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Wow, that's gonna be one awesome machine! For the TTS S/C do the give you a base map then auto tune like the Trask kit or do you need to take it right to the dyno for tuning after installation? Just curious if a turbo was a contender and if so why did you choose to go the S/C route? Been thinking seriously about one for my NRS. Keep us posted on the build!
 

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Two 2003 VRSCA's: CTHULHU is Black/Sterling, N/A ; EVIL TWIN is Anodized and S/C
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am going to have to configure the DTT myself. I read somewhere that DTT will give you a base map once you install it and give them your fuel tables (I don't right now know what that looks like). But in any case their data entry fields should allow me to make inputs based upon my build and then let the autotune take over, with frequent revisits to the tune to tweak it as need be. Turbo was not really a contender. I just don't like it all being on the right side and heard a lot of negatives about the heat from the pipe and the need for certain modifications. Also it's about 30 hp shy of the S/C. Plus I wanted to be able to choose my own exhaust. I do plan on having it dyno'd out after a proper break-in period. I will most def keep things posted here as I will most likely have questions for the forum.
-Sean
 

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Ahh very nice!

I live very close to RCC turbos, they used to make a kit for the vrod back in the day, spoke to him in the spring and they would do a custom built turbo for my bike, they orientate the turbo in the opposite direction of the Trask setup so that the exhaust exits the front of the turbo thus keeping the pipe away from the right leg and can still use whatever exhaust you like, when all is said and done the price was in the same ballpark as the Trask but it included a full dyno tune. The RCC kit is non intercooled tho...said it's not necessary with 6lbs of boost which is what he recommended and said that'd get in the mid 160whp.

You're bike is gonna be awesome! The TTS looks like a really nice kit! What kind of number do you expect from your build?
 

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Well I drew those custom tb boots and can start producing them any day if I really need them. Last fall I dynoed mine with 21.8psi of boost with zero leak issues so I have not rush them anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ron thank you for the heads up! If I am reading you correctly, you are referring to the attachment (using ring clamps, 4) on the throttle body boots as shown in this photo? Is this where I might expect a leak? Or are you saying that the boots (11) at the intake port of the heads can leak? -Sean

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I had an idea making boot from aluminium and connect it with silicone hoses to TB. Part is relatively easy to make with nc milling even there is little bit tricky hole from round to oval shape to provide smooth flow from TB to heads. If you take closer look at your heads you will find that holes are not exactly round. Trying to make as smooth transition as possible in relatively short distance.

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Ron thank you for the heads up! If I am reading you correctly, you are referring to the attachment (using ring clamps, 4) on the throttle body boots as shown in this photo? Is this where I might expect a leak? Or are you saying that the boots (11) at the intake port of the heads can leak? -Sean

View attachment 609589
Base of 11. Flex between the bolts.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
mukle given Ron's raised concern and your experience...I AM interested. About how much in USD do think this would cost?
-Sean
 

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It depends on the produced set quantity but ball park will be around USD100 each plus shippings when made of stronger 7000 grade aluminium. No anodization.

It would be best if I test them before making them many. Holes are in the right place and it works like planned etc.

Even this will most likely cure minor boot leaks this will not add plenum support more and that has to be taken still care like Ron suggested with metal strap etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
mukle that's not a bad price at all considering the workmanship and the materials. Harley charges $60 each for their boots anyway. So it's not much of a stretch to be able to afford yours and have peace of mind.

If I read Ron's post right, I thought he was saying a metal strip would act like a backing bracket, much like what holds the fuel injectors in place. Thus creating a force between the mounting screw (bolt) and the boot at the intake to hold that rubber down better from across the mount holes. Have you thought about making something simple like that?

However I can see the need to find a way to keep the rubber "neck" if you will attached to the plenum as the worm gear clamp strap has it seems an undesired strength. It is also very difficult to get a tool in there on the front one and it needs to be positioned j-u-s-t right so as it tightens it doesn't pull away from my tool access, be it a screwdriver or socket tool.

-Sean
 

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mukle that's not a bad price at all considering the workmanship and the materials. Harley charges $60 each for their boots anyway. So it's not much of a stretch to be able to afford yours and have peace of mind.

If I read Ron's post right, I thought he was saying a metal strip would act like a backing bracket, much like what holds the fuel injectors in place. Thus creating a force between the mounting screw (bolt) and the boot at the intake to hold that rubber down better from across the mount holes. Have you thought about making something simple like that?

However I can see the need to find a way to keep the rubber "neck" if you will attached to the plenum as the worm gear clamp strap has it seems an undesired strength. It is also very difficult to get a tool in there on the front one and it needs to be positioned j-u-s-t right so as it tightens it doesn't pull away from my tool access, be it a screwdriver or socket tool.

-Sean
Room to do that is very limited. Easiest solution It would still be from plenum to head for the straps, brackets , cable or whatever you come up with. Even then challenging. Front and rear needed. No actual down pressure but limits pressure lift between the bolts at the socket to head interface . A slight preload would be fine. There should be no issue at all at the worm gear clamps in regards to holding as much pressure as you want in that area.
Ron
 
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