Tire balance?
I have chrome CVO rims. I static balance my own tires, but I have trouble getting the weights to stick in place for very long. Any suggestions??
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I cut a piece of 3M paint protection film (same stuff as clear bras made from) about 2"X3" and put it on the wheel prior to installing the weight. The thin urethane film sticks nicely to the wheel and comes off without residue. I put the weights on this film. The adhesive on the weights stick very well to the film, and when time to remove the film comes off with no weight adhesive on the wheel. This process works on any glossy surface. Does not work on as cast.
DYNABEADSI have chrome CVO rims. I static balance my own tires, but I have trouble getting the weights to stick in place for very long. Any suggestions??
Be sure to use only the recommended amount. No Yucky weights to fly off.
Dynabeads here too for the last 5 years or so, they just work, and no unsightly weights on the nice rims
The guys that fit my tyres refuse to stock dynabeads.They don't believe the science behind them.They much rather you come back in when a weight gets launched into the roadside scrapyard for toxic metals and cough up another balancing charge.
They are easy to blow into a mounted deflated tyre with a tube and plastic bottle and mine are on their third go no need to replace each time.
They are easy to blow into a mounted deflated tyre with a tube and plastic bottle and mine are on their third go no need to replace each time.
Yeah, there are some ignorant shops out there.....or those with their own motives for doing the old way.The guys that fit my tyres refuse to stock dynabeads.They don't believe the science behind them.They much rather you come back in when a weight gets launched into the roadside scrapyard for toxic metals and cough up another balancing charge.
They are easy to blow into a mounted deflated tyre with a tube and plastic bottle and mine are on their third go no need to replace each time.
My local bike garage carry Dynabeads in stock and only charge for the replacement beads used. Had 4 tyre changes now with them and on the most recent tyre they didn't charge for new beads, just re-used them. No more than a couple of mins effort now they are well practiced with them.
I have used balancing compounds with success. I have read quite a bit how they are supposed to work.
Without entering into a debate as I have no real scientific knowledge of the subject, would love to know why this product gets zero support from any OE car, bike, or tire manufacturer. Now that I have proper balancing equipment I don't use this stuff anymore, but I'm still interested.
Without entering into a debate as I have no real scientific knowledge of the subject, would love to know why this product gets zero support from any OE car, bike, or tire manufacturer. Now that I have proper balancing equipment I don't use this stuff anymore, but I'm still interested.
I hand balance jet wheels that land at up to 168 Knots ( 220 Mph rated tires ) we use weights that go under the wheel tie bolts, different offsets, weights and locations. Never any crap in inside the tires, other than the tire makers installed weight patches, no chance of weights flying off. Having said that, I balance my R cast wheels by hand - or like my last rear tire - I installed it and had Cycle Gear balance it -I handed the guy a bottle of alcohol to clean the cast center patch of the wheel where I wanted the weights and he was perplexed - like whats this for ? After I showed him how to clean the casting with a toothbrush and alcohol he was all over it and said that's the way to do it. I then seal the edges with a thin bead of anti-corrosive RTV and they will be there until the next tire change. I could be swayed to Dynabeads as I believe they will readjust as your tire changes balance but so far I have no experience with them, and Cycle Gear FL. does not install them either.
I think that the beads have not really gone mainstream due to; cost, perceived hassle of inserting and removal.I have used balancing compounds with success. I have read quite a bit how they are supposed to work.
Without entering into a debate as I have no real scientific knowledge of the subject, would love to know why this product gets zero support from any OE car, bike, or tire manufacturer. Now that I have proper balancing equipment I don't use this stuff anymore, but I'm still interested.
Another shop I know refuse to use them saying they are messy and end up everywhere in their workshop causing a slip hazard....I think some people just dont like to change.
They do seem a popular option and readily available from custom bike places, but less so mainstream volume tire fitting shops.
I use Ride-On in all my vehicles.I have used balancing compounds with success. I have read quite a bit how they are supposed to work.
Without entering into a debate as I have no real scientific knowledge of the subject, would love to know why this product gets zero support from any OE car, bike, or tire manufacturer. Now that I have proper balancing equipment I don't use this stuff anymore, but I'm still interested.
It not only protects you from most punctures but eliminates wheel weights (unless the wheel/tire combo are several ounces out-of-balance). The dealer I bought my bike from used to install it in every bike they sold. There's likely some liability concerns that hinder endorsement by major manufacturers but there are plenty of individual testimonials available on their website.
