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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Hi VRoid09:

Thank you for your story and describing your experiences with the TTS-Performance S/C.

As you will be able to see from the following updated and revised build sheet, I am rebuilding this bike from the cases up. New bearings, new second gear, Caged Needle bearings, etc. etc. It's all on the build sheet. All I have left to purchase prior to the tear-down is the Fitzgerald Second Gear.

If you need any part numbers or costs they are all current and accurate on the build sheet.

I apologize that I do not know of nor have I seen pistons for the 1250 that are suitable for forced induction. I wonder is Fitzgerald Motorsports would be able to assist you with a custom order from Carillo? Keep in mind it might be a 3-6 month wait...

JE pistons has a custom piston order form on their website but they haven't responded to my query in over a month since contacting them. I ended up just buying from an eBay retailer (for about $100 cheaper than the JE website) a generic set of 3.937" 9.5:1 pistons. I was going to try to get them to make me a 10:1 set, but no joy.

I fully agree with mukle and his process of evaluation. BEFORE you tear your engine apart, unless you intend to bolster it as I am. Perform a compression test. Run a bore-scope. (I got one off eBay that connects to my phone for the image display...very slick!) and address the other areas mukle suggested.

I wish you all the best of luck with your build. Please keep us posted!!!!

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My mechanic called TTS and they advised to get JE forged pistons and rod but on their website there isnt any option for the 1250cc engine.

I saw that CP-Carrillo pistons and rod might be an option as well but again on their website i dont seem to identify the Vrod 1250cc parts.

Any advice on where i can get them? (and good luck to your project!)
Call MecTec, Sweden. He knows the Revolution engine, and is familiar with JE and Carillo products.


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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
So good news! I send my Dyno guy Dan Thayer a screen shot of Karrza's cam degree diagram and a screen shot of the slotted cam gear in his thread. Dan has a full machine shop and said he can cut even that hard of steel with his "wire edm" and be able to slot the gears "no problem". I guess that means I won't have to visit the grumpy Mopar guy to have it done lol.
 

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You do not have to use wire edm for cutting the slots. Gears are hardened but they goes well with hard steel milling tools. Wire cutting is bit overkill here. Of course it will work no doubt about it. Good fixture with locator pin for the timing is very helpful.
 

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It's amazing to me that the gears stay in the selected position with slots - the stress and vibration has to be significant at 9000 - 10000 Rpm and rapid Rpm changes, There was an Australian guy that made splined gears that could be clocked to adjust in small increments - those were really cool but I guess if the slots work don't worry about it ?
 

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It was $400 for a set and when I tried to contact him, I never received a response. He was on facebook, and I don't do face book.
 

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Innovative idea 👍 If I understand right there's no increments in adjusting. After timing full hole can be selected where additional screws are put.

It's amazing to me that the gears stay in the selected position with slots - the stress and vibration has to be significant at 9000 - 10000 Rpm and rapid Rpm changes, There was an Australian guy that made splined gears that could be clocked to adjust in small increments - those were really cool but I guess if the slots work don't worry about it ?
I have had some doubts my self too but have to believe slotting. There is many Japanese bikes where can be purchased aftermarket slotted gears for two even smaller screws (M6?). Vrod cam gear screws are fine threaded and bigger. Good hard washer and strong glue plus proper torq.
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
It was $400 for a set and when I tried to contact him, I never received a response. He was on facebook, and I don't do face book.
I just ordered 4 gears from Ronnies. I -think- I only need two...for the exhaust sections using intake cams. I'm going to have my Dyno guy/machinist Dan Thayer make all 4 into slotted and if I don't need two of them I will sell them for the price of his shop time plus the $20 each I paid (including tax and shipping) for the extra two. It will probably be a couple months out depending upon how his schedule is. If anyone is interested, please let me know. I know almost for sure this guy isn't going to want to make a production of them.

Interesting that there is a seller on eBay currently who is looking to get almost $100 each for his new OEM gears. Whatta Jerk.
 

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I just ordered 4 gears from Ronnies. I -think- I only need two...for the exhaust sections using intake cams. I'm going to have my Dyno guy/machinist Dan Thayer make all 4 into slotted and if I don't need two of them I will sell them for the price of his shop time plus the $20 each I paid (including tax and shipping) for the extra two. It will probably be a couple months out depending upon how his schedule is. If anyone is interested, please let me know. I know almost for sure this guy isn't going to want to make a production of them.
Maybe you will want alter Intake Center Lobes as well so it was wise to take 4 gears directly (y) Like SRR mentioned earlier SC's are different compared to turbo and will need some study.
 

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Before putting engine to pieces it might be good idea to verify piston ring damage also by compression and/or leakage tests from spark plug holes.

Not so familiar how the oiling is organized with Rotrex SC but with turbo it can be flooded by oil if there is not proper oil restrictor used in supply. Also plenum can be full of oil if breathing is not enough e.g. too small breather filter and tubing. It is good to remember that with those hp numbers engine is bigger air pump also.

