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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So yesterday I replaced my handlebar with a drag bar, and the holes beneath the bar that are supposed to help the wires go through the master cilinder are further away from the center than in stock, causing two problems if align the controls with them:

1 Grips cant go in completely with alomst 1/4 not resting in the hanldebar. Is this a problem or bike can be ridden this way?

2 As the controls are farther away, throtle and idle cables are harder to place in the hand control. I managed to place the throtle cable properly with its ferrule in place, but the idle cable cant seem to go that far. I tried to move the adjustement nuts in the cable, but they are all rusty and dont move. Will lossing the adjusters help? What would you use? How to check if that bar is too wide. In its longest position the long adjuster nut should be all the way right or all the way left?

Thanks!
 

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As far as the grips go, shouldn't be a problem if not all the way in as long as they are solid. You will definitely need the adjusters loosened and functioning so you can.... well, adjust your cables when you are done. Check under the neck and around for some more play in the cables to get them installed. The adjuster nuts basically make the cable outer sheath longer or shorter, therefor taking up slack or adding slack to the inner cable. FYI.... I haven't used a return cable on a bike in years... I'm not saying to ditch it, I just don't use them..
 

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Check the other end of the cable to make sure they haven't come out of their retainer. They are not secured in any way, just fit into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, no they haven't come out. Today I have spent couple hours spraying wd-40 to the nut, but nothing. Not sure what else to do.
606403

Before I left, I covered them with the rubber sleeve and spraid some more wd-40 inside, hopefully soaking overnight will help.
 

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Thanks, no they haven't come out. Today I have spent couple hours spraying wd-40 to the nut, but nothing. Not sure what else to do. View attachment 606403
Before I left, I covered them with the rubber sleeve and spraid some more wd-40 inside, hopefully soaking overnight will help.
Ditch that W40 shit and use some real penetrating oils. Night and day difference. WD has some uses but not for that. Warm the sleeve a bit with a heat gun to aid capillary effect which will help also.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, I managed to let loose those nuts. Next step: throtle feels stiff as f**k. I can pull the throttle, it moves hard like muddy and it wont go back. Is it a problem of tension? Lubrication? Any ideas?
 

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Ok, I managed to let loose those nuts. Next step: throtle feels stiff as f**k. I can pull the throttle, it moves hard like muddy and it wont go back. Is it a problem of tension? Lubrication? Any ideas?
Incorrectly adjusted, mainly the return cable or your grips throttle locking star knob is turned in too far adding friction. Incorrectly adjusted cables will add friction to the grip section too. There is a procedure for cable adjustment in the SM.
Ron
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, I have tried to follow the manual, but not having much luck. The star knob is that plastic thing below the grip casing? If so, I havent touched it. Tightening the adjusting nut, releases the cable, and loosening it, tightens the cable right?
 

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The star nut below the throttle tube is for adding friction, a “throttle lock” of sorts. Think of it as a poor mans cruise control. Lots of guys use it that way. Turn the star wheel in until it’s snug. The throttle should be difficult to turn. Then back it off 1-2 rotations. If the throttle is still tight, time for process of elimination. Could be one of the cables binding, the throttle tube binding on the bars or something binding in the linkage at the engine (throttle bodies). Disconnect the cables and the keys each item one at a time.
 
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