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RIP Jerry
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well i tried pounding it out and got it to move 1/2" and it froze. Won't go back in and won't come out any farther. WTF! This is day three Have sprayed penetrating oil from the start seems to be froze inside the two bushings at the back of the motor/trans. Last night i drilled pilot holes at both end maybe three inches in gonna pick up a 12" long 1/4" bit from work and try to drill all the way through so i can stick a torch in and get some heat in their to hopefully free it up. Have also a 1/2" air gun on the 14mm allen side and she's not moving. FOCK ME! With bike fest a little over two weeks away... just knew i shouldn't have attempted this focking Ricks fuel tank swap!
 

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Killer Service Inc.
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8,938 Posts
Do you have the engine supported? this can put it on a bind.

Keep in mind the pivot shaft goes through the rear of the cases.

Be careful on what you do.

support the swingarm with the shocks...

try taking the right side engine mount off...2 bolts...

drift pin and a big hammer...lol

these can be a pain if thy are not lubed and have rusted in...

heat would be the last resort...engine mounts be careful
 

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Blowin' Smoke
Joined
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2,647 Posts
Heating the swing arm pivot shaft is not the answer. Judicious application of heat to the area(s) where it's frozen might help. Not enough to burn the paint/powder coat, just get it warm. Then tap the shaft out.
 

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LEX MALLA LEX NULLA
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1,072 Posts
Man – something isn’t right. I’ve heard of the rear axial being difficult to remove from the wheel but not the swingarm pivot shaft. Support the engine, remove the 30mm nut on the left side (this may be a bigger nut on later models – not sure) and the 14mm hex nut on the right and tap the shaft out from left to right. Once the swingarm is removed, put the shaft back through the frame holes and engine mount to support the engine. There are two bearings on the left side and only a sleeve insert on the right side. Neither one of these should hold the pivot shaft in hard enough to require what you are describing.
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Do you have the engine supported? this can put it on a bind.

Keep in mind the pivot shaft goes through the rear of the cases.

Be careful on what you do.

support the swingarm with the shocks...

try taking the right side engine mount off...2 bolts...

drift pin and a big hammer...lol

these can be a pain if thy are not lubed and have rusted in...

heat would be the last resort...engine mounts be careful
I don't have the swingarm supported with shocks guess will try that. I do have the engine mount bolts off and it seems to be fee their and the swingarm is sliding side to side so that is free their too. I have bent two grade 8 bolts and a drift trying to pound it out.

Thanks
Shad
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Heating the swing arm pivot shaft is not the answer. Judicious application of heat to the area(s) where it's frozen might help. Not enough to burn the paint/powder coat, just get it warm. Then tap the shaft out.
I'm pretty sure its froze at both or just one of the bushings in the engine case like i said in the last post everything else is free. Would be best to heat at the engine case but with the fuel tank right their and think there's a sensor in the area also think I'm screwed.
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Man – something isn’t right. I’ve heard of the rear axial being difficult to remove from the wheel but not the swingarm pivot shaft. Support the engine, remove the 30mm nut on the left side (this may be a bigger nut on later models – not sure) and the 14mm hex nut on the right and tap the shaft out from left to right. Once the swingarm is removed, put the shaft back through the frame holes and engine mount to support the engine. There are two bearings on the left side and only a sleeve insert on the right side. Neither one of these should hold the pivot shaft in hard enough to require what you are describing.
I have not supported the engine. Do you think that's the problem? Will try that also. The nut is removed and the shaft is ruined on the thread side from the pounding. On the left side there's a spacer and i can spin and slide it side to side. I agree something is definitely not right.
Thanks
Shad
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Okay another night of tedious work. I ended up drilling a 1/4" hole through the entire shaft hoping to relieve it still not budging. So i drilled a 7/16" hole from both sides about 4" in still nothing. Tried heating through the holes with a plumbers torch but its like a rose bud and heats to big an area and stopped because I'm just getting the swingarm hotter than the actual shaft. Gonna bring home a oxygen acetylene bottles tonight so maybe i can get heat through to the center of the shaft so maybe doing this a few times will free it up in the bushings where i believe its just rusted. Will try to support the engine today after work also. Thanks for the suggestions.
 

