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As some of you may know, I was cut off by a tow truck driver on the 4th. My bike went down on the right side. The damage was about $5,000. Obviously the giant stock mufflers were trashed. I will probably replace them with a set of TAB slash cuts but have the following Q's:

1. Are they powder or ceramic coated???? I'm worried about the heat damaging the finish.

2. How well does the color match the heatshields?

3. Anyone have any structural or vibration issues since the lower rear and upper rear exhaust brackets are eliminated?

4. With or Without baffles???????
 

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Same questions for me. I have scrapped the idea of getting the force streetfighter bullets and lookin at the Tab Performance slash cuts. Could use some info myself, especially whether or not I should get the baffles in or not.
 

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TBAR said:
As some of you may know, I was cut off by a tow truck driver on the 4th. My bike went down on the right side. The damage was about $5,000. Obviously the giant stock mufflers were trashed. I will probably replace them with a set of TAB slash cuts but have the following Q's:

1. Are they powder or ceramic coated???? I'm worried about the heat damaging the finish.

2. How well does the color match the heatshields?

3. Anyone have any structural or vibration issues since the lower rear and upper rear exhaust brackets are eliminated?

4. With or Without baffles???????



1.powdercoat
2.match is great with heatshield
3.no
4.baffles sounds great!!
 

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I agree, I have the rolled black pipes for my DX (They aren't on the website last I checked). You have to request to not have the logo on the pipes. They match well. They sound great with no baffles. And customer service is top notch.
 

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What big red said... I agree completely.

One suggestion, I installed the both pipes at the same time as much as I could muscle it... top pipe, then the bottom. Went for a ride to heat it up and I can tighten the bottom some more, but cant access the top pipe with lower one now in the way. I'd suggest installing the top pipe first, take it out for a spin to warm it up, then come back and tighten it down further... then repeat with the bottom pipe.

Mine arent loose, but I know they can be tightened down more. When I get my 1000 service, I'll have the techs take the rear wheel off and then torque them down with an air-wrench.

The flat/matte black color is a perfect match... but the finish of the paint on the pipes is more coarse whereas the heatshields are more fine... Think of it like heatshields are 600 grit sand paper, and the pipes are 400 grit.

With the tuner installed and going topless, I still had a little popping/backfire 3000-4000 rpm when downshifting and decelerating/engine braking from 1st or 2nd gear... I had to adjust the low pot clockwise about 1/3 turn and now it runs perfect and sounds even better.

The directions are absolutely awesome, even I could follow steps 1-7, comes with picture illustrations and everything.

Yes, ask Todd to ship you a set without the Tab Logo... he's cool, he understands we just want to keep the bike's appearance as clean as possible.

I havent noticed any vibrational affects either.

Took me 15-20minutes to remove the stock pipes the night before in anticipation of an install the next day... I also removed the top metal airbox cover exposing the plastic one underneath.

Next night, it took me about 90 minutes to do the wiring install and attach the Tab Pipes, also had to completely remove the plastic airbox as per instructions to access the wiring below and run the new wiring/harnes underneath the throttle body.

The only question I had was "What's the throttle body"? After looking at the pictures, I was able to tell that its the two air ports on top where the airstacks/airbox attaches... I dunno, I'd have called it a carburator, but I'm not a bike mechanic....

Anyway, this was such an easy install... even a CaveMan could do it!
 

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hey MARK, I have a suggestion for you, loosen both clamps(DOWN) so you can wrench them with only taking the bottom heat sheild off .
 

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Thanks Rklein,

I'll have to try that.... I read that before when installing the tabs. I tried to remove the bottom heatshield when removing the stock pipes, but I didnt have a T-6 torx head, I used a T-25 which seemed to fit close, but it wasnt perfect, and I didnt want to bugger up the head.


I found that I could access the bolts to loosen them and remove the stock pipes without removing the lower heat shield.... BUT, installing the new pipes and getting the right pressure/torque is a whole nother story.
 

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Buy a set of the torx screwdrivers at wal mart for next to nothing you don't need anything better. Take off the bottom shield and you can retorque the pipes in five minutes or less Ive done mine about five times and they are on fine. Make sure you position the top nut slightly down or you will see it between the heat shields when you reintsall them. I drove around with the bottom heat shield off for a few days so I could retighten them more easily. If you do that take the bolts out of the header pipe so they don't fall out. The bolts that the torx screws attach to sit in a well on the header pipe.
 
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