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Discussion Starter #1
Hello from the great NW.

I wanted to share a picture from my brief round of maintenance yesterday.

Details:

I noticed after a 600 miler that I had a small amount of coolant leaking out of the weep hole (7 to 8 position if you have never noticed said hole on the water pumping area).

Decided to order the two gaskets and two o-rings (for details search the forums, the part #s are in several threads). Total cost: $23.00 with shipping included from a random online dealer.

Why did I replace the gaskets??

Take a look at the attached pictures. Unlike a "normal" water pump (I have lost count how many I have replaced on cars during timing belt jobs) that use a fiber/paper based gasket, our bikes use a METAL gasket with a small rubber gasket impregnated in it in certain areas.

What happens when metal is exposed to coolant (and YES there is water in coolant...or at least there SHOULD be in yours unless you forgot to mix DI water into your coolant mix the last time you added/flushed coolant)??

RUST.

On one hand I like this design (not much to scrape off the water pump and cover when I replaced the gaskets). On the other hand....dumb design. It's really clear why I had a leak once you look at the pictures. The pump is fine. No bearing slop, no nicks/etc. If there was a fiber based gasket replacement I would have went that route (I have changed water pumps on cars with 150,000 on the clock that use fiber based gaskets with zero leaks and frankly a functioning water pump...but if you have ever done a timing belt job you know that IS the time to replace the water pump regardless).

Moral of the story: This will likely become a maintenance item as your bike creeps up in age (mine is a vintage 2009).

Tip: You don't need to remove the air box, disassemble hoses from top pipe/etc. Just remove the water pump cover bolts, loosen the hose clamp attached to the cover, twist, and you are in like Flynn.

Whole job took me 2 hours because I was shooting the bull on the phone, answering tech support questions, and scraping the gasket with a close eye like I always do on these. Could have knocked it out in 40 minutes or less if I was in a hurry (read: EASY job!).
 

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Noel
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I've experienced this on my long gone 2004 VRSCA, as you said, quick fix.
 

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Mine is also "spotting" a bit - its been a few years since new coolant too so I've got one more run through the N.C. mountains soon then I'll finally pull the engine, and go thru the whole thing - finally got all the tools, parts, 2nd gear, slipper clutch, bearings, gaskets, etc. - picked up liners & pistons yesterday. No easy task working these Revo's.
Quick fix Freudie1 ! It's small price for us to pay for a water cooled Revo Engine - even Porsche finally figured out that without it you can only do so much building big reliable power. At the end of the day all machines built by man are air cooled, some are just built by smarter people that use liquid as a consistent medium between the hot metal & the cool air. Liquid Cooled Rules !
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Mine is also "spotting" a bit - its been a few years since new coolant too so I've got one more run through the N.C. mountains soon then I'll finally pull the engine, and go thru the whole thing - finally got all the tools, parts, 2nd gear, slipper clutch, bearings, gaskets, etc. - picked up liners & pistons yesterday. No easy task working these Revo's.
Quick fix Freudie1 ! It's small price for us to pay for a water cooled Revo Engine - even Porsche finally figured out that without it you can only do so much building big reliable power. At the end of the day all machines built by man are air cooled, some are just built by smarter people that use liquid as a consistent medium between the hot metal & the cool air. Liquid Cooled Rules !
My point of posting was two fold:

1. It's likely not a bad water pump if you see coolant coming out of the weep hole.

2. It's painfully bad engineering to use this type of gasket for this application. I have never had to replace a water pump gasket on a 15,000 mile engine. This includes beater's such as a 2006 Hyundai Elantra with 150k on the clock (gotta love kid's cars that Dad gets to fix).

At any rate...wanted other's who had this symptom to not panic and just replace the gaskets and o-rings....
 

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Freudie - Yea, I just did a water pump and timing belt on the wife's '02 17 year old Focus with only 105K miles, big front drive sideways engine hassle but yea, the regular gaskets were fine. IMHO I think the chambers around the water pump going to the weep hole contribute to the rust corrosion of the gasket by allowing moisture to condense then engine heat steams the outer gasket along with the attack from the inner side by older coolant. Coating the metal gasket with a non corrosive sealer might help the gasket resist attack and probably a consistent coolant replacement schedule with as you say distilled water will keep the Ph out of the corrosive range. Cheers !
 

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I recommend Evan's waterless coolant for this problem. I'm running it through my rods and it works fine.

The stuff is a PITA to change over, but if done correctly you never have to change it again.
 

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I recommend Evan's waterless coolant for this problem. I'm running it through my rods and it works fine.

The stuff is a PITA to change over, but if done correctly you never have to change it again.
Not the coolant but exposure to the gasket from the weep hole. Washing the bike gets water in there and it sits.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not the coolant but exposure to the gasket from the weep hole. Washing the bike gets water in there and it sits.
Ron
My old gasket had pitting all around the gasket, not just near the weep hole.

I can't speak for the owner previous to me, but I have had my bike for 3 years and have never washed it with water/hose/etc....