Nothing against dynabeads and have used them in the past. I now have a balance unit, plus my tire guy hates the beads rolling around his floor, should he miss a few when he vacuums them out. As for stick on weights there are two basic types. One uses a more papery adhesive strip, the other a rubbery foam type similar too what 3m tapes used to hold car moldings on. That's the one you want because it's water proof. Good cleaning of the area on the chrome and they are there for the life of the tire.I have chrome CVO rims. I static balance my own tires, but I have trouble getting the weights to stick in place for very long. Any suggestions??
The other paper adhesive ones, water degrades it to the point where it separates mid point. If you have a stock of the cheap adhesive ones, the tape can be stripped off and the molding 3m tape , most body shops have some and will sell, give you a few inches to use.
Slime and Ride On have their place but it will piss the tire change off.
Ron
Ride-On is what I have used. I get the aftermarket shops having widely varied opinions, but I would love to find the results of any OE testing. If this stuff works, it sure seems like the way to go on a 200mph car or bike.
That looks great, I would use that Ride On if I can find it in the UK ...I use Ride-On in all my vehicles.
It not only protects you from most punctures but eliminates wheel weights (unless the wheel/tire combo are several ounces out-of-balance). The dealer I bought my bike from used to install it in every bike they sold. There's likely some liability concerns that hinder endorsement by major manufacturers but there are plenty of individual testimonials available on their website.
To clarify. I used ride-on with tubes doing adventure riding. Many thousands of miles of agressive riding in remote Australia and never had a flat. I don't see it being worth the mess on tubeless, and would never trust any chemical inside my wheel with BSTs.
There's a UK Ride-ON site but for some reason it's undergoing maintenance now. You can also contact the company and ask for UK dealer info.That looks great, I would use that Ride On if I can find it in the UK ...
Ride-On is a water based colloidal suspension with no chemically active components except for corrosion inhibitors. It washes off with water. If BST wheels can handle inflation with air (unless specially processed this will have some water vapor), then Ride-On won't cause any issues. Also, when properly installed, it only touches the tire, not the wheel.To clarify. I used ride-on with tubes doing adventure riding. Many thousands of miles of agressive riding in remote Australia and never had a flat. I don't see it being worth the mess on tubeless, and would never trust any chemical inside my wheel with BSTs.
I hand balance jet wheels that land at up to 168 Knots ( 220 Mph rated tires ) we use weights that go under the wheel tie bolts, different offsets, weights and locations. Never any crap in inside the tires, other than the tire makers installed weight patches, no chance of weights flying off.
First landing wouldn't the balance be that far out to make it a worthless effort what with all the smoke and screeching.I've seen hostesses jiggle uncontrollably and always thought oh yeah another Dunlop trashed should run beads.
Not really. Takes a while but far enough out of balance they shake the shit out of the landing gear, just after leaving the ground when they are free wheeling. On one of my small planes back when I had one tire way out. Normally they don't balance these little tires but this one, on every take off, I applied brake to stop the bitch from shaking. I balanced it and all good.First landing wouldn't the balance be that far out to make it a worthless effort what with all the smoke and screeching.I've seen hostesses jiggle uncontrollably and always thought oh yeah another Dunlop trashed should run beads.
Ron
Yea, amazingly most main gear jet tires are not final balanced - only the nose wheels/tire assy's. The main wheels are a balanced assy, the tires are individually balanced by the mfgr. with internal weight patches and the two are assembled with the red tire dot at the valve stem to inspect for tire rotation on the wheel during its life. The main wheels also spin the huge brake multi discs, which if the old style tri-metallic weigh a friggin' ton ( newer carbon brakes are so much lighter ) but both float within the wheel some so it's difficult to balance that combination plus the footprint weight quells most vibrations. The thing that concerns me about any liquid inside a tubeless tire is the possibility of causing the tire to slip on the wheel since most street bikes have no rim locks. Under extreme braking, acceleration or even burnouts at your favorite biker bar that could be a problem. If Ride On stays " wet " and you lay the bike down it could get around the bead area and reduce friction, hopefully their different formulas take that into consideration. Inside a tube like Mike says I would feel better - tubeless I need more testing data to make an informed decision. The Dyna beads being dry, and not a sealant not a problem. My 2 cents.
It's not a liquid, it's a colloidal gel. Once it coats the inner tire tread patch area it pretty much stays put. I have no experience with it in a racing application, but I can't imagine why it would be a problem....If Ride On stays " wet " and you lay the bike down it could get around the bead area and reduce friction, hopefully their different formulas take that into consideration. Inside a tube like Mike says I would feel better - tubeless I need more testing data to make an informed decision. The Dyna beads being dry, and not a sealant not a problem. My 2 cents.
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