet stripe wire
pin 4 is ignition and connects to a gray wire​
The gray wire "ignition" power should not be used for powering any accessories. It is used for critical bike functions (it supplies the "switch power" to pin 13 of the ECM) and any significant extra draw on this circuit will cause problems with ECM operation. An acceptable use of this circuit would be a "device" with a high impedance input that just reads this voltage to indicate that the ignition is on or to power the coil of a relay (relay should be equipped with an EMF protection diode).
 

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K.I.A. '07 AW
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No, if you mean the 4 place Deutsch connector called the "Data Link" or connector [91].

An acceptable use of this circuit would be a "device" with a high impedance input that just reads this voltage to indicate that the ignition is on or to power the coil of a relay (relay should be equipped with an EMF protection diode).
such as a PC-V auto tune module or ThunderMax auto tune module
 
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