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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ran -016, no Auto Tune.....I put this one in the "JUNK" file. It was suppose to be for a Muscle with TABS 2.5" baffles, stock or aftermarket filter. I kind of knew when uploading that it was going to be S$%^ but had to try. Dyno Jet claims that they will only post maps that they run on their dyno. This one must only be for dyno pulls because it is not road friendly, decel pop way bad, pop, gurgle, stutter from 2500 to 5000 rpms at light throttle. Seen 15 to 1 or leaner AFRs at idle, at cruise one cylinder was running 14.7 to as lean as 15.5 to 1. There's more but I will stop here.

I am now looking to see what map I am going to try next. I thinking about going to maybe -017 or -018. I was even thinking about going back to the original -011 map again now that I am alot smarter.

Sorry Dyno Jet a "BIG THUMBS DOWN FOR MAP -016" I did go back to my map during the same ride and the bike went right back to normal.

Anyone else try a map and found it way off? Please post your findings.

PS>>>>I barely beat the rain home. I am about tired of this bs. This has got to be one of the wettest July/August I have seen in 13 years of living in Alaska.
 

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I tried a few maps off of there also. Eash one was all too lean. Didnt like ANY of the ones I tried.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the confirmation on my post. I know there is more out there so please post your info. If the techs are truely reading this as they say they are maybe we can get this resolved.

I understand the maps may be a bit lean as they are tuning in Vegas but these are ridiculous.
 

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I've tried all different ones, and the closest I found was the new one for AW/DX with stock filter and tab baffled slash cuts. It runs good everywhere except the cruising range. I split the map by the gear, and richened up certain cells. It's getting better the more I ride and tweak it. But nah...never found one I liked right off the bat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I've tried all different ones, and the closest I found was the new one for AW/DX with stock filter and tab baffled slash cuts. It runs good everywhere except the cruising range. I split the map by the gear, and richened up certain cells. It's getting better the more I ride and tweak it. But nah...never found one I liked right off the bat.
Yeah but one running leaner then 15 to 1 AFR is looking for trouble.

As soon as I hit the highway, got to cruise it was banging (popping) away, pulled off and went back to my map. I should have known better when I seen the 15 to 1 at idle during warmup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rain.....

For those that thought that I have just been a little whiney about the rain here lately.....it's now offical, here in Anchorage, Alaska we have had 28 straight days (new all time record) with some type of moisture falling from the sky.

So as of today I still have not got, anymore testing done on some other maps.

I have barely made 2000 miles this year. This tme last year I was well over 5000 miles. As soon I go back to work Wednesday I'm sure it will get bright and sunny....and because the road is being relocated going to our facility no riding to work either. They are putting down 6 inch minus and had to get out of the car twice to move rocks from in front of the car because they were to big to drive over. So it looks like the truck will be the daily driver for awhile till the snow flies.
 

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I new to the 1130cc. I look around alot never really post but this tread is a good start. I have a 08 night rod. tab baffled exhaust, se air filter topless. I used every map on here that was close to my altitude and bolt ons.They all pop/ on cruise. Some way to rich, most to lean. I am thinking of just getting it dynoed and tuned but dont really want to pay. I have a question for you guys, how do you know you r exact air/fuel ratio. Is that what the bars are for on the PC3. I tried to find what they mean but never had luck. any help would be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok they finally got the new pave down and I laid down a good 75 feet of black mark on the new pavement.....No testing just riding and enjoying a little. Should be down to cords when the new skins get here this week. By the way cleaned the bike up all nice and pretty this morning, sunny, great ride and as I turn for home there they are dark looming clouds and I got dumped on as I made the last turn for home, so I am back to a road brown over my black painted bike. Back to experimenting this week. Will let all know if I can find any DynoJet programs to work on the Muscle. Still trying to get a few more maps from dyno tuned bikes. If you have them and would care to share please post them up.

Flat1250 welcome to 1130cc.com

PCIII guys need to have them dyno'd to get the proper AFR. Us PC V guys with Auto Tune and LCD screens are reading/data logging to see what our AFR's are doing.
 

