[Tekno]

Hi friends.
I get my baby dyno’ed last friday. Is my first time dyno on any bike (changed intake and exhaust).
Wish to know what to look on the graphic they gave me. I just wanted a good balance air/fuel that gives me the best possible ride (not a speed addict, at least not always 😬).
Any help is welcomed.

 

[JJrod]

If that Air fuel ratio is showing correct, your way too lean and headed for a meltdown. Chasing numbers is shyte, if it destroys the engine in the process. The term "lean is mean" produces more power but at a cost.
The dashed line on the graph is where you ideally want the A/F, and no leaner than 14.3-14.5 at anytime under power.

 

[Tekno]

I might not seeing it correctly, but dashed line doesn’t means to mark the numbers at “x” increment horizontal and vertical, like in any graph? Doesn’t a/f shows aligned over 18 how is supposed to look/be?

 

[Moler]

You need to talk to your dyno guy and get a tuner asap. Ideally the afr should be somewhere around 13ish under power. You are at 18....... bad

 

[Tekno]

And that’s independently of which intake and exhaust combination have been installed?
Thanks

 

[JJrod]

What tuner are you using?
Did you have it tuned? Or just had a dyno run performed?
A dyno run is not tuning.

 

[Tekno]

Dyno jet, we’re supposed to be tuned, not just a pass. Tuner guy flashed the ecm

 

[Moler]

I would go back and talk with the dyno guy. Ask him if he is concerned about the high afr. If he is not.......... Run

 

[rbabos]

Dyno jet, we’re supposed to be tuned, not just a pass. Tuner guy flashed the ecm

That is not tuned and in fact leaner then factory stock by a long shot. A nice flat line from idle to about 6500 - 7k of about 14.2 AFR and then dropping to 12.5 - 13 near rev limit would be ideal. Rich AFR is somewhat of a debate. Some say 13 - 13.5 is the ticket, where in fact 14.2 is actually a rich AFR. A good tune, set up for a daily rider can be dialed in for all areas, including cruise rpms, which are really happy even at 14.7 which is most efficient for power and economy.
Keep in mind, there are two forms of tunes. The one you actually ride the bike at and the one on the dyno for max power, as in a dedicated race bike. A lot of tuners are just hacks, looking to make a buck. Some are just plain dumb to supply that dyno sheet, if that bike was actually tuned.
Ron

 

[Jeffc12566]

That is not tuned and in fact leaner then factory stock by a long shot. A nice flat line from idle to about 6500 - 7k of about 14.2 AFR and then dropping to 12.5 - 13 near rev limit would be ideal. Rich AFR is somewhat of a debate. Some say 13 - 13.5 is the ticket, where in fact 14.2 is actually a rich AFR. A good tune, set up for a daily rider can be dialed in for all areas, including cruise rpms, which are really happy even at 14.7 which is most efficient for power and economy.
Keep in mind, there are two forms of tunes. The one you actually ride the bike at and the one on the dyno for max power, as in a dedicated race bike. A lot of tuners are just hacks, looking to make a buck. Some are just plain dumb to supply that dyno sheet, if that bike was actually tuned.
Ron

Something is not right with that chart or the run! Could it be one of those $ 75.00 dollars horsepower only runs? The AFR is flat-lined only cause it does not scale past 18!
Can't imagine what it sounded like running and misfiring that lean or what the ring lands are or will soon look like. I want to give this tuner the benefit of the doubt but most know that industry is descending into a carnival

 

[Ceigenberger]

That’s stupid lean and will lead to broken parts quickly.

 

[Tekno]

The thing is that bike is running smooth, less heat and no backfire. I just talked with dyno guy. He told me that he is sure of what he did, and got me an appointment for Thursday to get the bike into dyno again so I can see what he does.
I have no idea what he should be doing. I told him I’m worried about that AFR number and what you guys told me it should be.

 

[Tekno]

I paid for dyno tuning, was way more than $75

 

[Jeffc12566]

I paid for dyno tuning, was way more than $75

No disrespect! Like I wrote in my post ether something wrong with the chart or that was an HP only run to gauge numbers. You need to see it from my point of view, you claim intake and exhaust changes and those are two things that will affect the AFR and post a tuned sheet showing 114 HP with an eighteen or higher AFR asking what to look for!
This ain’t FB Tekno some of us have been around this for a long time. 🙏

 

[Tekno]

Non disrespect taken, nor trying to be disrespectful either. I just wanted to give all the information I have. As mentioned before, is my first time taking a bike to dyno and just wanted to confirm with the people that know (this forum), the results I got.
I’m not looking to get any specific hp number. I just want my baby to run smooth. That’s why my concern is only for the AFR. Yes, the only mods were the motohooligan (installed by the tech on the dealer, same that did the “tuning”) and the tabs that I installed. I got the intake for them to install, because wanted to avoid what is looking that I ended having, the lean issue.
Again, I know nothing about what numbers AFR should be, but bike is running smooth and less warm; which I read that if lean, should be drastically warmer, popping, etc. If that signs are not there, additional to graph numbers, what should I look to confirm to the tech that is wrong?
And thanks everybody for your help.

 

[Tekno]

Got a new pass on dyno today. Looks like tuner guy used a sniffer too short. This time he did with a longer one and results are way better. 😬

 

[Tekno]

Thanks everyone for the help!

 

[rbabos]

View attachment 611374
Thanks everyone for the help!

Better but 16 AFR in the 90-95 mph range still not acceptable. I don't understand how he can leave it that way?
Ron

 

[Tekno]

Better but 16 AFR in the 90-95 mph range still not acceptable. I don't understand how he can leave it that way?
Ron

I asked him about that one. He told me that sniffer will not give an exact reading. That with oxygen sensor (in his experience) drops 2-3 points. My exhaust is OEM, with the tabs unbaffled slip-ons, so no O2 sensors.
Bike is riding smooth as before (no tuning done today, only the passes w/ longer sniffers), and still less hot that before tuning (and we are 95• w/ 88h today).
I’m totally new on this, but it did made sense to me. 🤷🏻‍♂️

 

[JJrod]

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