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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need to remove the mid exhaust support and one stripped (hex). Drill er out?
I knew this would happen sooner or later. -crap.
 

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I would get a 3/8 drive torx bit just a bit larger than the hex. Tap it in with 6 inch extension, and a hammer, and take it off with the rachet.

If that didn't work, then drill it out. The problem is the bolt will be stuck in the threads, after you drill the head off.

I would reccommend to anyone to get the hex wrenches on the 3/8 rachet driver. By far my most used tool. I have one set strait cut, and one set with a ball type wobble end. I use the strait cut for the stubborn ones, to minimize the risk of stripping the head.

I buy them at Harbor Freight, and the sets only cost some $8.00 each. That way, when I break one, I don't cry as much. ;)
 

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Dallas, TX
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trbo2nr said:
Need to remove the mid exhaust support and one stripped (hex). Drill er out?
I knew this would happen sooner or later. -crap.
Easiest way to get off a stripped bolt? Talk nice to it, buy it a drink, compliment it on it's body, you know, the usual shit.
 

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If the bolt is not seized in its threads you can purchase a reverse cut drill bit smaller than the bolt shaft and when you drill into it the bolt will screw its self right out while drilling. I purchased a selection from a drill and tool manufacturing company and they work really nice. If it is seized in the threads then drill with a bit smaller than the bolt shaft and use an easy out tool to remove with some penetrating lube. Good Luck
 

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The Best Bet If You Can Get To The Outside Of The Hex Fastner, Is To Use A Twist Socket On The Outside. It Is Made Just For This Purpose. It Has Twisted Flutes In It And It Is Tapered. The Harder You Turn It To Get It Out, The Better It Bites. Good Luck
 

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if it's accessible it's also easy to take a dremel with a flat abrassive disk and cut a slot in it and then use a good sized flat head screwdriver being sure you are pushing the screwdriver in hard when you twist it with either a wrench on it's shaft or a vice grips on it's handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
traktime said:
"easy out".........................when all else fails!
Yup, thanks.
 

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3OliveMartini said:
man rj.. you have all the answers.. i think i love you LOL
All I need, another S T A L K E R......;)
 

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I would get a 3/8 drive torx bit just a bit larger than the hex. Tap it in with 6 inch extension, and a hammer, and take it off with the rachet.

If that didn't work, then drill it out. The problem is the bolt will be stuck in the threads, after you drill the head off.

I would reccommend to anyone to get the hex wrenches on the 3/8 rachet driver. By far my most used tool. I have one set strait cut, and one set with a ball type wobble end. I use the strait cut for the stubborn ones, to minimize the risk of stripping the head.

I buy them at Harbor Freight, and the sets only cost some $8.00 each. That way, when I break one, I don't cry as much.


Also buy some PV Blaster, u can get it at all the auto parts stores spray the bolt and let it sit for 5 min or so.. This stuff is the best for tight or stripped bolts.
 

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screemingscott said:
If the bolt is not seized in its threads you can purchase a reverse cut drill bit smaller than the bolt shaft and when you drill into it the bolt will screw its self right out while drilling. I purchased a selection from a drill and tool manufacturing company and they work really nice. If it is seized in the threads then drill with a bit smaller than the bolt shaft and use an easy out tool to remove with some penetrating lube. Good Luck
I have these and love them
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...,+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out,+Taps+&+Dies
 

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Two Wheels Or A Prop
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The esay-out if you are past the point of any hope.

....but one thing worth noting, when you have the real subborn bolt that won't turn, before you just keep twisting and strip it, try tapping (I would say hit, but most people don't like the idea of hitting their bike with a hammer) the bolt/screw/etc with a hammer. This works best on allen head screws if you have the socket or T handle type that you can actually hit with the hammer - you want to hit the tool and not the bike - or you can take a flat round punch that fits inside the bolt and smack that. This trick works wonders on phillips screws because it not only loosens the screw but it also seats the screwdriver into the head of the screw. Try twisting while you are smacking it.
 

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when I have a screw/bolt that is hard to get out before I strip out the head I revert to a hammer impact, you can use it with bits or sockets, it can do both left and right hand threads, and when you hit it with the hammer it not only seats the bit but applies torque in the direction you set to remove the scew/bolt...my 2 cents worth.. take care and ride safe..
 

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P B Blaster, agreed, is THE penetrating spray. Is commonly used in the marine industry. I've easily removed exhaust manifold bolts and stuck O2 sensors with that stuff. On the other hand an e-zee-out is the spawn of the devil himself. At least in my hands anyway. I've just never had good luck with those things.
 

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Use an impact driver with a torx socket. It wouldn't hurt to give the threads a shot of penetrating oil either. I've used Kroil for years and it works like a charm. Only thing is you might not want to use Kroil if you live in California. The bottle says it's know to causes cancer in California........ Good thing I live in Texas.
 
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