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Supercharger info :)

4.2K views 33 replies 20 participants last post by  latanea  
#1 ·
Called Patrick Racing today, had a long chat with the bossman Nigel Patrick. He was very patient and pleasant, and made a good argument for the new Sprintex supercharger without badmouthing anyone elses product.

I called him because I had a lot of questions, which some here might like the answers to...so here it goes, from what i remember:

Q: What has Sprintex changed since the previous model?


A: From the v&h kit, the redesigned sc has new gears which are 40% stronger than the previous setup. Also; improved seals & clearances and an improved one piece piggyback ECU. The 3rd nozzle temp compensation and mixture compensation has also been reworked.

Q: How have you tested the kit since you started selling it?

A: We put the kit on a totally stock 08 DX, which had 500mi on it previous to the installation. Our dyno, which is pretty conservative, measured the bike at 105 rwhp previous to the installation, and 153 rwhp after. We have since made more than 40 dyno passes around the country. This has confirmed that our dyno is indeed conservative, as we have measured from 5-7 more horses on other people's dynos.

Q: I have tuned my bike to perfection so that it fits my aftermarket exhaust. Why do you require me to flash the ECU back to stock if I buy the supercharger, even though I plan on keeping the same exhaust as was on the bike when it was naturally aspirated? Surely, that would mean at least some bikes are not tuned optimally?

A: (OK: take this with a pinch of salt, this is from memory, and although I got the jist of it, some terminology might be misquoted) The supercharger controls the backpressure to a certain degree, so the different kinds of exhaust becomes less of a variation. A set of pipes which - wiht the right tuning- might give you 6-7 horses, will only give you 2-3 horses on a supercharged bike. We have tested bikes with stock pipes, CFR, TABs (etc) and the variations have been smaller than they usually would. All pipes we have tested, work well with a stock ECU and the Sprintex piggyback ECU, unless the ECU has been reprogrammed.

Q: Performance is always a factor considered when people buy a power adder. Is there any way to turn up boost or make the SC yield more effect than it does today?

A: In theory, yes. But in the interest of longevity and dependability, Sprintex have chosen to not take it further than 150-155 rwhp. You could always tinker around with a different standalone ECU or change the physical attributes of the SC, but this is not something we or Sprintex would recommend. 150-155 HP in a straight and even powerband is very adequate and at the same time, not too stressful on the motor. There are no plans of releasing a higher HP SC in the forseeable future. But remember, the peak HP is at 9100RPM; if you adjust the rev limit the SC just keeps on giving power. So you could gain a couple of peak horses just by adjusting the rpm limit.

Q: V&H had their problems with the previous incarnation of the SC, how many and what kind of problems have you experienced with the current configuration?

A: We've had two. One, there was an installation error by the customer which was rectified after he spoke with us, the other was a dead piggyback ECU. That's all.

Q: What does the kit cost?

A: $5450. We've adjusted the price quite a bit from the V&H days, every one of the kits we have sold this year have been at that price. I think that price makes us very competitive in the power adder market.


Awright guys...I hope this helped answer some questions, it sure did for me. I would really recommend giving Patrick Racing a call for everything this little post does not cover, he seems like a no BS kind of guy to me. Living in a country where coppers are on bikers ALL the time (making the Trask plumbing an easy target for getting my liscence plates confiscated on site), this talk has definitely made me more positive towards the SC route.
 
#4 ·
After all of that, did you find out what type of bearings support the rotors? Were they oil bath or sealed bearings? If they are sealed bearings it will be just a matter of time before the bearing starts to fail, the rotors touch, and send shit down your intake.
 
#5 ·
FYI, the phone # 714-554-7223

The S/C bearings are. Front bearings are oil bath and the rear are sealed. This concerned me too. But, after talking to Nigel and reading about screw S/C I'm OK with them. Because a S/C doesn't turn anywhere near the RPM of a turbo. Also, the heat factor isn't anywhere near a turbo either. Mine has over 1200 miles on it, without any problems.

Also, anytime I've had a question I have been able to email or phone Nigel. He will take the time and answer my question promply. Great customer service.
 
#7 ·
Hmm, maybe it will live. Smart move oil bathing the front since those bearings take most of the load from the drive system. Still a little scared about the rear being a sealed bearing. They may not make as much heat as a turbo does, but it's still making heat and transfering it to that sealed grease bearing. Keep us posted as you keep putting miles on it, say every 5k, 10k, etcc. let us know....
 
#6 ·
Thanks for jumping in there, I had no idea regarding bearings & such. I do know that Zodiac is the European dealer, so you can get the new SCs through them.

Nigel Patrick also made sure to tell me that anyone can stop by and have a ride on their SC'd 08DX.

If I didn't live this far away, I probably would...
 
#13 ·
Hahaha, yeah, funny you should mention it, I got it in the mail a few days ago. Along with a hefty fine.
 
#11 ·
Installed vance and hines Super charger on my 07 vrscx BIG BIG BIG mistake I got the old supercharger that needs to be updated 1500 miles on bike 4 sets of plugs fuel delivery is not right so called May of 08 to Vance and Hines sorry about my luck then approached Patrick Racing Oh you got an old one they dont work will see what I can do It needs to be updated As of Dec 4 NO ANSWER but will get you a price to update not fix the problem When I first installed this by Harley dealer it dyno 145.1 to rear wheel boy was I happy Now I have a useless product Im willing to pay but I mean nothing to these people they got my money In my opinion Sprintex should step up to bat and exchange my unit for a new one I will pay a difference but no communications Ok I feel better
:popcorn:popcorn
 
#14 ·
Is this a screw type supercharger? Similar to the Whipple or Kenne Bell s/c for mustangs?

