Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner

861 - 870 of 870 Posts

·
Departed the Fix.
Joined
·
5,182 Posts
Discussion Starter #861
Oh-- on a completely unrelated note.

I don't get here very often anymore since I LOATHE the new forum layout.

But, I finally got around to fixing the error code that I got when I installed my Oberon levers-- I basically broke a little part inside and just jobbed it out to H-D since a) it was messy and b) wasn't all that expensive.

The combination of the Oberon adjustable levers AND the Oberon clutch slave cylinder?

OUTSTANDING. Highly, HIGHLY recommended.

And with that, the F is in (semi-) long-term storage over at a buddy's house. With the introduction of the M2C into the family, the F and the Kendon trailer had to go somewhere else (I can fit the big GS in front of my wife's Miata). I traded a buddy a spare car for half his garage. He's only 15 minutes away, so I can swap bikes easily enough-- but I'm trying to Road Trip the GS at the end of May, so it's staying in my garage for the moment.

R.
 

·
EJ
Joined
·
22 Posts
Headlight wiring all cleaned up behind the housing and beam adjusted.
Just put the same headlight on - except I went with the stainless finish. Thought it matched the forks and the brace well. Really like it. Almost as good as the stock Daymaker. The wisdom and knowledge you've shared on this site is definitely a huge value. Much appreciated!
 

·
Departed the Fix.
Joined
·
5,182 Posts
Discussion Starter #863
Just put the same headlight on - except I went with the stainless finish. Thought it matched the forks and the brace well. Really like it. Almost as good as the stock Daymaker. The wisdom and knowledge you've shared on this site is definitely a huge value. Much appreciated!
I started with the polished aluminum finish (there are pictures somewhere near the end of this thread), but it really didn't seem to suit the bike.

I ended up getting the housing powder coated satin black and I'm MUCH happier with it.

I also wired the halo so it comes on when the Aux switch is flipped-- and it stays on with both low and high beam.

Thanks for the compliment about sharing knowledge. Much appreciated.

R.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
So, today was a fun day.

Here are a few pics about what I found when I pulled the old belt-damaged tank out.

The tank was pretty obviously defective to me-- but it beats me how that happened. Best guess is a manufacturing defect or a bad mold. The ONLY thing my buddy and I could come up with was an overpressure, but that's really reaching-- the tank is pretty solid and the tank vent works as advertised (we tested it). There's a very noticeable bow in the tank right where it got cut by the belt. Unfortunately, it doesn't photograph well, but hopefully you'll get the idea.

If you have a 2012 (or any year, honestly), I'd REALLY recommend taking a good look at your tank/belt clearance-- I can't imagine that my tank was the only bad one.

With the new tank, I'm looking at about a quarter inch of clearance between it and the belt, which I think is about right.

I didn't bother with fabricating a shield. Too much effort and I'm not entirely sure the adhesive I had would have worked) and with the clearances I had, I don't think this will be a problem moving forward.

Oh-- and having a 14mm hex socket is a good thing to have for the swingarm before you pull the bike apart. Emergency Tool Sortie was required-- you've got to love Harbor Freight Tools!

Bike is somewhat put back together, but since I have everything torn apart, I think I'll finish up wiring the Heat Demons and GPS. I don't really feel like taking the bike apart twice.

I also swapped out a new fuel sender unit today. Can't hurt, and might actually work better than the old one.


605358
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
Usually belt tension or misalignment because of the slop in the poor snailcam adjusting system that causes this.
 

·
Departed the Fix.
Joined
·
5,182 Posts
Discussion Starter #866
Usually belt tension or misalignment because of the slop in the poor snailcam adjusting system that causes this.
A few problems with your answer--

1. All belt alignments were checked and were in spec and in accordance w/ factory tolerances.

2. The tank was very obviously bowed out-- when compared to the new replacement tank, the curve of the area that cut was plain to see, so the tank was definitely faulty. Additionally, at the time this happened I did some fairly in-depth research and there were similar issues of the same type of problem on a few other bikes. I suspect that H-D had a bad batch of tank moldings but despite documented evidence, H-D's standard response was "First we've heard of it"-- which was a provable lie.

3. The snail cam adjusts belt tension fore-aft, not left-right. The clearance issue was left-right-- which is why the tank bow was the issue. Belt tension was (and continues) to be set to spec using the H-D belt tension tool and shop manual.

