Why would anyone want to raise the RPM range while using a turbo?
OEM cams are good for 9500 RPM with peak HP at about 8300 RPM, in my honest opinion this is absolutely sufficient and other cams will not make the setup better.
You guys abroad with 60 MPH speed limit will never have problems with exhaust gas temperature like I have when going mad on the Autobahn, there is no need for you to reduce valve overlap.
If you want to go faster on the 1/4 mile, or win the dyno contest then simply raise the boost.
More lift/duration and less overlap will result in more cam accelleration, hence more stress on valve train, combined with higher RPM... you do the math.
Autobahns are short slow & come to the western U.S. !
Jan Dirk, the original Autobahn mad max Turbo wildman has spoken ! JD tell him about your double intake cam setup for the Turbo that you did that was pretty innovative - so whats "cam accelleration" - the boost pressure on the valves allowing them to get ahead of the cam lobe a little ?
F.Y.I. Jan Dirk - yes, we do have some low speed limits closer to cities in the U.S. but in more open areas amazingly none of the 70 Mph speed limit signs have ever stopped my Street Rod from going 130+ at will. You might not realize it but out west you could go 190 Mph easy on a bike that can pull it - we've got minivans doing 100 Mph on the straightaways between Nevada & California and there are open roads that stretch as far as the eye can see out in the desert begging Turbo V Rods, H2's, Busa's etc. Is it legal ? No but that doesnt stop anyone. We have places to use all the power you can stuff into a V Rod, hell "Super Kaz" finally got a Turbo V Rod up to 200 Mph at Bonneville after he blew a couple engines up - probably high EGT but no speed limit signs there - :blahblah:
Cam acceleration means the acceleration of the masses of valve, valve spring and tappet. The more lift you have, the steeper the cam curve and the higher the aceleration, same if you keep the lift but have "longer duration" (I mean area under the lift curve) while keeping the original opening / closing timing.
High acceleration means high forces and stress, worst case it can lead to "jumping" valves hitting the piston or valve hammering into the seat or broken springs. I'm not saying that this is what will happen when you buy aftermarket cams, its just a general statement / consideration.
Streedrodracer that's a valid objection you bring up there, lol.
When I started turbocharging my V-Rod some 15 years ago , I contacted Schrick Camshafts here in Germany, a big OEM supplier, and sent in my stock intake / exhaust camshfts to have them measured and to get suggestions for new profiles suitable for turbo charging.
They replied that the best (economical / technical) solution would be to swap intake and exhaust cams and adjust the lobe centers. I documented everything here on this forum, it's still there. https://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=4650641
I just finished my 4 intake cam engine a few months ago, with the help and advise from Jan-Dirk. It is amazing how it totally changed the characteristics of this engine. Now I need the 32 tooth front pulley.
JJrod you talking much more low end torque & hp - "fatter under the curve" at lower RPM ? Yea, Turbos love bigger front pulleys to get that loaded engine exhaust pressure up to spool the Turbo - I'm putting a steel 30 tooth on my N/A Stg 2 1250 engine but it weighs 3.5 Lbs ! - I've seen the Aluminum ones out there but they're subject to wear if not hard coated with and bending if the belts too tight - I think Fitzgerald's making a new 32 Tooth I'm assuming it's steel - probably better safe than sorry ?
I am still breaking it in (have put 235 miles on so far)The bike pulls from 2k up without lugging in 5th gear with a 30 tooth HDI pulley. Turbo @ 8 lbs boost and between 3200-3500 to 6500 RPM's is just crazy in second gear. I had to back pedal the bike. At first I thought it was the clutch slipping(slipper clutch installed) until I seen the speedometer also rising with the Tach. At 70-75 MPH the bike is effortless (even riding 2 up) requiring minimal throttle, just above Idle to maintain speed @ 4200-4500 RPM. The Stampeding I use to have @ 5500 rpm is gone and the pull is very linear, which is why I wanted a 32 tooth pulley. I also have reserves on using a aluminum pulley. I believe that the Fitzgerald's 32 tooth pulley is hard anodized aluminum. Which is why I haven't pulled the trigger yet.
Whos running with this kit right now? Any more mods? Put a picture of your bike, dyno and mods in this thread and maby we can help each other out on spare parts, more mods and finding more horsepower
Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk
In the process of my very own turbo installation to my 2014 vrscdx.
Have been peicing together parts for quite some time now and decided to pull the bike off road about a month ago and get into it.
I have been learning a lot and going useful information on this forum.
hey guys, wondering how many of you with turbo vrods are running your crank case breathers?
Is it OK to vent the breathers into a separate catch can or to atmosphere not plumbed into the plenum? Perhaps some check valves to maintain negative pressure.
I'm building my own kit and putting...