maybe i am asking this in the wrong thread, ask me to delete it and i will...but...

as i understand it you are not allowed to modify your destroyer when racing in a circuit, is this true? or to what extent are you allowed to?

 

Basically that is correct mate. If you are running in AHDRA's VRD class they can swap motors with you from what I understand. They are subject to scrutineering from the sanctioning body.

 

Here one of my time slips and this is not my best. So, I will post one first. It is a 9.243 @ 144.09 mph.

 

Here one of my time slips and this is not my best. So, I will post one first. It is a 90243 @ 144.09 mph. View attachment 120335

9.243, nice! :thumb: What is your weight?

 

170 pounds.

 

9.75 after 6 or so passes. Im 210lbs.

 

Well congratulations Scotty!!!!!!! You'll be down in the 8's before you know it.

BTW: I am REALLY HOPING you went thru the postings here on what to check before you started your Destroyer for the first time.

The Water Pump Bolts and Rear Sprocket--etc. I don't want you to have a bad experience because you werrn't aware...

Regards

Jerry

 

New PB 9.71 @128

 

Hi there, I'm based in the UK and have ran a PB of 9.877 @ 135mph at Santa Pod Raceway last year.
This year I've given the Destroyer a sniff of Nitrous (small amount as I'm still running U4.2) and got to 9.56 @138mph again at Santa Pod
Before you ask, I'm approx 235lbs in all my riding gear!
I'm just doing RWYBs, no racing, just playing!!

 

Update:
Lost a bit of weight, now 230lbs!!!!
9.42 / 141
Same venue, a little more juice and now an M/T slick and slightly higher gearing (-2T rear)

 

One thing I will share with you all is the last time I was out I ran the slightly higher gearing (rear spkt -2T) and the M/T #3222 slick.
I read M/T's tyre press recommendations and I ran the tyre @ 8.0 psi. Incredible traction but I think my clutch is doing ALL the slipping now and the tyre is doing none of it!! (I can see this on the RacePak data). I'm already on the RED springs with launch @ approx 8k.

Now to the point of this post: At the top end of the strip on most of the runs the bike got into a bit of a wobble after shutting off (tyre unloading). One of these runs recorded a 0.75 G Lateral woble for a couple of seconds. I tightened the damper more (stock VRXSE) on an earlier run and that resulted in the wobble above!!
....I've loosened it off a bit now, it still wobbles but as we all know time/speed is more important than a few wobbles here and there!!!

 

I have not had a wobble on either of my destroyers on decell. I would tell you to check the balance on your tires.

 

check your front wheel!!!!!!
put a aftermarket steering stabalizer on it!!!
a few wobbles here and there can put you in the hospital.

rich v

 

Hi there.
Wheel balance is OK. No appreciable wobbles last time out. I've just tightened up the steering damper a lot more. I may have to get a proper one!
another update:
I was out @ Santa Pod last w/end and managed a 9.30 @ 142.5.
Not bad I reckon because I'm still 230 llbs!!
60` was 1.45
I didn't use the N2O pressure reg on this meeting (Laws of Physics).
I richened the map slightly (AFR table from 12.5 to 12.0) from 7k thru to 11k to compensate for the slightly bigger N2O jets (but no bigger fuel jets) as I was trying to get the AFR >10.
Still no luck, I may have pressure drop problems with my N2O system on the N2O side as I increased the jets even more but no apparent difference to either AFR, EGT (still runs lower than running the bike without juice, therefore seems safe) or TS (give or take a mph).
I will alter the relationship between solenoid seat & plunger slightly and up the nitrous line & fittings from 4mm to 5mm (2.0 vs 2.5mm ID). This will eliminate any possibliity of pressure drop before my nitrous metering jets.
I'll then drop down a couple of sizes (to be safe) and try again in about 3 wks.
I'm still running the nitrous system manually (using the "Tach Mode" button as I never use the tach in "race mode" anyway) but I'm going to re-wire the system so that it comes in straight away using the existing clutch switch but still using the "Tach Mode" button as a "Dead-Mans-Handle", ...in other words if I hear/feel something I don't like I take my finger off the button and the juice stops!
As we all know 60` is king and as my data keeps telling me that I'm getting the juice on at the earliest of approx 1.3 secs after I leave the line then hopefully it will be quicker and go some way to overcoming my vast bulk!

....more later.

 

Hi there...........
update from Santa Pod yesterday.
I've now run 9.16 @ 143.6 with a 1.37s 60`
AND I weigh 230 lbs!!!!!
I'm now using an ARC bottle heater to keep my system @ 800psi (my choice, normally the pressure setting is around 950psi when using a bottle heater system)
The triggering of the juice is done by the clutch switch circuit (digital 8v signal NO Current available to directly switch a relay) with a user inputed delay.
I started with 0.9s delay (clutch out to full hit of juice) I chose this so as not to overwhelm the clutch which I've got set in a way that takes approx 0.8s to fully engage.
I ended up with the delay @ 0.5 sec with a full hit of approx 60hp.
Basically the plan was and is shim up the clutch (make it more fierce) and offset the natural tendency to bog down with earlier & earlier triggering of the juice. I'm very lucky 'cause I can see what everything is doing from my RacePak data.
The M/T #3222 slick is good, ....doesn't spin (track race prepared with traction compound sprayed on each lane. My tyre pressure @ 8psi)

I haven't spent a massive time on this entry as to be honest there doesn't seem to be that much interest.
Anyway, not sure if the bike will be out again this year......

We'll see!

 

Wow. Nice time. How hard are you launching at? I know all to well about that drop on the race pack off of the line. I have been fighting that with my destroyers. Do you still have the stock destroyer motor?