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RIP ALEX
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone else having issue with their turbo rusting? I've had my turbo off, 3 times now polishing it. Everytime I wash it, or it gets wet from rain, the rust returns right away. Turbo works great, but for 5K, I sure wish it would look decent.
 

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shiny is good
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yep,, that looks like crap all right, where did you get it? no warranty?
 

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RIP ALEX
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its a trask setup, bought it through max
 

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Color me Gone
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Mine is 14 months old, I ride in the rain and everything else and mine looks almost new. What does the rest of the bike look like? I see you live up north do they throw a lot of salt on the road in your area?
 

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RIP ALEX
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
They do salt the roads, but the turbo was put on well after salting season was done. Rest of the bike looks fine. Ill get a side pic of it in a bit.
Mind you, I took this all off and cleaned it up not even 2 weeks ago
 

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Color me Gone
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v10sport said:
They do salt the roads, but the turbo was put on well after salting season was done. Rest of the bike looks fine. Ill get a side pic of it in a bit.
Mind you, I took this all off and cleaned it up not even 2 weeks ago
From what I understand if they salt the roads the salt is still there all year long. Cars I see come from your area are totally rusted through in many areas in just a couple of years.
 

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v10sport said:
They do salt the roads, but the turbo was put on well after salting season was done. Rest of the bike looks fine. Ill get a side pic of it in a bit.
Mind you, I took this all off and cleaned it up not even 2 weeks ago
Yuk. You need something like Boeshield T-9 sprayed on that. Water, heat, and metal are not a good combination! If you ran a hot turbo in the rain and did not fully dry when done riding or left in rain after riding, etc. you would get the look you have in 1-2 nights (no need for 2 weeks). Then, how you removed the old rust plays a real big factor. Move down here - it never rains :D.
 

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Color me Gone
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Here is a quick comparison, 14 months and 20k miles.

I'll see about getting Nick to replace the pieces but not sure what your going to do to stop that kind of rust. Once the rust breaks the barrier of the metal there is nothing that will keep it from eating metal up short of grinding it out and sealing it. Many of the items are direct from garrett like the waste gate solenoid. High temp paint might be the only option, I don't think Jetcoat can even do them without taking them apart.
 

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RIP ALEX
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here are current pics of the bike.
Just nticed the ceramic coated header pipes is rusting also
 

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Color me Gone
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It might just be me but when I look at the lower bolts in your clutch cover they look heavily oxidized from something and your rear brake rotor looks rusted, the bolts going into it look a mess. It looks like corrosion all around your rear brake switch also. It might be the pictures but it looks like you deal with a great deal of corrosion. It also looks like rust in your frame around were the regular muffler bracket would be.

I took the liberty of taking your photo which makes it hard to tell and circle the areas that IMHO show signs of corrosion. You tell me if I'm wrong with all of them but my 6 year old V-rod doesn't look anything like that in those areas.
 

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RIP ALEX
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There is no corrsion on the bolts on the clutch cover. May be a bit dirty, not corrosion. The rear brake switch got some polsihing compound on it from polishiing near by parts, the rear rotor has been heated up, were the muffler bracket was is chips in the frame. They were there when I pulled the orginal exhaust off.
 

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Color me Gone
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v10sport said:

Here are some pics, sorry the bike isn't clean. Been a month since I washed it. Just passed 60k miles.
 

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Color me Gone
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Chris in all fairness people should know that at no time was Nick or I made of aware of any issue with rust until you made this post. You PMed me and made some claim of bias only after you made the post. You got upset that I picked apart your picture but be honest, take close ups of the areas like I circled and tell me there isn't a corrosion problem taking place with your bike. I honestly want to help you get the rust on the turbo resolved but if what I see taking place on the rest of your bike is what the bike goes through even a new setup would be a short term fix. I don't know anyone that makes a unit that is bullet proof enough to withstand heat, water and corrosion without proper treatment. Each area and environment has it's own particular demands and requirements. IMHO
 

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Max said:
It might just be me but when I look at the lower bolts in your clutch cover they look heavily oxidized from something and your rear brake rotor looks rusted, the bolts going into it look a mess. It looks like corrosion all around your rear brake switch also. It might be the pictures but it looks like you deal with a great deal of corrosion. It also looks like rust in your frame around were the regular muffler bracket would be.