4. This issue happened over five years ago-- and belt clearance to date is identical to what was when I first did the job. The problem never reoccurred.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,258 Posts
Tank looks to be bulged there. Now, if one has this issue and most likely it's from the manufacturing process, this area can actually be heat formed inward to provide all the clearance you desire. If one is a crafty bastard, a belt channel can be molded in, using a bar stock. I made a guard way back but it's never made contact, yet. I agree with all the above but the axle cams do not exactly provide straight line alignment to front wheel and straight line to the wheel and trans sprocket. There's just enough play in the right cam slot for about 1/2- 1 degree of shift. It really is a shit design with the only benefit being for the fools on the assembly line. Tolerance, yes, precision, no.
Ron
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,378 Posts
A few problems with your answer--

1. All belt alignments were checked and were in spec and in accordance w/ factory tolerances.

2. The tank was very obviously bowed out-- when compared to the new replacement tank, the curve of the area that cut was plain to see, so the tank was definitely faulty. Additionally, at the time this happened I did some fairly in-depth research and there were similar issues of the same type of problem on a few other bikes. I suspect that H-D had a bad batch of tank moldings but despite documented evidence, H-D's standard response was "First we've heard of it"-- which was a provable lie.

3. The snail cam adjusts belt tension fore-aft, not left-right. The clearance issue was left-right-- which is why the tank bow was the issue. Belt tension was (and continues) to be set to spec using the H-D belt tension tool and shop manual.

4. This issue happened over five years ago-- and belt clearance to date is identical to what was when I first did the job. The problem never reoccurred.
Sorry FBJ I thought I was replying to "Turiec"
I thought he had the same problem and had misposted inside of your original post otherwise I wouldn't have replied. I remember your problem being a while ago. My bad!
 

·
Departed the Fix.
Joined
·
5,182 Posts
Discussion Starter #869
So-- my buddy and I did a 1600 mile (round trip) road trip last week. I was on the GS and he was on the F. Sadly, the F is now my "other" bike.

We rode about 400 miles each day. Denver to Cortez (in SW CO), then Cortez to St. George, UT through Monument Valley. The temperature at the end of the ride was about 109 degrees-- and the F didn't simply didn't care.

We crewed for my wife while she did the HooDoo 300-- her and a girlfriend rode 300 miles in 18.5 hours on bicycles-- all at race pace-- breaking the two-person female team record by over an hour (the race has been run for 11 years). They would usually do anywhere from 1/2 mile to 3 mile pulls, and leapfrog each other. Top speed on her bike was about 47 mph during the descent, and about 5 mph on some of the climbs. I'm damn proud of her.

On the way back, she drove home and my buddy and I rode to Durango, spent the night, then did the Million Dollar Highway on the way home. Temp was just about 40 degrees, so we went from very hot to pretty darn cold in less than 50 miles.

The F rode like a champion. My buddy said that the Bitchin' Seat was worth every penny and we both thought the Gen-III Eagle LED light was great in the day and at night.

One thing I noticed (since I usually ride the F) is that both the front amber mirror-stalk lights and the rear tail light are much more directional than you'd think. I thought something was wrong with one of the stalk lights since it appeared dim in my mirror, but we adjusted it just a tiny bit, and it was the same intensity as the other.

Oh-- and the TAB Performance pipes? They sound really good, but they're a bit loud if the F is in front-- I ended up being Lead most of the time since the GS had Nav and cruise control, so that wasn't an issue at all.

The F's saddle bags aren't the greatest, but they got the job done. I really wish you could lock them though. I've modified them so I can pull them on/off in about 15-20 min total (including removing the AW rear footpeg mounts that I use and installing stock F ones with the bags)

Fun ride. It was cool to be able to ride on the side of the F and see everything moving on it-- it's a damn good bike.

But, it's also a damn dirty bike that's going to need some serious TLC. I'm headed to Mexico for a week with the Wife for vacation, then as soon as I get home, I'm taking the GS on a solo ride through CO-NE-IA-MN-WI-(Upper Peninsula ) MI-MI-OH-IN-IL-MO-KS and home. Just something to do before the weather changes for good. When I get back, I'll have to make both bikes all pretty before they go to bed for the winter (well, at least the F-- the GS gets ridden in any conditions other than snow, because heated gear is awesome!)

R.
 
861 - 870 of 870 Posts
Top