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I just ran -016, no Auto Tune.....I put this one in the "JUNK" file. It was suppose to be for a Muscle with TABS 2.5" baffles, stock or aftermarket filter. I kind of knew when uploading that it was going to be S$%^ but had to try. Dyno Jet claims that they will only post maps that they run on their dyno. This one must only be for dyno pulls because it is not road friendly, decel pop way bad, pop, gurgle, stutter from 2500 to 5000 rpms at light throttle. Seen 15 to 1 or leaner AFRs at idle, at cruise one cylinder was running 14.7 to as lean as 15.5 to 1. There's more but I will stop here.

I am now looking to see what map I am going to try next. I thinking about going to maybe -017 or -018. I was even thinking about going back to the original -011 map again now that I am alot smarter.

Sorry Dyno Jet a "BIG THUMBS DOWN FOR MAP -016" I did go back to my map during the same ride and the bike went right back to normal.

Anyone else try a map and found it way off? Please post your findings.

PS>>>>I barely beat the rain home. I am about tired of this bs. This has got to be one of the wettest July/August I have seen in 13 years of living in Alaska.
Why are you screwing with downloaded maps? If you can read AFR's you must have auto tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Why are you screwing with downloaded maps? If you can read AFR's you must have auto tune.
And your point is????

So maybe I am wrong and maybe I need someone to explain exactly how this works. So please tell me that I have been doing this all wrong now for almost 2 years on 2 bikes and 2 snowmobiles and that there is an easier way then loading maps and trying to see if they are better then what I have developed myself without a "DYNO". Yes I have the AT and LCD screen to data log the info and come home to review.

I also am not afraid to load a map that has been developed by DJ or anyone else and post up that it does or does not work. If their maps are so good then why are there other retailers developing their own map sets? Because they are finding out that the map sets that DJ is producing, does not work universally across the US or for that matter the World.

I really love when people say, "you have Auto Tune just plug it in and go, it tunes itself".

Sorry for the Monday Rant but either you are not using the PC V with AT or you really do not know how the system works or you are one of the very few that has one bike that is absolutely perfect 100% of the time......the rest of us have not been that lucky.
 

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how is that PC V? IS the auto tune really good. I might just switch over to that. I am getting cams this winter, so what would be better? auto tune or use the PC3 and get it dynoed. I am a auto tech and am very aware of every little exhaust note, it tells alot about fuel ratio. Will a dyno tune really be "perfect"?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The PC V by itself is basically a PC III with more options. As far as the Auto Tune...if you have a large change in weather/temperature, altitude, or may have the occasion to get bad fuel the AT will help correct for those issues, or if you just want the bike to run consistantly then add the AT.

As far as requiring a Dyno tuning. It really depends. If running the AT and you find an AFR map that works with your ride and your happy, dyno tuning would not be absolutely neccessary. As far as a Dyno Tune being perfect, not really, depends at how well they duplicate real world conditions in the booth.

Being an Auto Tech and with the LCD screen/data logging you can do most of it yourself, but finding that good starting point is going to be hard.
 

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And your point is????

So maybe I am wrong and maybe I need someone to explain exactly how this works. So please tell me that I have been doing this all wrong now for almost 2 years on 2 bikes and 2 snowmobiles and that there is an easier way then loading maps and trying to see if they are better then what I have developed myself without a "DYNO". Yes I have the AT and LCD screen to data log the info and come home to review.

I also am not afraid to load a map that has been developed by DJ or anyone else and post up that it does or does not work. If their maps are so good then why are there other retailers developing their own map sets? Because they are finding out that the map sets that DJ is producing, does not work universally across the US or for that matter the World.

I really love when people say, "you have Auto Tune just plug it in and go, it tunes itself".

Sorry for the Monday Rant but either you are not using the PC V with AT or you really do not know how the system works or you are one of the very few that has one bike that is absolutely perfect 100% of the time......the rest of us have not been that lucky.
I know very well how the system works, I've spent hours and hours studying it and all the various tuners available.

