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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been reading on here for weeks now. That’s for all the expertise!

I finally bought my first V-Rod. A 2002 VRSCA. Just what I’ve wanted for years. Previous owner only put 3,500 miles on her in the last 8 years. It just sat really. Rode her around town a little for a couple weeks, ran perfect! No engine noise, just nice sounding pipes.
Took it to my local dealer (Thunder Tower, Elgin, SC), paid for an inspection and fluid change. Started noticing slight “valvetrain” noise. Towed her to the beach. Now I’m noticing a quite loud ticking noise from the front cylinder valve cover. Took her to the Myrtle Beach dealer and their service is booked up. The service guy did listen to it and said something ain’t quite right. So I have a new to me bike on a trailer. Anything simple I can check? Maybe a tensioner or something stupid?
 

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See if you are running topless. My 2002 made noise and as soon as I went to Amsoil it stopped. Dealer change would have been a blend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not topless. I put in a K&N the day I got her. True about the oil type. But previous owner had it dealer serviced also...
Any type of legit oil additive I should try? I guess the Myrtle Beach dealer service guy (that was very helpful) would have told me about something like that tho!?
What is weird is it didn’t start tapping until I got oil/filter change... hmmm
 

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Yes, get it checked out. Brand of oil or breather config won't change what's going on in the front valve train. No idea what it could be unless a valve briefly stuck and the shim fell out. Is it exhaust valve or intake valve area in the cover? Check with stethoscope.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
True. It’s the very front of the bike. So I’m guessing exhaust since the exp port is right there?
Bought a stethoscope yesterday and it’s def coming from the front left of the valve cover (looking at bike from the left side)...

I’ve called around everywhere here at Myrtle Beach and nobody will touch this thing except dealer that’s booked for a week of more... ?
 

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check secoundry chain adjusters,add a shim to each.
At 3500 miles :hmm: I would lean more toward exhaust leak. Making sure that flange isn't cracked. giving engine credit for not having any real mechanical issues.Unless its been abused. Then again maybe cam lobe issue that went to long w/o a initial valve adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry for lack of info. She has about 13,500 on her now. The second owner only put 3,500 on her. She had a dealer valve job done at 10k or so. I have the records.
 

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Sorry for lack of info. She has about 13,500 on her now. The second owner only put 3,500 on her. She had a dealer valve job done at 10k or so. I have the records.
Not enough miles to warrant any of that, other then a first valve lash check, however if the dealer got their hands in it, I'd be checking it over closely. Shims and secondary tensioner spec.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Not enough miles to warrant any of that, other then a first valve lash check, however if the dealer got their hands in it, I'd be checking it over closely. Shims and secondary tensioner spec.
Ron[/QUOTE]

That’s all I meant was a valve lash check. I think the document says shims were required in some of them.
Again, my service manual and tools are at home. Would it be worth it to take off the front cylinder valve/chain cover to at least look around? I can go to an auto parts store and buy the necessary tools to take a peek...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Valve noise after oil change!? Ummm? What’s going on here?

I tore into her and found some weird findings!!!???

1-Timing is off!?
2-Weird “gap” on sprocket bolt. Is something wallowed out?
3-All valve lash measurements are within spec. HD dealer just did it +-3,000 miles ago.

Did this thing jump a tooth or two?

I’ve been reading about the secondary chain tensioner and I don’t have the HD tool to measure slack. Is there another way? BTW. All the chains seem tight inspecting from under the valve covers.

Did this thing jump time?

What y’all think? She was running fine, just had a tick all the time... thanks!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
After MUCH reading on here and YouTube, I’m beginning to wonder if I backed the bike up in gear and let out on clutch. Especially when backing off my trailer. I’ve read it can jump time pretty easy that way. And I’m pretty sure it’s jumped time (see pics and video). Let me know your opinions on the timing please! ?

If that’s the case, can’t I simply remove the sec tensioner and put the cams in the right place? By looking at the front cylinder intake and exhaust cams they would both need to be rotated a little to make TDC and timing marks match up...
 

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After MUCH reading on here and YouTube, I’m beginning to wonder if I backed the bike up in gear and let out on clutch. Especially when backing off my trailer. I’ve read it can jump time pretty easy that way. And I’m pretty sure it’s jumped time (see pics and video). Let me know your opinions on the timing please! ?

If that’s the case, can’t I simply remove the sec tensioner and put the cams in the right place? By looking at the front cylinder intake and exhaust cams they would both need to be rotated a little to make TDC and timing marks match up...
Do u not have a service manual? It answers the question u are asking. If its out as u say remove chain and time it. As for the gap in that area of the bolt. I have never paid any attention when doing my valve adjustments. But it does not look normal. Is the bolt loose? Could be where your noise is coming from. Just remove it and inspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the reply Knight Rod Rob.

I have the Clymers manual. But just realized I can get the official one off eBay and I ordered one last night!

-So after some research, and YouTube, the weird bolt space on the EX sprocket is normal. However, I just left my Hd dealer and they said the timing is definitely off! I must have backed it off the trailer or something and it jumped time (can’t recall but possible). Maybe even while trailering it in gear?

Dealer said I can mark chains and sprockets where they NEED to be and following the service manual procedure rotate cams in the correct positions. Being careful NOT to allow slack in the chain or let it move on triple sprocket.
What ya think?
Still puzzles the sh1t outta me how and when it jumped time?! Especially this easily when I don’t remember rolling backwards fast and DUMPING the clutch in gear... Hmmm

Thanks again man!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Done son! Now to put all this sh1t back together! Lol

So I positioned the cams basically at 10:00 and 2:00 so there wouldn’t be any tension against valve springs. Then marked the chains and sprockets where they needed to be (both cams one tooth off). Removed cam bearings (one cam at a time) and wiggled the sprocket where I wanted them. Reinstalled tensioner. Checked timing like 10 times. All ok!
Thanks for your help!
Still bothers me not sure how this happened! And this easy.
 

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