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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased the Walbro GSS342 and the 1250572 filter for it and pulled out the sending unit to do the swap on my 07 DX.

The Walbro pump is basically the same size except for the lower end is not as fat around.

I understand the wiring mod I need to do, no problem.

Here is the question that I have for those of you that have changed out their pump in similar models (I don't know if the pre 07 units were different).

Do you reuse the bottom plastic piece that held the oem pump in? I tried to get it to clip in and it doesn't want to stay clipped in.

Photo of OEM setup:



Photo of OEM pump taken out and walbro unit next to OEM pump along with new filter.



Photo of Walbro unit in the sending unit. Do I try to get that bottom plastic piece to stay on somehow? I will be replacing the plastic flex hose with some good rubber fuel hose. If I can't get the bottom plastic piece to stay clipped in, do I just rely on the rubber hose to support the pump?



Any insight into this would be greatly appreciated. That piece just isn't cooperating with me. The OEM pump will go right back in there and clip up. I think the OEM filter also helps it stay in place somewhat by applying pressure with it's tangs.
 

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This is slightly different than my '06 which has a curved metal bracket that the pump friction fit in. The bottom bracket serves to 1) hold assembly in place while you install it 2) keep adequate bottom clearance so as not to choke off fuel intake. you'll need to fab a way to hold it. another point; replace the stock fuel line with a factory piece. DO NOT use fuel line, do the search here you also need either stock type crimp clamps or screw & nut type in the exact size, again, do the search
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I have searched quite a bit and not found anything really relating to the later models. I was going to use the submersible type fuel hose recommended by Ken. All my other bikes seemed to do fine with the right rubber hose. That plastic line seems like a pain and I can't believe it is just pushed on there with no clamps.
 

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Walbro has much more pressure, worm clamps will NOT hold. MUST be special fuel line for in tank submersible applications. May be more available now, was a real booger when I needed it, the HD piece was best.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, I bought submersible fuel line and fuel injection style clamps. I know not to use the worm type clamps on pressure applications. I am working through it and think I have it sorted out on a fix to get the pump to retain with the oem lower clip holder.

Thanks man.
 

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Yeah, I bought submersible fuel line and fuel injection style clamps. I know not to use the worm type clamps on pressure applications. I am working through it and think I have it sorted out on a fix to get the pump to retain with the oem lower clip holder.

Thanks man.
Old thread but how did you do with the fuelpump? I’m sitting with the same problem


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Old thread but how did you do with the fuelpump? I’m sitting with the same problem


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Dremel tool. You need to do a little surgery on the bottom mount, but it works/fits. This is NOT a plug and play fuel pump, but it's very close. I'll post pictures shortly in an article I am writing (including wiring and part #s).
 

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Hmm the gasket seems a bit larger now
Do you have to change it or


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Hmm the gasket seems a bit larger now
Do you have to change it or


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It's junk. They always are after being used. You have to order a new one from the dealer. DO NOT get the old "Quad seal" style, it's for the older bikes. Look up the part # on Ronnie's HD for a 2009 or newer bike, you'll find it quick. Will probably have to order it though as no dealers seem to stock it (good thing is you probably will never have to open the tank again).

Also, you need to use a tiny bit of sealant on the new oring when you get it (I use the fuel safe grey stuff from Permatex Motoseal #29132....do NOT use the cheapo blue rtv stuff, it is not fuel safe and does degrade (that crap was on my original seal and was a serious mess to clean up as it degraded and was on everything).

Also....I know I keep talking about the wiring, BUT....seriously consider redoing your wiring in tank (and externally). The stock wires you tapped into are not big enough (and are copper clad aluminum!) for the max draw of that pump. Also I recommend soldering all the connections, especially in-tank as you now know it's not fun getting into the pump assembly (and a huge mess).
 

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One more thing, I replaced not only the in-tank wiring, but the wiring that came with the crap wire connector from Walbro. You can remove the pins/wire from that connector carefully using a small screw driver. After that I replaced ALL of the wire from the in-tank connectors at top all the way down to the fuel pump wiring connector itself.

Wire to use: Teflon (otherwise known as PTFE) covered 14 gauge wire! It's going to cost you, but it's the right way to do this. I scored a bundle of milspec wire matching this spec on Ebay. I recommend searching there as it's pricey to buy it anywhere else <----YES it's a bit on the overkill side of things, it's also the right way to do it (and you will never have to deal with stressing the pump or reduced voltage resulting in reduced flow!).

You are going to need appropriate wire terminals as well....I will post the #s and types shortly. The way I did it looks like it was OEM which is what you should be shooting for (read: No crimps/taps/inappropriate wire gauge).

Externally you want to consider upgrading to an isolated circuit made possible by a simple 12v Bosch style auto relay and some decent 14 gauge copper wiring (Teflon not required here of course as you aren't submerging the external wire in fuel).

Once again....buy once cry once (same thing with the work....work hard once, never deal with it again!).
 

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One more thing, I replaced not only the in-tank wiring, but the wiring that came with the crap wire connector from Walbro. You can remove the pins/wire from that connector carefully using a small screw driver. After that I replaced ALL of the wire from the in-tank connectors at top all the way down to the fuel pump wiring connector itself.

Wire to use: Teflon (otherwise known as PTFE) covered 14 gauge wire! It's going to cost you, but it's the right way to do this. I scored a bundle of milspec wire matching this spec on Ebay. I recommend searching there as it's pricey to buy it anywhere else <----YES it's a bit on the overkill side of things, it's also the right way to do it (and you will never have to deal with stressing the pump or reduced voltage resulting in reduced flow!).

You are going to need appropriate wire terminals as well....I will post the #s and types shortly. The way I did it looks like it was OEM which is what you should be shooting for (read: No crimps/taps/inappropriate wire gauge).

Externally you want to consider upgrading to an isolated circuit made possible by a simple 12v Bosch style auto relay and some decent 14 gauge copper wiring (Teflon not required here of course as you aren't submerging the external wire in fuel).

Once again....buy once cry once (same thing with the work....work hard once, never deal with it again!).
holy crap timing! when will you posting this!

Supposedly my 1487 is being broken today/tomorrow, and shipping next week. Ill be needing to replace my fuel pump with the walbro as soon as the pallet of goodies arrives
 
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