Harley Davidson V-Rod Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey Everyone, it's me back again with yet another Noob question. I picked up my 2016 DX last summer and in about 2 weeks I'm going to get an 2012/2013 F as well. Call me sick like that.. (I dunno).

Question is on my DX the friction zone catches at about 95% of full release of my left hand. 5% to full extension is not a lot of forgiveness between the friction zone and a full dump of the clutch. I've learned to deal with it. I just want to know is it that way on all VRod(s)? Is it that way with most Harley(s), other than VRod(s)?

I ask this question cuz I learned on an old 80s Kawasaki LDT 1000 back in the day, and last year I took Harley's equivalent of the MSF and they give you a "Street" to use (which is the biggest, unsafe, POS... IMO) but I digress. Point being, with both of these bikes.. the friction zone was around 50% of the clutch release. So again I pose the question: Is it that way on all VRod(s)? - Is it that way with most Harley(s), other than VRod(s)?

The reason I'm concerned is there is no smooth take off from the friction zone at all. I have to constantly give it gas at a stop light as 5% is no room for error. In the beginning I'd killed it plenty of times on take off with a car behind me and that scared me 5hitless. Until I figured out the right combo of clutch, gas and break at a stop light.

Thoughts, comments anyone?
 

·
"Vrod King"
Joined
·
910 Posts
I kinda always hated how the clutch levers were on the Vrods with where they operated at. I made the switch over to the Oberon adjustable levers on all of mine and it is like day and night. Dial them to our own setting and go. You get rid of all that extra wasted movement you are doing with your hand.
 

·
-MIG
Joined
·
64 Posts
For Delilah, my '16 Muscle, the friction zone is towards the end of the lever travel. For my Triumph Rocket III and my brides Fat Boy, it's more centered... but none of them feel the same. I have to re-adapt to the one I'm on each time I switch rides. That said, only Delilah has a hydraulic clutch and since this is my first non-cable clutch bike... I don't know if that's universal.
-MIG
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
Scott - compare your DX clutch action with the F you're going to buy - they should feel exactly the same, if not the clutch on the DX may be close to worn out and not hooking up until almost out of clutch lever travel - shouldn't be worn out on a 2016 bike but you never know how the prior owner treated it. On my R Model with a 30 tooth fwd pulley I actually " double clutch " it from a stop, especially 2 up, releasing it just enough into the friction zone to get the bike rolling, pulling it in slightly then completing full release while rolling along 20 feet later. This prevents bucking and stalling. Sounds like you may have figured this out and trained your clutch hand to adapt to the Revo hydro clutch but if you can't partially release the clutch and modulate the narrow friction zone without just fully releasing the lever something is wrong either with your hand or the clutch. Check the F clutch action out. (y):cool:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,358 Posts
The reason I'm concerned is there is no smooth take off from the friction zone at all. I have to constantly give it gas at a stop light as 5% is no room for error. In the beginning I'd killed it plenty of times on take off with a car behind me and that scared me 5hitless. Until I figured out the right combo of clutch, gas and break at a stop light.

Thoughts, comments anyone?
This should not be this issue. You might need to diagnose what the problem is. Maybe replace the clutch fluid, Maybe check brakes for binding, slave cylinder binding? etc.
 

·
VRSC est -03
Joined
·
2,858 Posts
Time for fluid change. Easy and cheap fix. Brakes too?
Do a read up on the gaskets for the master cylinder covers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
803 Posts
Also when your using excessive revs and trying to use a friction zone on a dual ramping clutch, you are causing premature by loading up the slipper clutch engagement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Scott - compare your DX clutch action with the F you're going to buy - they should feel exactly the same, if not the clutch on the DX may be close to worn out and not hooking up until almost out of clutch lever travel - shouldn't be worn out on a 2016 bike but you never know how the prior owner treated it. On my R Model with a 30 tooth fwd pulley I actually " double clutch " it from a stop, especially 2 up, releasing it just enough into the friction zone to get the bike rolling, pulling it in slightly then completing full release while rolling along 20 feet later. This prevents bucking and stalling. Sounds like you may have figured this out and trained your clutch hand to adapt to the Revo hydro clutch but if you can't partially release the clutch and modulate the narrow friction zone without just fully releasing the lever something is wrong either with your hand or the clutch. Check the F clutch action out. (y):cool:
Just got the F “JLo”: Buying my F on Monday any last min pointers?

But if I compare F to DX; the DX sill has a stiffer clutch. At this point the DX and F have about the same miles... and I just bought the F yesterday ... so what gives??? Thoughts anyone?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
Either the DX has stiffer clutch springs installed or a maybe a hydraulic problem like a sticking, dragging slave cylinder piston I would think ? Flush out the old clutch fluid to see if that helps and see what comes out of the bleeder tube into your bleeder or can - might be ugly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Can you explain the meaning of this statement? " there is no smooth take off from the friction zone at all "
Ron
Well I guess where I’m going with this is that you should be able to control your bikes take off. Basics.. Smooth pull in off the clutch, smooth let out; agreed?

What’s happening is I need to overcompensate with the gas because by the time I let my hand fully extend its like I’m popping the clutch. So just a recap from the beginning it’s like the friction zone starts at 95% of my hand released. 5% is not a lot of room for a smooth release.

I kind of agree with the other guys comment that it feels like the clutch spring is just really tight. Let me put it to you this way, my index and pointer finger were 2x more swollen than my ring and pinky by the end of the season last year.

again returning to the beginning of the statement I’ve rode other bikes and the friction zone starts at about 50% of the clutch release.

One of my buddies said “you only have 1k miles on it. The clutch isn’t even broken in yet.” but not even my new F’s clutch is as stiff they both have about 1500 on them. But the DX is just rough...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,358 Posts
Scott there are hand controls that can help with your problem. Oberon makes adjustable levers that significantly reduce pressure and where the clutch engages. They are kind of expensive but very effective. I am sure there are other aftermarket levers that do much the same thing.
Here is a LINK to their web site. They are out of the UK but you may be able to procure locally..
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,358 Posts
My deepest apologies or offending the Brits. I corrected my post.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top