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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a area here that has this info or can someone with a manual help a brother out, finishing up forward controls and need torque setttins for frame rail, swingarm pivot, engine mount, and rear axle
 

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Autobanmod
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200 Nm sounds quite high, the roller bearings won't like that very much...
But if the manual says so...
 

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200 Nm sounds quite high, the roller bearings won't like that very much...
But if the manual says so...
Yes, this has been discussed before. Max questioned this value when I mentioned to him that the listed value was wrong.

Concerning the bearings, the axle spacers and inside races take the compressive loads but 150 ft•lbs still seemed rather high considering the FL models use the same size nut and have a lower torque specification (around 130 Nm or 100 ft•lbs). I called the factory about this when I switched to a 2005 swingarm and was told that the increased torque for VRSC applications that use a 24 mm x 2 mm pitch thread axle nut (36 mm across the nut flats) is to provide enough clamping torque to resist the sliding forces applied during maximum acceleration.
 

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I have always used 150 ft/lbs torque on my 2007 (240 wheel) with no problems. I have 90K miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know that it didn't feel like 150ft/lbs when I removed it, which was the first time the rear wheel has been pulled
 

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Seriously Why is it that so many are to cheap to spend the money on a manual, then come here or to other sites begging for copyrighted information.

When you get a bike and have even the slightest inkling that you will be doing any work on it the manual should be the FIRST and most important accessory thats purchased.
 

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Autobanmod
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The manual should come along for free when purchasing any device...
But as this is obviously not always the case, people tend to form communities to help each other out. I think that's cool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Seriously Why is it that so many are to cheap to spend the money on a manual, then come here or to other sites begging for copyrighted information.

When you get a bike and have even the slightest inkling that you will be doing any work on it the manual should be the FIRST and most important accessory thats purchased.
wow, is it really that big of deal, old saying, nothing good to say, don't say nuthin at all, I'm sorry that I can't justify buying a manual for a few torque settings, that money can help me get shocks. Some of us don't have money to just throw around and have to plan every cent spent on their toy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The manual should come along for free when purchasing any device...
But as this is obviously not always the case, people tend to form communities to help each other out. I think that's cool.
Agree, it is very coool, I didn't think I was begging haaha, if no one would have answered, I would have just went to hd for the info :coff:
 

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wow, is it really that big of deal, old saying, nothing good to say, don't say nuthin at all, I'm sorry that I can't justify buying a manual for a few torque settings, that money can help me get shocks. Some of us don't have money to just throw around and have to plan every cent spent on their toy.
"Penny wise pound Foolish" goes the old saying.

There is so much information in the service, electrical diagnostics and Parts manual they pay for themselves on your first "serious" repair.
This does not mention just reading the manuals you get a real inkling as to how things are supposed to work as well as how to diagnose problems with minimal grief as repair same.

Some people use the forums after spending hours or days in a feeble attempt to figure out what is wrong rather than read a very good manual on how to diagnose the problem in minimal time.

I guess if you have nothing to do tbut waste time rather than diagnose the problem in a minimal time........
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
"Penny wise pound Foolish" goes the old saying.

There is so much information in the service, electrical diagnostics and Parts manual they pay for themselves on your first "serious" repair.
This does not mention just reading the manuals you get a real inkling as to how things are supposed to work as well as how to diagnose problems with minimal grief as repair same.

Some people use the forums after spending hours or days in a feeble attempt to figure out what is wrong rather than read a very good manual on how to diagnose the problem in minimal time.

I guess if you have nothing to do tbut waste time rather than diagnose the problem in a minimal time........
Im sure I'll put out the money this year sometime, alls I'm saying is that not everyone is in a good situation, it's taken me 4 years to put forward controls on my bike, it wasn't a hard enough job for me to purchase a manual, although I was worried about the motor mount, it was also super easy once the rear brake and wheel are off.

I do have a quick ? about the manual, does it cover all years and make in one manual or are there separate manual for different years. I have a manual for my hardbodies and it sends me on wild goose chases all the time and end up having to search forums to figure out what to do. This manual is for 86.5-97 and mine are 95 and 97, there where changes thru the late 90s that are not documented right. I'm currently frustrating myself with the 95. Honestly this is the only manual I have ever owned or used and have had 15 vehicles, 4 street bikes, and countless offroad vehicles but then again my father is a retired gm mechanic. :D
 

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The Harley manuals are specific to a model year. ie 2002 2003 2004 etc. VRod manuals are separate from touring bikes as are Dyna's and sportsters etc.
In my experience they are very well written.
The Service manager where I frequent for some repairs says the manuals we can order are the same ones they use to service the bikes.
 
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