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I agree what Ron said. I have measured my crank journals everytime when it is open but used same size bearings that is stamped there (colour code). But everytime used new bearings for sure. I would not even think of using old bearings there.

Last time I couldn't obtain them from Vreeland and I bought them here and coated here as well. Not sure how important coating is after all. I had to buff them great bit to get in tolerance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #102 ·
Got the engine out and just finishing up some drilling for the through bolts on my engine stand to connect them together. Going to dig into the engine this week, get the specs on the shells and make an order with Vreeland's.
 

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2003VRR - So its always a 100 % replacement on main bearing shells if the cases are split, as you're probably aware - rods only when removed from the crank. Tranny bearings ? I would replace all when gears are removed to install straight cut 2nd gear, as mukle said, and that's my plan. Unless you get metal in your oil you should be able to run the same tranny bearings for a few re-freshings of your race engine. If a puller is used on the OD of the bearings it can stress out the races and balls or needles, cages, so yea keep them for a V Rod necklace or shop lamp :D ! But seriously we can always find new ones somehow - but if they come off easily you may be able to re-use them after a careful inspection, doubtful I would think. There are companies that do amazing inspections of turbine engine bearings so they can be deemed safe and re-used. We just spent 30K to replace just a labyrinth seal on a compressor shaft bearing in an APU - if we had to replace the bearing ? Another 60K in bearing, other parts for a full engine teardown. These V Rods are about as cheap to play with as anything out there except maybe a GM 350 or LS 1,2,3 engine but our easy H-D OEM parts sourcing days are going away. Buy now or no complaining allowed in the future. (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #104 ·
so yea keep them for a V Rod necklace or shop lamp :D ! Buy now or no complaining allowed in the future. (y):cool:
Ha! Right! I'm prolly gonna start buying up parts here soon. I just bought 10 quick picks to Mega Millions (of course I slept through the Friday buy for the $1B).

Actually I saw a guy making all sorts of neat things out of old parts...a sprocket/cam toothbrush holder for instance.
 

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Actually I saw a guy making all sorts of neat things out of old parts...a sprocket/cam toothbrush holder for instance.
Cam Sprocket Toothbrush Bolder ? NICE !! How about a short roller bearing finger ring ? A Heavy Cylinder head lamp holder ? Crank Bearing Shell Wind Chime ? Crank Bearing Shell Water Wheel ? Head pipe return water fountain for the pool ? 3.6 Lb steel forward pulley shuffleboard disc ? ( Teflon Base ) :ROFLMAO: (y):cool:
 

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Let the games begin....buy an economy pack of razor blades to start scraping gasket material. My least favorite part of engine building (the cleaning).

Get a GOOD torque wrench if you don't have one already (My favorite is the digital one from Harbor Freight....it's actually accurate as many have verified over the years!).

Sorry to preach (I enjoy aspects of this part of our endless hobby).....plastigauge for the win! Use that to verify when at all possible. If nothing else, it's good piece of mind (I plastigauge engines that are assembled by "experts" and find interesting results often).
 

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Discussion Starter · #108 ·
The games: The rusty parts around the water pump seem to be from rusty bolts after seepage from the rubber neck. Hehehe he said rubber neck. These didn't get loaded in any particular order.


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Alloy wheel Wheel


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Crankset Motor vehicle


I made this tensioner holder tool from an allen wrench.

Automotive tire Automotive design Tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part


Automotive engine gasket Auto part Machine Metal Engineering



Light Black Gas Household hardware Engineering


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive wheel system Auto part


Automotive tire Automotive wheel system Camshaft Engineering Auto part



Automotive lighting Automotive design Automotive exterior Audio equipment Headlamp


No metal in the oil pan! Yay!

Amber Font Glass Metal Art
 

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Discussion Starter · #109 ·
More photos of engine disassembly. Then move on to the transmission and splitting the cases. I'll have to give everything a good cleaning.

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood


Watch Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive design Automotive exterior


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Automotive design Auto part


Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive lighting Bicycle part


Audio equipment Automotive engine gasket Film camera Gas Machine


Automotive tire Gas Audio equipment Automotive wheel system Machine
 

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Really looking forward to tearing down and rebuilding my 1130 to a 1250+ Stg 2 Revo 2003VRR - got the fuel injection replaced on my SUV, gotta clean up and sell my rental house I've owned for 38 years, fix a few more private jets and I'm retired, enjoying what you're doing there ! - great fun to be a spectator in your Revo S/C build - I'll be sure to chime in and be as annoying as possible !! Keep up the good work !! (y)(y):D
 

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Must have have them replaced at the dealer at 1 point. Maybe during a dealer Lash check they were replaced?
 

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Ron - I don't know but every photo I've seen has those cam lobe marks visible it the light is just right - I just thought they were all like that - you think earlier cams were not like that ? Or are those reground S/Eagle cams ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #115 ·
So far everything seemes pretty good and normal to me 👍You told perhaps but how much this was driven?

Under the oil pump you will find 3/8" square in the crank. It will be handy in holding and rotating.
The bike had 12K miles on it. Thanks for the advices about the square in the crank!
 

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Discussion Starter · #116 ·
every photo I've seen has those cam lobe marks visible it the light is just right
This bike had a stock tune and Screamin' Eagle pipes and a K&N air filter. I say stock tune because it cranked a bunch before firing. Ran fine, but hard starting. I can see those cam lobe marks, too. I doubt it ever was in for valve lash. Not SURE but I doubt it. I'll have to take another look at the cams on my other set of 2003 heads I have to se if they look similar. I know that one was never serviced before I took it apart.
 

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Ron - I don't know but every photo I've seen has those cam lobe marks visible it the light is just right - I just thought they were all like that - you think earlier cams were not like that ? Or are those reground S/Eagle cams ?
Have to agree, I thought they were all like that. My 03 had never been touched before I got my dirty hands on it and the cams look just like that.
 

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Have to agree, I thought they were all like that. My 03 had never been touched before I got my dirty hands on it and the cams look just like that.
Good to know. I did more digging and seems that is the case, unless 02 was different. Any regrinds or aftermarket those lines are missing. I find it hard to believe HD would do that process unless there was a prior issue with spalling. So, how important is it, since aftermarket cams are smooth? You can only go so far with heat treatment, which the cam supplier could have taken care of, rather then lobe grooving. Just shit I ponder. :ROFLMAO: As you know pics in the SM sometimes carry over from early years. This pic is out of my 13 SM and shows smooth lobes. No idea what the original pic year references.
Ron
 

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Perhaps it has something do with the mass production. They want to save time, energy, tools, coolants, basically everything which has affect to costs. Nice smooth versions to SM but of course 😅. Do not believe it has not anything to do with heat treatment because regrinds are smooth.
 
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