Wish you strength in troubleshooting (y)
Mukle thank you for your inputs!
2003 VRod Rider thank you as well!
Knut thank you for the MecTec advise, i wil contact them!


The leakeage test was already done and there is leaking form the cylinders, about 20% on the front and 40% on the back.

The engine will be opened next weak to look for damage extension, but im already looking for pistons that may fit.

Richard from TTS Performance advised me to install low compression pistons which are the best suited for forced air induction and from what i can see JE pistons website only has for vrods up to 2006 (1130 engine) and CP-Carrillo doesn't have low compression pistons unless i machine the cylinders up to 1427cc which im not inclined to do.

i've read that Trask Turbo have their own forged pistons for 1250cc with low compression, so i'm going to email them.

Cheers guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Some photos of my progress:

SwainTech has delivered on Ceramic coating the pistons:


Machine Metal Service Kitchen utensil Home appliance


I've removed the engine:

Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Bicycle tire

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Fuel tank Vehicle

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design


A-L-M-O-S-T all required parts for the build are on my shelf (Exceptions are Main and Rod Bearing shells because I have to tear the engine down to spec which ones I need, Ceramic Coating on Heads and Valves because I haven't removed them yet, and I'm not sure exactly where I'm going to source the chain drive yet):

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Looking good on the pistons 2003 VRR ! Do they check weight and balance those after coating them or not a factor ? Do yourself a favor and buy all the main and rod bearings now, they are pending obsolete and fairly inexpensive. Ordered mine a few weeks ago, picked them up yesterday on the R - first day in six weeks after eye surgery since I rode the bike & really enjoyed it. Got two sets of all the main and rod bearings P/N 24409-01K, 24410-01K, 24411-01K, 24412-01K and 24413-01K for $ 330. For only like $ 200 over the one correct set for your crank you can have all of them & sell what you don't need after the build or save for the next build, different size crank. You can get them coated or buy Ray's coated sets. I was able to get another 8027K bearing also for $ 48 since we figured out the parts book was wrong. (y):cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Great news on snatching an 8027K! I plan on buying Ray's coated sets. I'm almost there...the cradle is almost complete...I've completely painted it but I'm still drilling holes on the arms. I don't have a drill press so it's a hunnerd ugga dugga's for each hole! Me and my Harbor Freight bits ugh. I know...I know...invest in some better bits. As a matter of fact I am aboot to head to ACE for some more 10mm fasteners. I bought the wrong length for the front side. I'll pick up a couple bits, too, as I have a coupon that expires today!

Anywho...since I plan on getting Ray's and I'll have this thing apart prolly by the end of the week, I can size what I need and order and save some cash and a headache of trying to off the ones I didna need. Thanks for the advices tho...

My current dilemma...given the rarity of these [email protected] bearings...this bike only has 12K stock miles on it. I'm thinking of saving these hard-to-find bearings for my next rebuild after the SuperCharger has a chance to really spin some RPMs. What do you think?

Sean
 

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Have you thought about balancing your crank due to lighter pistons and rods?

I would perhaps change all the bearings for example when disassembling the tranny for the straigth cut second gears. If the whole world runs out of HD oem bearings there all other can be done from industrial bearings except that input shaft 8029K which has special inner diam.
 

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Looking good on the pistons 2003 VRR ! Do they check weight and balance those after coating them or not a factor ? Do yourself a favor and buy all the main and rod bearings now, they are pending obsolete and fairly inexpensive. Ordered mine a few weeks ago, picked them up yesterday on the R - first day in six weeks after eye surgery since I rode the bike & really enjoyed it. Got two sets of all the main and rod bearings P/N 24409-01K, 24410-01K, 24411-01K, 24412-01K and 24413-01K for $ 330. For only like $ 200 over the one correct set for your crank you can have all of them & sell what you don't need after the build or save for the next build, different size crank. You can get them coated or buy Ray's coated sets. I was able to get another 8027K bearing also for $ 48 since we figured out the parts book was wrong. (y):cool:
Don't think bearing shells will ever be a big issue. Back in the day, I got custom -.020 rod bearings for my Continental crank for that STC -020 grind and nitride treatment. Companies like this exist and probably no more expensive then those thieving bastards at HD for custom sizes.
I also find it odd that in all the years, I've not read a single post of anyone measuring a crank to see if it's out of round. Most look at scoring but we both know rod journals go out of round from wear. I've also never found out if these V rod cranks are nitrided. I doubt they are due to extra cost involved for HD . That would stop just about all normal wear from then on , however this requires a fixture for the oven so not practical for small numbers. Grind and rebearing is as well as weld and regrind back to stock sizes. Remember the flat VW engines. All hand nitrided cranks running with no oil filters. Never found a worn crank in them or scoring. I suspect if HD obsoletes bearings, it opens the door for manufactures to skirt that proprietary shit they are currently bound to for HD.
Ron
 
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