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durata membro
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Where would the best location be to take the temp reading on the Rod? I'll be installing a gauge to moniter before and after temps,to learn about different rad grill designs.

:biker:



Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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ElrodontheV-Rod said:
Where would the best location be to take the temp reading on the Rod? I'll be installing a gauge to moniter before and after temps,to learn about different rad grill designs.

:biker:



Elrod on the V-Rod
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: Just use a Heat Gun! :thumb:
 

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ElrodontheV-Rod said:
Where would the best location be to take the temp reading on the Rod?
I am not at all certain that this gizmo would even work with the V-Rod, but since there is a handy ODB II port on the bike - you might want to take a look at CarChip E/X. This model apparently has the ability to monitor a whole bunch of different operating parameters (including coolant temps), which you then download to your computer.

I think it will be very difficult, even with this sort of data collection tool, to generate scientifically accurate data without access to a windtunnel/dyno setup. You would need to have identical bikes, in identical climatic conditions, and on identical courses to be able to come up with a base and comparison data series. Moreover, given the combination of thermostats, fans, etc. I doubt that the engine coolant is going to run at significantly higher temperatures, regardless of what sort of screen you place over the radiator shroud. What IS likely is that the temperatures would climb quicker, and the fans would cycle more frequently if any sort of obstruction is placed in front of the radiator. Cycling the fans is not necessarily a bad thing - but it will put more strain on your battery, and wear the fan motors out quicker.

Maybe Max would care to comment on whether the CarChip would work with the V-Rod?
 

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ElrodontheV-Rod said:
I have a hair dryer or a 762 by 39 czech aka Which do you think would be the best?

Elrod on the V-Rod
Kaz meant an IR (InfraRed) temperature meter.

You can get a temp gauge kit from Breathless Performance, but I have seen a few complaints about their quality.
 

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DCLittlejohn said:
Kaz meant an IR (InfraRed) temperature meter.

You can get a temp gauge kit from Breathless Performance, but I have seen a few complaints about their quality.
I run the Breathless and it works great!Are bikes take forever to heat up when it's cold out! :eek:
 

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durata membro
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know what Kaz meant,I'm a smartass too.You can move a temp gun inches and get a drastic varience.It shouldn't matter where I just was trying to figure the best spot for the reading.Maybe at the CTS for the ECM. I don't want it to be a temporary gauge.



Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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I agree with vroddrew that it will be difficult to determine exactly how the grills affect coolant temperature. I have done a lot of V-Rod temperature testing with non-vrod radiators, and it's not an easy task. Despite this, here are a few temperature reading methods I've used. The Scanalyzer is the easiest if you can get one. The others are not so simple. Don't forget there's also an oil cooler (below the "water" radiator), though the oil should be affected in the same way as the water.

1) The Scanalyzer can show real-time temperature. I've ridden around with it attached (see first photo). Unfortunately, the price for this setup is several hundred bucks, and your dealer must be pretty friendly before they'll sell you the module that plugs into it. I sure would like to know if a generic ODB-II code reader would work on the V-Rod (Max???).

2) If you're willing to get into the wiring, you can tap into the ECT Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (back side of water pump, between cylinders) with a volt meter. Connect + lead to Pink/Yellow wire, and - lead to Black/White wire. Same connections are available on the Instrument Module connector (same color wires, + = Pin 6, - = Pin 26). To convert this voltage to temperature, follow this conversion table:
Voltage | Temp (degrees F)
4.02V = 14F
3.52V = 32F
2.94V = 50F
2.35V = 68F
1.81V = 86F
1.35V or 4.05V = 104F *
0.99V or 3.7V = 122F *
3.31V = 140F
2.88V = 158F
2.46V = 176F
2.06V = 194F
1.71V = 212F
1.40V = 230F
* Between 104F and 122F, the ECM changes scaling. Voltages for ECT sensor will shift scales in that range. This provides proper sensor resolution for all temperatures.

3) Since you may not need ACTUAL coolant temperature, but rather temperature DIFFERENCE between two grill setups, you can buy a simple and cheap oven cooking (turkey) thermometer, digital or analog (see second photo). Find a place on the OUTLET end of the radiator, attach it with good solid contact with the metal radiator surface (for good heat transfer). Buy a second one for ambient air temperature so you know you're always comparing numbers under the same outside temperature conditions.

