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The Big Bad Wolf
2010 DX
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303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm on my '10 DX the other day and as I duck out to pass a cage, the bike jerked and died for a split second in mid-pass. Scared the snot outta me and about jerked me outta the saddle. I completed my ride and it did it two or three more times. I got it back in the barn and cracked open the books.

It felt like a drinking problem, so I started there. I discovered I was about 15k overdue for a change on the pressure side fuel filter (I know, I know...but when the task isn't in the service schedule and you ride all the time, it got overlooked) so I swapped that out. Bike seemed to run better at cruising speed, but it still had the herky-jerks. Yesterday, I cleaned the four main ground points, checked and cleaned the plugs (which only have about 8k on them), checked the battery (good health and charge), and cleaned and tightened the battery cables.

I also swapped the fan relay with the system relay, since that was an easy task. Odd thing is, the fan immediately kicked on with the ignition switch in the OFF position and continued to run for about 30 seconds until I cycled the switch. I found that dubious.

So now I hafta road test it again and see what's up. Any thoughts or advice until I can report back?

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Asatruar
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2,965 Posts
The fan coming on like that when you replace the relay is normal.
 

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Registered
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5,837 Posts
I'm on my '10 DX the other day and as I duck out to pass a cage, the bike jerked and died for a split second in mid-pass. Scared the snot outta me and about jerked me outta the saddle. I completed my ride and it did it two or three more times. I got it back in the barn and cracked open the books.

It felt like a drinking problem, so I started there. I discovered I was about 15k overdue for a change on the pressure side fuel filter (I know, I know...but when the task isn't in the service schedule and you ride all the time, it got overlooked) so I swapped that out. Bike seemed to run better at cruising speed, but it still had the herky-jerks. Yesterday, I cleaned the four main ground points, checked and cleaned the plugs (which only have about 8k on them), checked the battery (good health and charge), and cleaned and tightened the battery cables.


I also swapped the fan relay with the system relay, since that was an easy task. Odd thing is, the fan immediately kicked on with the ignition switch in the OFF position and continued to run for about 30 seconds until I cycled the switch. I found that dubious.

So now I hafta road test it again and see what's up. Any thoughts or advice until I can report back?

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
Fan cycle any time the master fuse or battery cable comes off as well as other certain power interupts is normal. ECM will eventually shut the fans off in around a minute. Me, like you just cycle the switch to speed the process up.
Have you done a fuel pressure check for the problem?
Ron
 

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The Big Bad Wolf
2010 DX
Joined
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303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No, I dont have the tools to do that test.

Yet.

What would cause low fuel pressure?

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No, I dont have the tools to do that test.

Yet.

What would cause low fuel pressure?

Sent from my SM-T560NU using Tapatalk
Tester can be had from several auto supply outfits. It's a GM based that uses an R12 fitting. Same one as the old air conditioning shraders. On the v rod, this valve is on the right side of the throttle body rail, with a plastic spin on cap.
Low fuel pressure generally is from a crack or pinhole in one of the fuel lines or at the connection. Worst case, failing fuel pump or bad regulator. Regulator is on the throttle body block. A healthy pressure is 58-60 and will hold for a while when pump stops. Some will hold psi for a really long time, some will have a slow psi bleed off. A sudden drop when pump quits, then you have a problem or if the pressure never comes up to spec.
Not saying this is your problem but it's the first normal test for your symptoms.
Ron
 

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The Big Bad Wolf
2010 DX
Joined
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303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great info, thanks much. I'll start looking for a pressure tester ASAP. You wouldnt happen to have a pic of the one you use, would you?

Had to do a buncha cagin today, so havent road tested from previous checks yet. Might be able to run it tomorrow. To the dentist. Bleh. -.-

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Premium Member
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11,390 Posts
Borrow a Fuel line pressure gauge from Autozone or Advance or NAPA. No charge but there is a security deposit refunded when you return the gauge.
You will know in about 1 minute if you have problems in the tank or not. Pressure should pop to 55-60 psi when turning the ignition switch on and should hold for quite a while after the switch is turned off. A slow bleed off is acceptable but immediate bleed off is not.
 

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The Big Bad Wolf
2010 DX
Joined
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303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh, so I don't even hafta crank it? Just attaching the valve and turning the switch on will give me a reading?

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Premium Member
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11,390 Posts
Yes. Ignition switch on, on/off switch on will give you pressure.
 

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The Big Bad Wolf
2010 DX
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303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Gotcha, thanks.

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