Is the pulley changeable? If so, boost can be "upped". Yes, they don't spin anywhere near the rpm of a turbo or even that of a centrifugal s/c.

Interesting though about the exhaust. When I raced my centrifugal s/c mustang, exhaust did play a large part in the overall horsepower. Smaller headers with more restrictive mufflers actually increased the boost level at the intake but made less h/p. Bigger headers and an open exhaust made less boost but more h/p.

Restrictive exhaust provided more low end torque but less high rpm h/p.

So, with that said, I think the exhaust will play a role in the overall tune.

Its nice to see another option out there in the forced induction crowd!
 
#15 ·
Boost would be as high as 9 to 10 lbs depending on rpm and throttle position. This is a Screw supercharger and is 98% efficient unlike a Rootes style which is only 70%, this equals higher boost without the heat and power loss.
 
#16 ·
Whenever you read about an SC you always hear the term Parasitic Loss. Since an SC uses engine power to spool up, how much hp would you lose due to Parasitic Loss with this SC?
 
#18 ·
#17 ·
who knows how many forum members have gone with this s/c? who are they & how many trouble free miles logged on?

:popcorn:popcorn:popcorn
 
#21 ·
ok, sum more stupid questions. which system; trask or s/c can do a rolling burnout @ a higher speed? which one can pull a wheely easier?:D
 
#26 ·
no such thing as a stupid question ... or so I thought ...



I'll go out on a limb here and say ..... neither ... or both ... coz quite frankly you can own one or both and if you are a total tosser and just like to "look good" with the latest gear.... but can't ride for shit ... then it wont make any difference if you are on a 150 cc yamaha a vrod or a hayabusa ... conversely have a look at this vid for a bloke breaking ALL the rules and defying all conventions of what you can or can't do on a cruiser.... http://www.perthstreetbikes.com/forum/f14/goldwing-killin-twisties-44949/

PS personally I cant see the point of burnouts ... unless you have more money than sense or are perpetually drunk....why would you want to keep tyre company profits high - dunno about you guys in the US but here a Vrod rear tyre cost $300-450 depending on size/brand????
 
#22 ·
Man...I sure like the looks of the SC system!!!

If 5400 bones is the "out-the-door" price then it puts this system RIGHT at Trask's price point...

I'll MIGHT have to DAYDREAM about the SC instead of the TC...

Too :broke: to do anything else....

Now...you "Trask Tribers" out there please don't take umbrage...I just don't like all of the extra plumbing in the TC system...reminds me of the inside of some of my old boats...
 
#23 ·
Parasitic loss is definitely out there. I would also guess somewhere in the neighbourhood of 10 to 15 horsepower. Not a huge amount, but noticeable. With a turbo, there really is minimal loss. There is also the "quality" of the boost as well. Meaning, at 8 lbs of boost, which heats the air more? We know from compressing air, this alone creates heats. But, a more efficient design will heat the air less. A turbo may heat the air more (or less even!). People believe that because a turbo uses exhaust gas to turn the impeller it will heat up the air more. True, in low demand situations. In high demands though, the air may be moving sufficiently fast enough to be only minimally heated.

Twin screws are quite efficient designs in and of themselves. So are centrifugal units - whether they are superchargers or turbo chargers. Impeller design makes a huge difference.

I would love to see an overlay of back to back turbo and supercharger dyno runs with similar mods run on the same dyno. Just to follow the peaks.

Rolling burnout or wheelie...


Hmmm...


Both!
 
#24 ·
The Sprintex is a Whipple supercharger.

I read so much about the "sealed" bearing concern. Here is my thoughts on them.....

I own and operate an auto repair garage. On a modern auto/tk we have sealed bearings on the alternator, waterpump, a/c compressor, idler pulleys, etc.

Now take the alternator for example. It is driven by a belt off the crank shaft. The crankshaft pulley is usually around 6 inches or so in diameter. The alternator is maybe 1 1/2 inches in size. So it is overdriven at a fairly fast rate. Most alternators have a failure in the electrical parts of them verses the bearings. Same with the water pump and other belt driven components.

These components all have a long service life. Sure there are always a percentage that go bad, but very few.....and then at a very high mileage.

The S/C on the Patrick Racing set-up [Sprintex] is belt driven off of a revised waterpump drive. The pulley is 3 1/2 inches or so. The S/C has a 1 or 1 1/2 inch pulley. Once again it is overdriven, like an alternator on our cars/tks.

We can also compare to sealed wheel bearings. They have a very long life too.

Just my $.02 of thought on the life of sealed bearings in similar applications.
 
#25 ·
The Sprintex is a Whipple supercharger.

I read so much about the "sealed" bearing concern. Here is my thoughts on them.....

I own and operate an auto repair garage. On a modern auto/tk we have sealed bearings on the alternator, waterpump, a/c compressor, idler pulleys, etc.

(SNIP!)

Just my $.02 of thought on the life of sealed bearings in similar applications.
:popcorn
 
#27 ·
With regards to the bearing issue. I work as a mechanic at a Toyota dealer and the TRD superchargers that we install are of the same bearing type if I am not mistaken. They are oil bath on the front bearings and sealed bearing on the rear. They run great and the only problem we ever had was when the belt was tightened to tight putting to much pull of the front nose cone causing the bearings to wear. When they did go bad they just made a whole bunch of noise and we have yet to have one let loose.
 
#31 ·
I've heard, that if you have the buell wheel conversion, and are running 17" wheels, you can pick up tires for less than $100 each. *wink*
 
#33 ·
BeelzeKnut,

Thanks for the post....