I took the liberty of taking your photo which makes it hard to tell and circle the areas that IMHO show signs of corrosion. You tell me if I'm wrong with all of them but my 6 year old V-rod doesn't look anything like that in those areas.
You missed the spot under the seat... :D At first I did the same thing and actually the inside of the front brake caliper (left side) made me think the bike was a piece of corrosion - really looked like aluminum surface corrosion from crap water/acid rain; but, then I thought maybe this thing is just dirty. Hard to tell from pictures. I do know the Trask is pretty rusty though as could be expected based on bike care... Again, so hard to tell based on those pictures.
 

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Max said:
Chris in all fairness people should know that at no time was Nick or I made of aware of any issue with rust until you made this post. You PMed me and made some claim of bias only after you made the post. You got upset that I picked apart your picture but be honest, take close ups of the areas like I circled and tell me there isn't a corrosion problem taking place with your bike. I honestly want to help you get the rust on the turbo resolved but if what I see taking place on the rest of your bike is what the bike goes through even a new setup would be a short term fix. I don't know anyone that makes a unit that is bullet proof enough to withstand heat, water and corrosion without proper treatment. Each area and environment has it's own particular demands and requirements. IMHO
I think he should clean his front calipers and rear rim then take some new close-up shots. That would really tell what kind of conditions his bike has seen.
 

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Color me Gone
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RODent said:
I think he should clean his front calipers and rear rim then take some new close-up shots. That would really tell what kind of conditions his bike has seen.
It really doesn't matter what condition his bike is in. I want to help him get the matter resolved. But as I mentioned unless something changes or a different method or type is used he will have the same problem again very shortly. I will admit that when I ride in the rain I do dry my bike when I get done. I don't live in an area that uses salt so I am much better off. The question isn't if the turbo has rust it does, the question isn't if Nick will stand behind it, I'm sure he will. The question is how do we stop it in the future considering how fast it came on this bike.

Bryan who also lives up north had a problem with rust in the center section of the turbo. But he had his I think about a year and never had this kind of corrosion on his unit and I'm sure his roads see the same salt.
 

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Max said:
It really doesn't matter what condition his bike is in. I want to help him get the matter resolved. But as I mentioned unless something changes or a different method or type is used he will have the same problem again very shortly. I will admit that when I ride in the rain I do dry my bike when I get done. I don't live in an area that uses salt so I am much better off. The question isn't if the turbo has rust it does, the question isn't if Nick will stand behind it, I'm sure he will. The question is how do we stop it in the future considering how fast it came on this bike.

Bryan who also lives up north had a problem with rust in the center section of the turbo. But he had his I think about a year and never had this kind of corrosion on his unit and I'm sure his roads see the same salt.
The point I was making about bike condition is if the aluminum is having a reaction with the rain where he lives (you could tell by the parts I suggested) then he is going to have issues no matter what and anything Trask does will not matter. I have seen similar rusting on exhausts caused by acid rain from nearby factories, etc. I still suggest boeshield t-9 as a potential solution. I'll bail out now :).
 

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Color me Gone
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Since this was made public before anything was said in private I thought I would share with you the PM I just sent Chris.

"Chris, I spoke with Nick. Take any and all of your system off that has corrosion or rust and box it up. Nick will either replace or recover any and all pieces that have suffered.

The address to send the pieces is

CUSTOM PERFORMANCE
21601 N 3rd Ave Suite D
Phoenix, AZ 85027

If you prefer to wait until a little more of the riding season is over before you send it that is fine. Just let me know.

Max"
 

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RIP ALEX
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Max I didnt post this to bash anyone. In hindsight I should have just PM'd you instead of posting this thread and sending you the link. I never doubted that this could be resolved. You and Nick have provided me great customer service in the past. Two reasons I posted this thread 1. to vent some 2. Find a solution/prevention tips fom this happening again. I do ride rain or shine.
Rodent thanks for the tip on boeshield t-9. Never heard of it before.
Sorry if this caused any uproar.
Back to your normally scheduled program
 
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