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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The fun began today putting the Destroyer engine back together, it's been about 3 years since I had issues with the front head/valve issues. I put this off until now to get many personal and high priority matters taken care of, family matters are always first priority, also matters with close friends the past couple of years have been a high priority as well, then getting on with work and increasing responsibilities the past few years have really diverted my energy and attention away from the Destroyer until now, all these other matters are under control, so here we are & here we go!!!!!!!!!!

This build will involve new CP pistons for the Destroyer spec engine & valve specifications, Dyer Rods, treated ROD bearings, stock main bearings, deleted the counter balancer, had the crank shaft re-balanced to the new pistons & rods, fresh clutch.

I think I am going to put in the revised oil pump found on later model street models.

The previously refreshed heads with new valve springs, guides and valves.

I am taking this project slowly & carefully to prevent careless mistakes which caused my last build to have issues. :banghead:

If I am lucky to get her back together this summer, a few break in passes will follow, I need to drop a lot of weight to get back where I was in 2013, I'll be working on that as we proceed currently at 265#, would like to be at 180 to 200.:barf:
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Pics or it didn't happen.
Hahha, Thanks T-Bagr, are you not able to see the picture in post 2 ?

I linked a photo from the Harley-Davidson sister forum?

this is from my garage:
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
That discussion was concerning mains & head studs.

Jan does his main case studs at 70 Nm, which is about 52 ft lbs.

Scott does his (10mm) head studs torque them to 30 ft/lbs then to 60 ft lbs.

The Dyer ROD fasteners spec sheet suggests a torque of 40 to 60 ft/lbs to achieve a .0062thou stretch, other internet searches mention upwards of 100 ft/lbs may be needed, I think the variances is in the temps & type of lube used on the threads.

I will be doing this later this evening!!
 

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Premium Member
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5,718 Posts
Noel glad to see you are back at it. A lot has changed in my life too but I hope to get up to Epping this year too. Let me know if you need a hand with anything or when you are going up for test n tune I wouldn't mind lending a hand where needed and watching the runs.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Howdy Bryan, good to hear from you again!!

I'll let you know when I get up to Epping for some racing, All expect of this year will be a few break in runs and some re-training to get my skills back on point. if all goes as planned, then a full & regular racing season for 2017 is a certainty.
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Just a quick update on todays progress, total focus on getting the rod's buttoned down correctly.

SamV lent me a bunch of his VROD HD shop tools, I've had custody of them for about 3 years, way too long to holding someone else's equipment!!

The crank hold-down blocks were reassuring in keeping the crank stable while torqueing the those fasteners, as it turned out I needed to put a full 60 ft/lbs on them to get the required 6 thousandths stretch.

The blocks also made it a piece of cake to seat the crank output gear fasteners, 10nm plus 90 degree extra turn.

The crank & rods continue to roll smoothly in the upper case halve, made sure all the mating surfaces are clean and ready for mating to the lower tranny case section, also confirmed the tranny is positioned properly and well lubed with build oil, new main bearings placed in the lower case in preparation for mating.

Tomorrow's task will involve, ensuring all fasteners are accounted for, install ARP main studs, application of case sealant, flip and mate tranny to engine upper case and button them down.



 

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Registered
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3,418 Posts
The fun began today putting the Destroyer engine back together, it's been about 3 years since I had issues with the front head/valve issues. I put this off until now to get many personal and high priority matters taken care of, family matters are always first priority, also matters with close friends the past couple of years have been a high priority as well, then getting on with work and increasing responsibilities the past few years have really diverted my energy and attention away from the Destroyer until now, all these other matters are under control, so here we are & here we go!!!!!!!!!!
:

Congrats on taking care of the family first and being able to now do the bike without looking back.

If only the rest of the narcissistic country had such a mindset. :notworth:
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The cases have been joined, spent some time making dry runs on the procedure, one of the issues that can crop up is that the tranny set can come out when you flip the lower half to mate to the inverted upper half.

The key to preventing this is to ensure the bearing retainers are snugged tight so that they hold onto the gear set's in the case while holding it up-side down! :notworth:

Proofed this method before placing the case sealant around specific mating surfaces that are prone to leakage, only these spots get the gray silicone sealer while all the other surfaces that are under the cover of the primary and alternator covers are allowed to bleed if they might, granted the machined surfaces nearly perfect for naked mating when new, but with every disassembly tiny Knicks and scratches increase the risk of weeping and leakage.

Torqued all 17 case bolts including the 4 (10mm) main case studs that support the crank shaft.

Cleaned up the excess sealant that squeezed out at the joints.

Next operation will be installing the extra deep oil pan & oil pickup on the bottom and heads up top.

 

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Asylum Inmate
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1,117 Posts
Very nice work Noel!
 

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Autobanmod
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9,871 Posts
Glad to see you working on your bike again!
We had a Problem in the Forum Software with uploading photos, this is meanhile fixed.

Are you using Dyers or Carillo Rods? The photo in post #4 above shows Carillo?

Did you adjust the ring gap?
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Thanks Guy's,

Dyer ROD's, on CP Destroyer Spec pistons.

The #1 & #2 rings were a bit tight so I trimmed them back, inside the min/max gap but closer to the MIN. Top was about 0.016, bottom is a bit wider at about 0.020, found the bottoms cut quicker than the tops which have a harder steel.

So far all is going good, taking my time, NO mistakes this round!!!
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Heads & oil pan are on. Verification of shims and clearances post head torque. Only bucket 8 was off, made slight decrease, also shim in bucket 7 slipped out of position during transport or movements in shop over the past 3 years!!!!!! This was my issue during last incident when I was careless about double and triple checking after each major operation, we will not repeat this error again.

 

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Autobanmod
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9,871 Posts
Noel, I've had quite a few slipped shims over the years, also others have experienced this. It is fair to say that it's not uncommon on modified V-Rod engines with high RPM and/or boost.
The valves start flexing and when you hit the RPM limitter the instant cut off is enough to make the shims jump out of place. There are different Approachs to prevent this:
a) stronger valve springs or springs with higher resonance frequency
b) less gap
c) don't run into the limitter, set it higher
d) shorten the valve stem and use thicker shims (probably the best method, VRSC valve stems have more than 0,5mm "beef" on top)
e) Kaari has modified the retainers with O-rings to Keep the shims in place (feedback pending)

item c might be difficult for a destroyer, considering that you are on the limitter all the time before you launch the bike. I don't know the limitter specs for the destroyer or how it's adjusted.

p.s. photo uplad should work again, please try
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for confirming my observation, I'm interested in hearing how the test goes. Photo attached via Android app is working well!
 

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Noel
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4,581 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Cams are in and properly timed, starter reduction gears and alternator rotor and cover are in place. Output Sprocket & clutch basket with clutch pack installed with all buttoned down to specified torque values, nice thing about doing this in the engine stand is that I can use other techniques to keep the shafts from moving using a breaker bar on the crank output gear

Primary chain & triple sprocket bump on case & triple sprocket timed to front piston being at TDC





 

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Autobanmod
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9,871 Posts
Noel, we can't see these photos which you originally posted on the other HD site. You can see them because they are in your Cache but we can't from here. :)
 
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