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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just completed my valve lash check for my 20,000 mile check up the rear cylinder both exhaust and intake needed adjustment since the 10,000 mile check, both exhaust valves changed approx. .015" and both intakes about .012'" since the last inspection has anyone else completed this check with results anything like this, It concerns me how my vavle seats will look at 50,000 miles?
 

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SNAFU
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It's interesting that you didn't see any wear in the 1st 10k miles. What is the total lash measurement?

BTW, It also looks like they supply shims in a range equal to 0.0463". If you continue to experience the same amount of wear you'll run out of shims @ 60K miles :(

On the flip side see this thread about a high mileage V-Rod. http://www.v-rodforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1584
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry there was about the same amount of wear in the first 10,000 I had the trusty HD dealer do it the first time and I did not want to spend another $438 to have them do it and I felt I could accomplish it as easy as them and as good!! It appears to me the rear cylinder must not cool as well as the front. I worked on aircrasft engines for several years and the rear cylinders valves and seats wore much faster than the front ones. Yes I seen the 80,000 + it would be interesting to see if he had his lash checked and what teh measurements were. Withthat kind of mileage he would have to had them checked every three months +!!!!!1
 

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Color me Gone
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I must be missing something here Bob, are those amounts of change in mm or inches? Here is why I ask.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I measured them both ways but because of the american way I posted them in inches. It is alarming, one thing I have to hope for is that the first measurement taken by a stealer oh sorry a dealer was incorrect. I know it was the first bike that they did !!!!!!!! The front cylinder all four valves were within limits and showed at the most .oo6 wear. I am going to boroscope the rear cylinder tomorrow and see if there is anything unusual going on. I bought the extended warranty so I may get to see how HD handles this if they continue to wear as they appear to have.
 

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SNAFU
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Here's a thought, The stealer only looked at the rear since the front is a pain in the a** to get to and screwed up the adjustment??????

Just a thought.
 

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wow.... you guys are extra nervous... lol

First, the valve las specs are:
Intake = .220mm +/-.025mm (range: .195-.245mm)
Exhaust = .320mm +/-.025mm (range: .295-.345mm)

Second, there are were 48 shims available at the beginning, in increments of .025mm. The sizes ran from 1.825mm thru 3.00mm (the '04 parts manual shows they have dropped the largest 7 sizes)

THIRD, the same amount of wear does NOT continue and the greatest wear occurs at break-in. This is why it needed to be checked at 10k miles initially... and we may see that get longer as H-D reviews the results over the first few years.)

Also... it is difficult to determine the initial wear as you would have had to check the lash when the bike was brand new to figgure that out.

Finally... mjw930, the engine needs to be 'dropped' to get either head's cam covers off, so its not really much more difficult to do one over the other. The only additional work for the front, is removing the battery, the side covers, and the coolant overflow tank. No biggie.
 

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Autobanmod
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To whom it may concern
Here are the figures of my 10.000 miles inspection, values in mm before the adjustment:
Front cylinder Exhaust L: 0,33 R: 0,40
Front cylinder Intake L: 0,23 R: 0,22
Rear cylinder Exhaust L: 0,32 R: 0,32
Rear cylinder Intake L: 0,28 R: 0,23

They had to lower the engine down to make the necessary adjustments, it was a lot of work.
Price was acceptable.

J-D
 

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Color me Gone
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Jan it's numbers like your that concern me about accurate measurements being made either while new or while being serviced at the dealer. it looks as though they are saying three of your valves had to great of clearance. Both front exhaust and one rear intake. In theory the valves should never have a greater clearance if they were set correct from the factory. As the valves seat the gap should close up or get smaller as the valve face or seat is either compressed or pulls up further into the head. So when I see numbers that indicate the opposite it makes me wonder who missed the measurement at which time.

That is only my opinion.

Max
 

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Autobanmod
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Only one of the front exhaust valves needed adjustment.
As the shims are only available in certain steps it is understandable that factory settings sometimes are on the edge to the higher limit. Also consider that all moving parts (also the shim seats and the tappets) are subject to slight wear especially on a new engine.
In this moment at only 10.000 miles there is absolutely nothing to worry about in my opinion.
 

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I have heard that the rear cylinders on water cooled engine do not run hotter,but I beg to differ.On the line with a heat gun"Lazer" there is always a difference and the Plug in the rear is the one that has had problem"melted electrode,broken porcelain".I'm sure that is why the Race Tuner lets you adjust each one INDIVIDUALLY! :2cents:
 

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Color me Gone
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Jan yours were not a problem at all and very close to spec, I was simply stating that I would expect the clearance to be on the low side and not the high side.

Max
 

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During my 10k service call the mech said he had to redo all the valves and he but in new shims. Not sure if that is good or not.
 

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Autobanmod
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It depends on the point of view.
It sure is good for someone...what were the measurement results? You have a right to ask for that.
What did you pay for that inspection?
 

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During my 10k inspection, nothing had to be adjusted.
 

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Vette,
Dam you must have a pretty sweet shop at home.Don't you need to drop the motor to do the valves?I only Wish I had the Patient's to learn and do that! :notworth:
 

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Nothing special at my lonely two car garage. Just a bike lift and some strategically placed boxes, loosen the front mount and everything works out easy.

The first time it probably took me 8 hours to do it and the oil change, at 20k it only took 5 hours.
 

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8hrs!What is your Mechanical Backround?That can't be your first time"valve job" on anything car/bike?Anyways thats pretty cool in my book! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
valves measurement

I have to agree with Vett that it is not a hard job just time consuming. A couple of tools really help ball end allen wrenchs and a long taper set of feeler gauges work well. If theres no adjustment needed its pretty simple. If you have to put in a different shim then you have to watch out for the cams to slip in the chain.
 
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