[Daniii]

I figure you are right, Max. Especially considering they went to 20K on the '04's. And I would vote for #2 of your list above. I'll report Wed when I pick up the bike if they did anything to mine. It hasn't ever leaked a drop of oil up to now. I AM nervous..

 

[mjw930]

Here's the link to the valve lash thread. http://www.v-rodforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1609

 

[Bruzer]

At my 10k service the dealer mechanic told me my valves were out of spec and had to order spacers. I specifically remember this because I had to wait for the kit to arrive at the dealership before I could get my rod back.

I wonder if Max isn't right, about them measuring incorrectly or being off at the start.

However, I did have an unexplained power loss before I had them adjusted and I have since attributed this to the valves being off.

I originally dynoed my stock bike at 105.6 bwhp. I purchased the V-Mods and the power commander and the Screamin Eagle air filter. I took it back to the dyno almost a year later (on the same dyno) and I found that I actually lost power, 103.something (I don't recall). I was furious that I actually lost power, and they gave me another run without the air box cover, and I got a lot more power 112.something (I have the charts some where). They did some tweaking of the power commander maps but couldn't get the stats with the box on.

I was furious that my so called "performance parts" did not actually give me any more performance. I didn't know what to think, and the bike was backfiring on deceleration with the V-Mods on, so I thought they were not creating enough backpressure and sent them back to Steve (who took them back, but insisted it wasn't the pipes). Shortly after all this trouble I took my V-Rod in for the 10k service where they "adjusted" my valves. I haven't dynoed it since the valve adjustment, so I can't be sure that the valves were the power loss but that is what I am thinking.

I didn't get the extended warentee and my 10k service was huge because I had the valves adjusted and new tires, and syn3 oil. Hind site is 20-20 I guess.

 

[ElrodontheV-Rod]

Ketsugo where did you get the metz for that price?





Elrod on the V-Rod

 

[Ketsugo]

Elrod,
I purchased the rear here ($131 actually).

http://www.motorcyclemart.com/tires/metzeler/me880.htm

And the front, here ($101 now).

http://www.imotorcyclestore.com/cgi...c1436+_DCatNum_02S21METM8C_01PageType_02ML_01


John

 

[Daniii]

Just spopke to the dealer. As you suspected Max, no valve adjust was required. He told me that to date they have had to adjust one valve out of all the ones they have examined, and in retrospect, that one should have been left alone. Very involved, he said, requiring removal of all the top of the motorcycle. Thank god for pre paid warranty. Also replacing rear brake pads, both tires, and changing the oil. (with Syn again) I pay labor on the tires, additional cost for syn oil, and everything for the brake pads. I'll report the total cost later tonight (assuming they get it done today), otherwise Saturday.

Off to Boise (flying) tomorrow early. I'll take a warm coat, back late Friday. Supposed to be 60 on Sat . Haven't ridden in a week. Having severe withdrawl symptoms (helped by the fact it hasn't been over 40F since I took it in).:notworthy

 

[Daniii]

Final report:

Rear tire - $182
Front Tire - $137
Oil filter, plugs, Gaskets, Rear Brake pads, - $182
Valve Check -$455
Tax $50.79
Total - $977.25, No Charge to me!

labor for two tires, synthetic oil, tax - $159.44 - My cost.

Pick Up at my house - no charge.
(I retrieved it myself - wanted to chat with the service manager)

Valves did not need any adjustment.

 

[ElrodontheV-Rod]

Thanks Ketsugo. The dealer in Leesburg,Fl. will be installing the new rear tire. A little over $200.I will be purchasing the front from the co. you did.Nobody could compete with thier price.The labor is $56.


Elrod on the V-Rod

 

[mjw930]

Gator's in Leesburg is a good dealer and their prices are fair. Orlando HD (not sure I trust them for serious work) advertises "the lowest tire prices in Florida". Might be worth a call.

 

[Rich Moran]

On my 10K check, I had the rear tire changed due to picking up a roofers tack. The tire still had another 2-3,000 miles left on it. Still running the same front at almost 12K, but it is getting there pretty quick. I will need to change it out soon, as I am wondering about grip in turns with rain.

Since I do not do burnouts or any racing, the tire life would be longer.

The valve shim adjustments have me wondering if the dealers are really opening up the covers on the v-rods when they do their inspections. From what th emanual says, you have to lower the engine to do both F & R. When I picked mine up from the dealer, no adjustments were necessary per the tech.

Might they start the bike up, let it get to operating rtemp range and listen with earphones for noise? No noise.. no adjust? Sounds crazy I know, but between Porche and HD might there be something here that MoCo ain't sharing, like if no adjustment needed at the 10 or 20K, should be good for 50K thereafter?

Since this was a Porche design, what is the recommended lash/shim check periods for their motors? I can't imagine that a Porche ownere has this done every 10K, as that would seem to be out of the norm, way too much service.


IDK, I am not a Porche owner, but it does seem unreasonable.

 

[mjw930]

Porsche owners, prior to the new water cooled motors with Hydraulic lifters, are used to shelling out the cost of a valve adjustment every 15K miles. Not a check, an adjustment. On my turbo it means dropping the motor 4 - 6" and removing about a half mile of intake plumbing

The adjustment is done by a screw on the rocker arm so it's easier once you're in there than on the V-Rod.