The point of autotune is to create your own map, and allow the addon unit to make small adjustments to that base. If after two years you don't have a near perfect map something is wrong. Bad PC-V, a pipe that doesn't work with auto tune, bad O2 sensors, or user error. The one thing that's obvious is that it isn't working for you, my goal would be to try and pinpoint the reason for that failure. Or it could be that you enjoy tinkering with the tune, lot's of people do, and it can be very a very satisfying hobby.

I guess I am one of those lucky guy's who's bike runs well. I can't say it's perfect because it's never been on a dyno. I can say it doesn't pop, sputter or miss. It pulls hard from idle to red line, and goes from red line to idle with very aggressive down shifting and not a single pop. I don't look for maps, I don't worry about reversion or what it's doing to my AFR, I don't tinker with fuel tables. If I'm leaving 10hp on the table I'm fine with that, because the bike runs as I would expect any modern engine to run, well and reliably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I know very well how the system works, I've spent hours and hours studying it and all the various tuners available.

The point of autotune is to create your own map, and allow the addon unit to make small adjustments to that base. If after two years you don't have a near perfect map something is wrong. Bad PC-V, a pipe that doesn't work with auto tune, bad O2 sensors, or user error. The one thing that's obvious is that it isn't working for you, my goal would be to try and pinpoint the reason for that failure. Or it could be that you enjoy tinkering with the tune, lot's of people do, and it can be very a very satisfying hobby.

I guess I am one of those lucky guy's who's bike runs well. I can't say it's perfect because it's never been on a dyno. I can say it doesn't pop, sputter or miss. It pulls hard from idle to red line, and goes from red line to idle with very aggressive down shifting and not a single pop. I don't look for maps, I don't worry about reversion or what it's doing to my AFR, I don't tinker with fuel tables. If I'm leaving 10hp on the table I'm fine with that, because the bike runs as I would expect any modern engine to run, well and reliably.
Post up your map. I would be interested in seeing your AFR map and base map. I will also post my opinion.

I have never said that I am unhappy with the map I have currently developed. At 117 hp and well into the 80+ lbs of Tq, I must not know what I am doing. When you say autotune....you are forgetting that you need to still establish a proper AFR map.

Being self employed leaves me alot of time to test other maps and post my findings. Very few people who have their bike dynoed share their maps, I am the other way. I will share all my info, dynoed and/or real world as I have tested. This allows most to skip over a map that is totally crap and not waste a day of a 2 day weekend looking for something better.

Your own statement says it all...you are "happy" even if it is not running correctly. Get on a unit that is properly tuned and then say you are still happy with the way your bike runs. MHO
 

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I'm now completely baffled. I at first thought you were having trouble tuning your bike. Then I thought you were having a problem with autotune, as you seemed to indicate that anyone with a properly running bike is lucky. Now you're saying your bike runs fine, and you test maps as a hobby. Why didn't you simply state that when I asked why you were screwing around with downloaded maps? It's sometimes a little hard to tell if someone is sharing information or describing a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm now completely baffled. I at first thought you were having trouble tuning your bike. Then I thought you were having a problem with autotune, as you seemed to indicate that anyone with a properly running bike is lucky. Now you're saying your bike runs fine, and you test maps as a hobby. Why didn't you simply state that when I asked why you were screwing around with downloaded maps? It's sometimes a little hard to tell if someone is sharing information or describing a problem.
Sorry Malcom let me back up a couple of steps and bring those who have not been following for the last year.

My bike ran like crap out of the box...injector eventually replaced.

Still had stumble and pop between 3 to 4k.

Got one of the 1st PC V and AT, plus a set of TABS.

I could now easily hear the pop and from what cylinder after TAB install.

Had bike Dyno tuned....they turned off the AutoTune and did not build an AFR map. Bike ran a 109 hp and 78 tq. Just about what everyone else was seeing.

Bike ran ok.....still had the 3 to 4k problem, went back twice to not have it resolved. It's been an issue with V Rods for awhile as I have now been told.

