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Vrod-less...........
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to get a torque wrench for my V-Rod. Nothing fancy just something that works. Any recommendations? Size 1/2, 3/8?
 

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Many would disagree but I prefer a beam-type torque wrench, 3/8. I have a couple of clicker-type wrenches as well but I just don't trust them (with my V-Rod). With the beam-type you can see where you're at, with the clicker you just turn and hope it'll click when it should. Say you're trying to tighten the base plate for the luggage rack/sissy bar to the specs. The spec torque is really high, it feels you're about to strip the bolts. The worst part is you don't know how far/close you're. It just freaks me out. Also, theoretically all clicker-type wrenches require periodic calibration. With the beam-type you just bend the beam to point to 0. And lastly the beam-types cost significantly less.
 

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Chad 02 V-ROD
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I agree I use the beam and my dad used to be a race motor builder and he prefers the beam. :2cents: :stilpoke:
 

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Making the UK Fatter
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TBAG809 said:
I want to get a torque wrench for my V-Rod. Nothing fancy just something that works. Any recommendations? Size 1/2, 3/8?
I got a cheap beam type and had it checked against a master torque gauge and it was spot on all the way to 150 (max)
 

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Tired of the crap
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TBAG809 said:
I want to get a torque wrench for my V-Rod. Nothing fancy just something that works. Any recommendations? Size 1/2, 3/8?
You probably will want the 3/8" drive size. The 1/2" units are usually for larger fasteners, and for higher torque values, than anything you are likely to work on your V-Rod. I can't think of too many fasteners that require much more than 100 ft/lbs (the rear axle nut); and most you will encounter will be of much lower value (<50 ft/lbs). The manual tells me that the clutch hub nut requires 162 ft/lbs - but unless you are a very serious mechanic, I doubt you'll be working on that one anytime soon.

A decent quality beam unit is probably the best value - although you do need to learn how to use it correctly to get accurate readings. Beam-type torque wrenches have an articulated handle, that needs to be held straight when applying peak torque. The other advantage of the beam units is that they do not require periodic recalibrating, the way the "clicker" type do - although if you drop one on the floor it probably will get somewhat out of whack.

I've found that some of the smaller fasteners on the V-Rod, specifically those on the switchgear, require a torque value below that which is readily readable on my beam-type torque wrench (i.e. measurements in inch /pounds).
 

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Submariner
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186 Posts
You can pick up a no frills 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive beam type @ Sears for $19.99. I haven't done any major work, so it has met my needs & works like a champ.
 

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Color me Gone
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27,333 Posts
I have all Snap-On torque wrenches including angle torque wenches and wouldn't take for the good twist snap torque wrench but for the average home the beam type is usually right on spec and priced for the home budget. It's hard to go wrong for the price and it sure beats not using one at all by a mile.
 

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Vrod-less...........
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys,

Looks like the $19.99 beam is what I`ll be getting......Its all I need right now.
 

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Vrod-less...........
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
WORM said:
tbag save your money you can always borrow mine
You da man Worm.....Thanks. For $20 bucks I might as well keep one around though. I need to re-torque some stuff on the bike.
 

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Old Guys Rule
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1,279 Posts
Duct tape? Did somebody say duct tape????

Well I do use a Craftsman 1/2" click style and have had good luck with it the past three years. I do have it recalibrated once a year to keep it in line. I just got a 3/8" drive in/lb torque wrench also click style. Thats just my preference. I do agree with the bunch though. For lower maintenance, the beam style has very good accuracy.
 

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Vrod-less...........
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
How do you or where do you take the torque wrench to be recalibrated?
 

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Old Guys Rule
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I have it done locally here in Portland on my delivery route. The company only charges me $35 bucks. If you take it back to Sears, they ship it to Flordia (where I wish I was going in March) for $65 plus shipping which is just about the cost of a new one. So I guess unless your torque wrench was part of your family (like a family pet or something), you would just buy a new one. If I didn't get the deal I would just test it once in a while and if it gets out of adjustment, buy a new one.
 
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