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mukle that's not a bad price at all considering the workmanship and the materials. Harley charges $60 each for their boots anyway. So it's not much of a stretch to be able to afford yours and have peace of mind.
If I decide to make them I do them only for hobby purpose not for business. I just want to cover my expenses. Nothing else.

If I read Ron's post right, I thought he was saying a metal strip would act like a backing bracket, much like what holds the fuel injectors in place. Thus creating a force between the mounting screw (bolt) and the boot at the intake to hold that rubber down better from across the mount holes. Have you thought about making something simple like that?
We have discussed this on other topic and my idea was judged as over thinking the whole problem. Better would have been to hold plenum down with the brackets. Please read the Intake boot for boosted topic.

However I can see the need to find a way to keep the rubber "neck" if you will attached to the plenum as the worm gear clamp strap has it seems an undesired strength. It is also very difficult to get a tool in there on the front one and it needs to be positioned j-u-s-t right so as it tightens it doesn't pull away from my tool access, be it a screwdriver or socket tool.
I have found it quite easy to tighten front clamp with flexible socket screwdriver. It does not have to be even "just" in right angle. When the clamp screw points to approx. seven a clock when you sit on your bike you can reach it quite easily with flexible screwdriver from left side of your bike. Flash light is great to have there.

Body jewelry Electric blue Jewellery Font Metal


This is of course over bent here. It is almost straight when securing front clamp. I have multiple sizes of these and they are convenient in many places.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Hey I have one of those, sorta, but never thought of using it. Thanks for the tip! Mine is ratchet driver controlled but same solution. Thanks again!
 

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Be sure all fittings and flexible couplings are cleaned with alcohol numerous times - I've seen similar aircraft pressurization ducts blow off and cause loss of pressurization at 6-9 psi so clean all contact surfaces ( including the clamps ) with alcohol and you have no slippery problems. Also make sure clamp has squish up of rubber or silicone coupling outside of the clamp or the duct will pull out from under the clamp and it will spit it off. Metal or cable straps yes that's a great idea to limit total travel of the plenum, but a guy could also design a plenum that would be mounted & supported in such a manner that it would take almost all the "blow off" load off the rubber boots & clamps - (y):cool:
 

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TTS plenum is big enough and has good volume there as it should be but it weights same time little more. Like my plenum too. That is why supporting it properly is definitely one concern. Does it have to be rigid or little flexible is another thing. Leak caused by the purely boost is not absolutely confirmed by the turbo guys yet. Like I said it has been holding for above 20psi boosts so far. Especially when fittings are tighten carefully like streetrodracer tells above.

My aluminium boot idea was to have that peace of mind that it would not leak there even it is caused from the boost or heavy plenum bending on top of it. Also I like the idea to fix the fuel rail and the injectors somewhere more rigid part than rubber. My high big flow Bosch injectors cannot bottom to heads anymore. They are little bit shorter than stock. Just to make sure that they would not slip or leak from the holes. This fuel leak is way bigger concern to me.
 

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Wow yea I wouldn't want to be at full 20 psi boost, hanging on for dear life and have the fuel injector pop out of the socket, which drops a cylinder as you get a free crotch fuel bath right before it lights off 💥🔥:oops: then you have to deal with staying on a burning M/C & getting it off to the side of the track or side of the road without getting run over or just dropping the bike. :cautious: Like the plenum the injector rail / injectors need rubber sleeved metal or cable straps, or designed bracket to hold it down. Modifications beget more Modifications, success at Modifications requires more Maintenance, and then more Modifications to provide some reliability - this is the end result of getting twice or three times the power out of the same displacement engine. (y)This is a very fun & entertaining project mukle and you're deep into it - great stuff ! Also I've seen on boosted aircraft engines the stainless steel boot clamps being attached to each other with a strap of the same size as the clamp, one on each side so 180 degrees from each other with a spot weld or small rivet at each end, rounded head in toward boot so the two clamps can't move away from each other once tightened down. This pretty much solves boot clamps from squirming around, and lets you tighten them easier if you orient them to the desired direction before you spot weld or rivet them. Good Luck & keep up the great work !! (y):cool:
 

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Yes even we are playing sometimes with quite insane inventions it always good idea to make proper risk analysis on the side. E.g. alcohol can burn with rather unvisible flames in the sun and and you notice that you are on fire by the heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Talked with Richard and we have discussed going to the C30-74 Rotrex. He's convinced me and I'll also be upgrading the injectors.
 

