[mikeinatlanta]

One very good reason to let the clutch out between each shift is so that your revs are well matched to your speed and gear, allowing you to always be in a good position for acceleration if needed. When riding in a spirited fashion, you will be braking for corners and downshifting simultaneously, if you downshift several gears holding the clutch in, you can lose control of the bike when you are letting it out and leaning into the corner.

As far as hurting the engine goes: The rev limiter will tell you when you are reving too high and the engine will certainly tell you when the revs are too low. Otherwise, keep oil and water in the thing and you will not hurt the motor.

 

[mikeinatlanta]

As already stated. Friction zone is the point at which the clutch in neither fully engaged or disengaged. In other words, slipping the clutch. The VROD clutch is very strong and tolerant of spending some time in the friction zone.

 

[mikeinatlanta]

thanks for the video suggestion, i think my problem was not giving it a little throttle before entering the friction zone. i do tend to always keep it just under the friction zone, not fully pulled in, and then letting the friction zone start me off before giving it gas. which is not the right way.

can't wait for the weather to change back to good here and try these tips.

You should give some serious consideration to some rider training.

Short of the training, I suggest that you do the following for friction zone practice.

1. While on a flat surface, rock the bike back and forth using the friction zone and throttle to move forward and your feet to push back. This should be a minimal rocking of about 6".

2. Ride slowly in a straight line while in the friction zone. In a large parking lot, try to ride for at least 100' very slowly in a straight line while staying in the friction zone. Use throttle modulation and friction zone while controlling your speed with the rear brake only. The rear brake will help stabilize the bike at low speed. Do not use the front brake for this. When done correctly, you will have set up a bit of a "bind" in the driveline by simultaneously applying some power and some brake. This takes all slop out of the driveline and stabilizes the bike.

3. Make sharp full 180 degree uturns using the friction zone, throttle modulation, and rear brake. In a large parking lot, make the uturns while staying in the friction zone and modulating the throttle. Control speed with rear brake only. Like the previous low speed exercise, you want a bit of driveline bind by applying continuous power and continuous rear brake. Do not use the front brake for uturns.

The best way to do all of the above in on someone else's bike. Your insurance deductible for a parking lot laydown will more than cover the cost and the coaching you will get is critical.

 

[mikeinatlanta]

^ Said it all and please buy Keith Code motorcycling books. It jumped started my motorcycle career at big time.

Keith Code is a master bike coach, and his books are fantastic.

A note to the OP: Even top professionals have used Keith Code for rider coaching. I would however contend that what he has to offer is most likely beyond what you could reasonably process at this point. I suggest you start with the basic rider class offered by either the MSF or your local Harley dealer. You want the class that uses their bikes. Start in on the Keith Code techniques immediately afterword.

You will see apparent conflicts between what is taught to beginners and the advanced techniques taught by Keith Code and others. This is not really a conflict as it seems. Use the beginner techniques as taught, and transition to the advanced techniques as you progress. Don't let the internet arguments over these trivial issues confuse you.

 

[mikeinatlanta]

good points, but I don't have any problems with this aspect of riding, strangely enough. my issues (that i commented on) is that (being a new rider?) i have a tendency to kill/choke the engine at least once a day when coming off a stop.

i took a riding course to get my certification for the driver's license, but you can't learn everything in a 16 hour course where only 8 hours of it is on a bike...

Killing the engine starting from a stop is a key indicator of issues with use of friction zone. The three exercises I gave you progressively teach you how to properly utilize the friction zone and be very comfortable with it. Failure to properly utilize the friction zone is a primary cause of riders dropping their bike at low speed. Take it or leave it.

 

[mikeinatlanta]

It's great that you are receptive to parking lot exercises. Many reject them due to some sort of ego issue. What they don't understand is that the parking lot exercises expose technique issues that will result in you being spit off the bike at speed.

While conducting rider training in California, we repeatedly saw untrained track day riders cut much quicker times after attending a one day MSF advanced rider course. While that course has nothing to do with track riding, the basic coaching on head turn, downshift for turn, and braking still made a huge difference.


Back to your motor. Two ways to hurt it. Beating on it while cold and lugging. Otherwise, just have fun.