It looks to me like the water mixed in with the coolant eventually wins. Still not sure why HD chose a metal water pump gasket. Never seen such a thing.
 

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Just looked at my 1250 case the center water pump drive seal has a weep hole into the center chamber that has two weep holes- one goes fwd to the dead end chamber and one aft to the chamber that has the tell tale weep hole to the atmosphere where we see the seepage. Rarely do I wash my bike with a hose (when I do its on mist) but even if the bike gets caught in the rain water will siphon into the tell tale hole. Any seepage from the drive seal will migrate into all three chambers, and they will always be condensing moisture as well. Porsche certainly designed the metal crush gasket, not H-D, they work very well and it's the same as the alternator cover gasket so IMHO the best bet is to just coat the metal gasket with a non corrosive sealer (maybe a gasket spray) to seal the bare metal edges, scratches etc. and protect it from attack. I use Cycle Logic Engine Ice coolant in my Triumph and off road bikes it's great stuff and I'll switch the Revo over to it or to the Evans waterless like Mromaus mentioned -it sounds even better. These two steps should be the end of short life rusted out WP gaskets. :blahblah: :D
 

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Just looked at my 1250 case the center water pump drive seal has a weep hole into the center chamber that has two weep holes- one goes fwd to the dead end chamber and one aft to the chamber that has the tell tale weep hole to the atmosphere where we see the seepage. Rarely do I wash my bike with a hose (when I do its on mist) but even if the bike gets caught in the rain water will siphon into the tell tale hole. Any seepage from the drive seal will migrate into all three chambers, and they will always be condensing moisture as well. Porsche certainly designed the metal crush gasket, not H-D, they work very well and it's the same as the alternator cover gasket so IMHO the best bet is to just coat the metal gasket with a non corrosive sealer (maybe a gasket spray) to seal the bare metal edges, scratches etc. and protect it from attack. I use Cycle Logic Engine Ice coolant in my Triumph and off road bikes it's great stuff and I'll switch the Revo over to it or to the Evans waterless like Mromaus mentioned -it sounds even better. These two steps should be the end of short life rusted out WP gaskets. :blahblah: :D
Are these gaskets not a cometic brand that have about .001-.002 of viton coating all over, or just the sealing areas? I've not seen one yet, which is why I ask.
Ron
 

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Ron hey - well the gaskets, they all are stamped and say "Germany" on them so probably Porsche sourced - they do have a coating but it's more like a hard black phosphate plating not a cushy Viton so when assembled it probably has micro cracks and rubs that exposes the parent metal. Hence the thought of spraying them with a non corrosive gasket sealer - which would be like the thin Viton coating you speak of - which would flex, stretch and seal any cracks, scratches or rubbed areas. That plus Engine Ice or waterless coolant (We need more research on this) should put this problem to bed. I actually ordered main case sealant from H-D to see what they would send and after a month they sent P/N 99650-02 High Performance Sealant, Non Corrosive, RTV silicone, high elongation - 76 to + 482 degrees F sounds pretty good to light coat gaskets with in this application but a good gasket spray with similar specs may be even easier to apply and it will do the same job, and saving this H-D RTV for the main case parting surfaces. :blahblah: :D
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I’d smear a super thin coating of Hylomar on them before reassembly.
That might keep them in tip-top shape.
It's literally about $20 in parts and 1 hour. I just wanted people to see the real reason for the "bad water pump" weeping scenario.

In other words...silly maintenance item every 10 years of so...so be it.
 

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I'm real glad you let us know freudie1 - it's attention to detail items like this that can save us all from unnecessary recurring maintenance because it wasn't done using all the hard won tips from guys like you here on the site. Bad from stock Transmission output bearings is another hard won tip I've learned - I would have put a bad one in my engine then had to remove the engine again to replace it - in way too few riding miles - and since I'm a mechanic for a living the bike is an escape from that so I for one definitely don't need more and redundant repair work, :banghead: I wanna ride ! :blahblah: Thanks - :D
 

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For those of us who need a little extra help, do you have the part numbers? Also, has anyone done a video of the work? I saw one video and it looked like getting the housing off was not an easy process.

I took my 2006 VRSCR to the dealer assuming my leek was an easy fix. They wanted $600 for parts and labor, plus they came up with another $1K worth of stuff they said should be done on my bike.
 

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My 2005 vrsca with 13,000 miles was spraying a mist around the housing 3 weeks ago, the local H/D dealer ordered me every gasket related to the cooling system. I was traveling 200 miles on the bike so I changed the cover gasket and the housing gasket which slowed it to almost nonexistent, it came apart very easily (little bit of wiggle to get the housing off) but I was tired when I decided to attempt this, so I forgot to change the o rings on the pump, now I'm getting the slightest drip out of the weep hole again, so when I'm alert and rested I'll pull it apart again. I'm mechanically inclined and it took 1/2 hour but I looked at some video earlier and kind of knew what to expect...
 
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