Other relevant numbers:
- Coolant thermostat begins to open at 185F.
- Fans turn off below 195F.
- Fans turn on above 203F (according to manual), mine goes on at 205F.
- Thermostat is fully open at 212F.
- Temperature lamp off below 220F.
- Temperature lamp on above 235F.

For those looking for various materials to make their own grill, McMaster-Carr has all kinds of wire mesh and expanded metal. Pick your material: Stainless, Aluminum, Titanium, Plastic, ...):
Grill Materials HERE
 

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durata membro
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank You, thats sorta-kinda what I was looking for.As soon as the new roof is on my house I'll be playing around.



Elrod on the V-Rod
 

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Zijspan said:
I agree with vroddrew that it will be difficult to determine exactly how the grills affect coolant temperature. I have done a lot of V-Rod temperature testing with non-vrod radiators, and it's not an easy task. Despite this, here are a few temperature reading methods I've used. The Scanalyzer is the easiest if you can get one. The others are not so simple. Don't forget there's also an oil cooler (below the "water" radiator), though the oil should be affected in the same way as the water.

1) The Scanalyzer can show real-time temperature. I've ridden around with it attached (see first photo). Unfortunately, the price for this setup is several hundred bucks, and your dealer must be pretty friendly before they'll sell you the module that plugs into it. I sure would like to know if a generic ODB-II code reader would work on the V-Rod (Max???).

2) If you're willing to get into the wiring, you can tap into the ECT Engine Coolant Temperature sensor (back side of water pump, between cylinders) with a volt meter. Connect + lead to Pink/Yellow wire, and - lead to Black/White wire. Same connections are available on the Instrument Module connector (same color wires, + = Pin 6, - = Pin 26). To convert this voltage to temperature, follow this conversion table:
Voltage | Temp (degrees F)
4.02V = 14F
3.52V = 32F
2.94V = 50F
2.35V = 68F
1.81V = 86F
1.35V or 4.05V = 104F *
0.99V or 3.7V = 122F *
3.31V = 140F
2.88V = 158F
2.46V = 176F
2.06V = 194F
1.71V = 212F
1.40V = 230F
* Between 104F and 122F, the ECM changes scaling. Voltages for ECT sensor will shift scales in that range. This provides proper sensor resolution for all temperatures.

3) Since you may not need ACTUAL coolant temperature, but rather temperature DIFFERENCE between two grill setups, you can buy a simple and cheap oven cooking (turkey) thermometer, digital or analog (see second photo). Find a place on the OUTLET end of the radiator, attach it with good solid contact with the metal radiator surface (for good heat transfer). Buy a second one for ambient air temperature so you know you're always comparing numbers under the same outside temperature conditions.

Other relevant numbers:
- Coolant thermostat begins to open at 185F.
- Fans turn off below 195F.
- Fans turn on above 203F (according to manual), mine goes on at 205F.
- Thermostat is fully open at 212F.
- Temperature lamp off below 220F.
- Temperature lamp on above 235F.

For those looking for various materials to make their own grill, McMaster-Carr has all kinds of wire mesh and expanded metal. Pick your material: Stainless, Aluminum, Titanium, Plastic, ...):
Grill Materials HERE
Your are the TEMP MAN! :notworth: Dame I thought I was ANAL about my stuff! ;) Thats impressive.I have trained quite a few professional motorcycle racerS and very few are as SAVY as YOU!You see the big Picture and very few riders do!I've learned if you want to be the best you hang out and learn from the best.You my friend have POTENTIAL! :thumb:
 

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Super Kaz said:
Your are the TEMP MAN! :notworth: Dame I thought I was ANAL about my stuff! ;) Thats impressive.I have trained quite a few professional motorcycle racerS and very few are as SAVY as YOU!You see the big Picture and very few riders do!I've learned if you want to be the best you hang out and learn from the best.You my friend have POTENTIAL! :thumb:
Thanks Kaz,
I gotta know this stuff for Dakar. When one takes a V-Rod up hills like this (see photo, where I test my V-Rod) in 120 degrees F temps, ya gotta know how to keep your cool!

If you wanna know about V-Rod Watts, there's lots of my anal technical stuff here:
V-Rod generator capability
Someone might need to know if the generator supplies enough extra power for two NOS solenoids and possibly a second fuel pump!

When I'm ready for more horsepower, I know where to go! :kaz:

Scott
 

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