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Talked with Richard and we have discussed going to the C30-74 Rotrex. He's convinced me and I'll also be upgrading the injectors.
Wow. You doing all this with stock compression pistons?
Ron
I second that. If you are planning on running boost beyond 12 psi you need to start looking at lower compression (different head gasket, lower compression pistons....). Overall compression with stock pistons + high levels of boost will equal detonation city.

Also, you will firmly be in the aftermarket ECU territory at those levels of boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
No, no, no. I'm using 9.5:1 and yes yes yes aftermarket ECU.
 

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From Cometic you can find thicker mls head gaskets like 0.060" or 0.080". Latter one is just about thickest with stock secondary timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
OK thanks for the tip mukle. I have already bought a set of Reliant head gaskets. I used them on my Cthulhu NA build and they are holding up quite nicely. They have a stickier surface. I just called Reliant but the customer service agent couldn't find me a spec. I'll hafta mic them. I don't mind going to Cometic if they don't turn out to be thick enough though. They make excellent products and I've used them on my Nightster.
 

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Just throwing this out there. Why not eliminate the wrist pin bushing completely as in press the pins into the rods and use the pistons as the bushings? I've not researched all the ins and outs of this but it's been done for ions in V8s.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I'll hafta talk to the race tech at Gowanda Harley-Davidson. They did my Cthulhu engine build in 2018. But I am going to try to do this Evil Twin build myself. I want the experience. I don't have a press that would be able to do what you are saying. Maybe they do?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Incidentally I called Gowanda HD earlier and they said their Dyno is compatible with DynoJet. That's the tuner TTS-Performance recommends with their S/C anyway so I am going to have to amend my earlier post about trying to use Daytona Twin Tec. I know that's what Fitzgerald uses...but Dyno access is limited in my area for some reason. The only other two I know about: Thayer, which is about 2 hours away, and hasn't answered the phone; and DE Twin Cam Performance, but he's ... we have a sort of history I won't bother getting in to here. Anyway, I'm very lucky that Gowanda is 11 minutes away and they have a V-Rod race tech.
 

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Incidentally I called Gowanda HD earlier and they said their Dyno is compatible with DynoJet. That's the tuner TTS-Performance recommends with their S/C anyway so I am going to have to amend my earlier post about trying to use Daytona Twin Tec. I know that's what Fitzgerald uses...but Dyno access is limited in my area for some reason. The only other two I know about: Thayer, which is about 2 hours away, and hasn't answered the phone; and DE Twin Cam Performance, but he's ... we have a sort of history I won't bother getting in to here. Anyway, I'm very lucky that Gowanda is 11 minutes away and they have a V-Rod race tech.
Without a dyno, you will have a hard time tuning boosted regardless of DTT or PCV and autotune. Very short rpm/kpa intervals to collect data hits. Even the stock bike , road tuning is a bit of a prick that way unless you can find a long hill or use braking to capture higher load areas. Generally, road tuning just gets the normal operational ranges and a bit more to the right. This is good enough but not really a full tune that one can get with a dyno. Only other option is a close course with no traffic.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Agreed. I really only need to put enough miles on the bike to break it in so the Dyno run doesn't go BOOM! I am lucky to live out in the country where nobody (well maybe once, but that's another story) has called the cops on me no matter how I ride around this place like I own every square inch. I was born in this house. I own a quarter mile stretch of this road on both sides and it's flat. Everybody around here knows me. They know I'm not a drunk and I always slow down and move over for tractors and joggers. Our town, for whatever reason, has very well maintained roads and the only real hazards are the cow poop. We also have an excellent public school system. Must be the taxes.
 
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