too much oil in front forks ????

The front end will be stiffer, but that's about it.

If you get too much as Mike says it is stiffer, stiffer to the point of simply stopping before it has the ability to do full travel. It literally liquid locks before full compression.

thats fine ,,,lol,,one more ounce going in ,,,i think im close to what i want ,just got a small thumpy clunk when on full brake pulling into my drive way ,, and on a full lean it feels a bit like it could be smoother a little less harsh and on the rails if that makes sense ,,

bwds said:

thats fine ,,,lol,,one more ounce going in ,,,i think im close to what i want ,just got a small thumpy clunk when on full brake pulling into my drive way ,, and on a full lean it feels a bit like it could be smoother a little less harsh and on the rails if that makes sense ,,

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The VRSC manuals have indicated fork oil level values that many say (including after market companies like Race Tech and Progressive) is way too much. E.g. the '02, '03 and '05 VRSC Service Manuals list the fill level as 3.3" (84 mm) from the top. The preferred value is 5.1" to 5.5" (130 mm to 140 mm) from the top, almost 2" (46 mm) less oil.

if ive got the right oil amount is there any way i should get a rebound thump or bottom out ,with stock springs.. say like when i said i get it under full brake pulling into my driveway

or could it be possible im getting mixed up and its the dreaded front end clunk

bwds said:

if ive got the right oil amount is there any way i should get a rebound thump or bottom out ,with stock springs.. say like when i said i get it under full brake pulling into my driveway

or could it be possible im getting mixed up and its the dreaded front end clunk

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Rebound thump would not be caused by too much oil. Too much oil will cause the bike to feel like it's bottoming out on compression. You say it happens on braking pulling into your driveway. That sounds like compression, not rebound and could be caused by too much oil. It's hard to diagnose via descriptions. The correct fork oil amount is not determined by volume but by the oil level. On the conventional forks used on VRSCA/B/D/DX/X models this is measured from the top of the fork tube to the top of the oil with the springs and spacers removed and the forks fully compressed.

The clunk is from movement of the upper triple clamp and forks as the triple clamp slides under the upper steering stem nut. It's usually heard before the forks fully compress.

cool ,so first step is to deffinatly work out if it rebound or compression ,,which i will do on the weekend ,,thanks steve ,you make good sense to simpletons like myself,,lol

Too much oil can cause your forks go "on block".
For example if you break hard and hit a speed bump at the same time then worst case scenario would be that one or both of the slider end cap breaks out "which results in death or serious injury" (as the manual states).
Better not enough then too much of oil in the forks.

Hi. I've recently did new fork seals on my zx12r 2001 model and as per manual I stating 450ml to be used per for so I put in 500ml per fork. Will this extra 50ml create a problem when I ride the bike. Kindly advise please.

Bucks3 said:

Hi. I've recently did new fork seals on my zx12r 2001 model and as per manual I stating 450ml to be used per for so I put in 500ml per fork. Will this extra 50ml create a problem when I ride the bike. Kindly advise please.

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A bit more oil then spec, 20-30cc will firm up the spring action. This is done quite often to tune a system. There eventually comes a point where you cannot bottom the fork to full travel as it will hydro lock. This can force the seals out. What that point is on your bike, don't know. The extra 50 cc might not be critical in function range. If you have full travel to the bump stop, by whatever means you test this all you've done is increased the spring rate by reducing the air chamber compressibility zone, so no issue.
Ron

rbabos said:

A bit more oil then spec, 20-30cc will firm up the spring action. This is done quite often to tune a system. There eventually comes a point where you cannot bottom the fork to full travel as it will hydro lock. This can force the seals out. What that point is on your bike, don't know. The extra 50 cc might not be critical in function range. If you have full travel to the bump stop, by whatever means you test this all you've done is increased the spring rate by reducing the air chamber compressibility zone, so no issue.
Ron

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Thank you Ron. Much appreciated brother

My 2013 DX has started to sweat oil on the left fork. I only noticed because I saw a small stain on the garage floor after uncovering the bike from its winter nap.

I've since purchased the OEM seal kits from a locall HD Dealer but now having second thoughts about re-building them myself .

Called a few Indy's but they don't want anything to do with the rebuilds. Claiming the inverted forks are very finicky to get right. Besides, none of them have the "special tool".

I got a quote from the HD Dealer.....they want 3 hours of labour at $140/hr plus tax. It's gonna get up there $$......but I might just have to let them do it and suck it up.

Unless, someone knows of a shop in the Greater Toronto Area who can do the job?

Garage heated? Possible seals just shrunk up enough to leak during those cold nights?

frogman......unfortunately, the garage is not heated. I never would have thought about shrinking seals because this is the first time seeing an oil stain on the floor.
My bike's been problem free since I got it in 2015 so expected to eventually have issues.
Going to give the fork(s) a good cleaning and monitor it for now......

Kept my bikes inside my house for years, until 2021/2022. Last winter in NY they spent it in my enclosed subjected to -20F and the upper radiator hose on my R would seep coolant, even after I checked it for tightness.

kntdrv said:

frogman......unfortunately, the garage is not heated. I never would have thought about shrinking seals because this is the first time seeing an oil stain on the floor.
My bike's been problem free since I got it in 2015 so expected to eventually have issues.
Going to give the fork(s) a good cleaning and monitor it for now......

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Steel slider shrinks actually. No two seals fit exactly the same. That and there's a very slight variation in tube dia. Could be this one has a hair lighter seal lip contact. As you say, clean it but you would need to pull the chrome cover and wiper to really clean or residue between the seal and wipe will smear for a while. It's also possible there might be some crud on the seal lip. Look into seal mate to wipe the lip, while you have the wiper pulled down and out of the way. Boy, that deal must think they are something special with that hour rate and times. While I have all the equipment to work on these, Woodstock is hardly close to the GTA. These are about the most simple of all inverted forks.
Ron

Motion Pro 08-0117 Damper Rod Fork Tool
Damper Rod Fork Tool - Motion Pro

Ron.....you're a wealth of information and always quick to offer help.

Quick update....after wiping down the left fork there has been no fork oil weeping for about a week now....... that I can tell.
I don't believe the problem has gone away but the urgency to get the fork rebuilt can wait until there's some downtime.