Built an AFR map to match the base map that was built on a dyno. Did some fine tuning on the AFR map and worked out most of the 3 to 4 k problem. Went back to the dyno and squeeked out a 117hp and 80+ tq.

Got the LCD screen after the riding season had ended here in AK. Put a PC V and AT on my sled with the LCD screen and went to tuning there and learning the data log pros and cons.

Started out early this year, March, with some more tuning and now I have a GREAT running bike.

So now I am getting a bunch of PMs and email about help tuning and working maps for people. Most trying to run the Dyno Jet maps, which I have been told, are "Dyno Tuned Maps", and they are not running very well. So I took it upon myself to try running them myself and post what I am finding. Granted I am concentrating on the Muscle maps but also looking to see if any other maps will work. I have a few non "F" bikes running my map and they are happy. Then on the other hand there are some "F"s still having issues.

So in the time I have been on this site I have developed a world wide network of folks that are willing to try some of the things that I have come up with and see if they are better and more universal then we currently are being told is good enough.

So that is the reason for the thread. To build a knowledge base of what others are seeing running the rest of the DJ maps.

No one just wants to give up their dyno maps. Especially if it's one that throws down some good numbers. There has only been one to date(other then me) that has shared his dyno'd map and that has been Old School. It was a good map for most to base from and adjust AFR's some. Last when it comes to the Muscle we seem to have a majority of the recent issues.

So please share your PC V maps. If I am doing something wrong tell me. So what is the AT tuning to if I am or if I don't have the proper AFR data loaded. If I am upsetting DJ tell me too, but what they are claiming as dyno tuned maps are way off, based on their LCD screen and data log that I am using. I am not just driving around the block to decide if they are good or bad.
 

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Now I get it! And I'm sorry to say that I'm not going to be of any use to you. I'm running the stock ECM with voltage dividers on the O2 sensors. I run 13.8:1 in closed loop. I'm also running near stock pipes. I used to run PC-III, but it never ran as well as it does with the stock system.
I have heard of several people having a problem tuning the F's around the 3500rpm range, but I'm not very familiar with the issue, I had always assumed it was somehow exhaust related. My entirely uneducated wild ass guess is that the crossover is at the root of the problem.
Good luck!

I never found a single map that worked well when I ran a PC-III. The answer to every issue was dump more gas in it. It was horrible, I could smell gas sitting at a stop light, there was a lot of gas in the oil, and I only had an 80 mile range, and it spit out black soot like a diesel.
 

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When I first tried the PCIII, I had trouble from the start. The engine would stall as soon as I let off the gas. AND this was all stock. Couldn't figure it out, played with the maps leaner, richer, nothing made any difference. Then I started to write to PC for technical help and the email form asked what firmware version I was running. I asked myself - What firmware? I never saw any firmware step in the instructions.

So I dig into the website again and come across a single line that says:
"Fuel Firmware for Harley Davidson PCIIIUSB & 2008 Polaris Victory 100. Also works with #938-511"
Located at:

http://www.powercommander.com/power...wercommander_downloads.aspx?ProdType=PCIIIUSB

Once I loaded this firmware everything clicked into place and the motor started and idled fine and have been running it all summer without a problem. It did lower the mileage, but that is to be expected since the PCIII basically adds fuel to the cylinders.

As I read these posts they sounded similar to the problem I had with the PCIII.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have heard of several people having a problem tuning the F's around the 3500rpm range, but I'm not very familiar with the issue, I had always assumed it was somehow exhaust related. My entirely uneducated wild ass guess is that the crossover is at the root of the problem.
Good luck!

I never found a single map that worked well when I ran a PC-III. The answer to every issue was dump more gas in it. It was horrible, I could smell gas sitting at a stop light, there was a lot of gas in the oil, and I only had an 80 mile range, and it spit out black soot like a diesel.
I agree about the crossover plus O2 location could be our problem with the F's.

Seen the same black soot after my money was somewhat wasted on a dyno tune.
 
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