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Premium Member
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353 Posts
I would try to heat anything/everything but the shaft. You want the shaft to stay small and heat/expand what it is stuck in. I hope my shaft doesn't come out this hard. Good luck
 

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Sharks-Parts
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5,659 Posts
I have had to use a air hammer to drive axles through bearings before... what kind of penetrating oil are you using?... can you post a pic of what the axle is looking like now?
 

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Blowin' Smoke
Joined
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2,647 Posts
It sounds like the axle is frozen in the engine case. Since the case is aluminum the cause is probably rust on the axle itself effectively making the axle larger than it should be. You need to heat those bosses on the engine case in order to free the axle up enough to drive out. Heating the axle itself only makes it expand inside the cooler boss. Heat the aluminum; it will heat and expand faster than the steel axle and you should be able to pound it out.

When you reassemble, Never-Seize is your friend.
 

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Sharks-Parts
Joined
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5,659 Posts
when using heat and penetrating oil I like liquid wrench because it is non-flammable....
 

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Blowin' Smoke
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2,647 Posts
If you still don't get the thing out by heating the bosses, try a little liquid nitrogen through the pivot axle now that you have it drilled through. That'll contract it enough to fall out.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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319 Posts
Well i tried pounding it out and got it to move 1/2" and it froze. Won't go back in and won't come out any farther. WTF! This is day three Have sprayed penetrating oil from the start seems to be froze inside the two bushings at the back of the motor/trans. Last night i drilled pilot holes at both end maybe three inches in gonna pick up a 12" long 1/4" bit from work and try to drill all the way through so i can stick a torch in and get some heat in their to hopefully free it up. Have also a 1/2" air gun on the 14mm allen side and she's not moving. FOCK ME! With bike fest a little over two weeks away... just knew i shouldn't have attempted this focking Ricks fuel tank swap!
Rusted bikes in Arizona ... what's the world coming to?
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I have had to use a air hammer to drive axles through bearings before... what kind of penetrating oil are you using?... can you post a pic of what the axle is looking like now?
I tapped the one side 1/2" -20 and tried pulling it back to the seated position but i think all that happens is i compress the crap out of the motor mounts and maybe force the spacers into the mounts? At first it seemed like i pulled it back through but after i tap the shaft the swingarm springs back open. Ugh! Here's some pics...
Thanks
Shad
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
I would try to heat anything/everything but the shaft. You want the shaft to stay small and heat/expand what it is stuck in. I hope my shaft doesn't come out this hard. Good luck
Take a look at the area that needs to be heated on your bike there's a lot of crap in their sensor and most important the freaking fuel tank..
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
It sounds like the axle is frozen in the engine case. Since the case is aluminum the cause is probably rust on the axle itself effectively making the axle larger than it should be. You need to heat those bosses on the engine case in order to free the axle up enough to drive out. Heating the axle itself only makes it expand inside the cooler boss. Heat the aluminum; it will heat and expand faster than the steel axle and you should be able to pound it out.

When you reassemble, Never-Seize is your friend.
Pretty sure that's the problem. If you have a part manual there are bushings in the engine case it doesn't say but pretty sure they're steel and the shaft material is soft probably less than a grade 5 i would say from how easy it is to drill. I understand its best to heat just the case or bushings but I'm afraid of destroying a sensor that's underneath and the fuel tank is pretty much up against the back of the motor. Was hoping maybe heating the inside of the shaft and letting it cool repeating this process a few times would maybe break it loose?? Maybe i will try a low flame under neath it and just take my time heating the case.
Thanks
Shad
 

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RIP Jerry
Joined
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956 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
If you still don't get the thing out by heating the bosses, try a little liquid nitrogen through the pivot axle now that you have it drilled through. That'll contract it enough to fall out.
Where do you pick up liquid nitrogen?
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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746 Posts
If the engine is putting any pressure on the axle, and it is a bit dry in there, it is not going to move. You need to make sure that the engine, and both sides of the swing arm are free of pressure on the axle. I had a little trouble the first time I removed mine, I prepped everything and then used steel punch of similar size and whacked that thing out with a hand held steel mallet.
 

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Sharks-Parts
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5,659 Posts
use a heat gun instead of a open flame.....
 
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