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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Once again I need to question SM methods and or HD wisdom. The torqueing procedure makes no sense on the top clamp. There is not tube in the top bolt area to support the torque for clamping. It will create an uneven gap, as in the gap will be tighter at the unsupported area then the lower bolt where the tube is supported. What's the deal with this? Having only the lower or one like the inverted Muscle or Dx would make sense. Torquing that top bolt just creates a tapered hole. WTF, I said, as well as a few other choice words.
Ron
 

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VRSC est -03
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Two inches saved on each fork leg = money saved.
Well, at least the tree looks waay better compared to the 2012 up...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Two inches saved on each fork leg = money saved.
Well, at least the tree looks waay better compared to the 2012 up...
Except for the ones that cracked and that top bolt torque thing. So, am I to accept that, and look away? It's just not in my nature. LOL. Do they all look that way torqued up? Even the SM torque procedure is wrong in my view. Bottom bolt in the top tree is the clamping force if setting the top of the fork tube at the front of bore to spec to make use of those plastic covers. The top bolt should have a much lower torque value to keep the gap straight and the bore uniform and straight and the gap even, as I see it.
Ron
 

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When you have dropped your front end from enduro to streetbike it starts to have more sense :D

I think that uneven clamping is there acceptable since forks will go only tighten direction if they come in. Torq specs won't close gap in the top. Only make hole little tapered from up end.
 

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VRSC est -03
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After I raised the fork legs - top nut leg just below upper pinch bolt - the gap is now straight and even. Raising fork legs will alter the steering geomethry, make it a bit more responsiv...
I also bought a new genuine H-D lower tree - upgraded with a steel stem not aluminium like the "early" ones.
 

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Yea it's a Form over Function thing Ron, style executed by H-D. :LOL: Like mentioned you can lower the triple clamps on the fork tubes 10-20MM ( like quite a few guys here have ) which lowers the front end and puts more fork tube in that area. My bike is on the jack now to replace the steering head bearings and Traxxion cartridge installs so I'll get new fork caps with adjustable preload, compression in left fork, rebound in right fork so new caps may be taller to take up some of that empty space, but I'll lower 10MM anyway. I should get new lower triple clamp like Knut J did I'm thinking not cheap like $ 400, but I did pick up a new upper clamp on ebay for $ 70 since mine got damaged by a tie down strap before I bought it. (y):cool:
 

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Is that where they have cracked rc4man ? I heard the R triple clamps cracked but I never knew where - it makes sense now if guys are applying the same torque to the upper tc bolt and bending it in like Ron was saying - guess that's where Form interferes with Function - the cool looking horizontal machined triples on the R actually causing their own cracks since H-D didn't think this situation through and require less torque on the upper bolt in the SM - 😕
 

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EXCELSIOR
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Yeah, from the looks of those I've actually seen they appear to be cast which would make them more prone to cracking.
I noticed a similar issue with the early 70's Triumph Hurricane where they needed more front end height to help the triple right side exhaust clear and give the bike a more chopped look. Instead of using longer fork tubes they made new cast trees which they offset 1". A guy I knew that had one used to like to wheelie and during a tune up I did for him I noticed the top tree had a crack in it.
 
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