My bet would be the gas but you could syphon it all out and start with fresh gas and see how it is.
I'd but the gauge set up from an auto supply. It's the older GM based that uses the R12 fitting.Thanks for the advice. As I don't have the equipment to check pressure in the lines, I'll have to ask you if there is a way to diagnose this manually. I will run or syphon the fuel out completely first as suggested and hope that works, if not I will look for a leak which I assume will be in the fuel lines, connections or gas cap. This bike was a one owner garage queen I bought last year and now it has 12k on the clock, so it's all in great condition.
If it ran fine before the condition is caused from a mechanical/electrical reason effecting the tune, not the tune itself. Any fuel pressure issues, lowering the psi will make the bike run leaner on the existing tune. The EPA tune is leanest in those areas to start with so the slightest reason it got leaner as in lower psi, it shows up here first. Like RustyG stated, go rent a tool and find out if that's the issue. They are not expensive either and a good addition to the tool box. Cheaper then having a dealer check it most times.Today, I paid much closer attention and noted that at 2500 rpm minor studdering starts and gets worse between 3-4000 rpm. At 4000, it really smoothes out. I'm reading on the forum this is a common tuning issue but my motor, air intake, filter and exhaust are all stock and this issue just started last week. Would lean tuning suddenly just now start this issue? Can I install a tuner with the stock set up and how difficult are they to use? The local dealer won't even change pipes yet alone touch anything
related to emmissions etc (California) so I stuck where to start next.
Generally the IAC is out of the picture at around 2k at most. Found this out when syncing the throttle bodies on my 13 DX. It will effect the idle part of your condition. Spark plugs might have been crudded up so the treatment might have cleared up the higher rpms. Good to know it's working better now.Today, I got a little time to try to solve the power loss, studdering and bad idle problem. I got a couple of good suggestions, one was to clean the TB and IAC port and check the fuel pressure. I thought I would try the TB and IAC cleaning first and then buy a pressure gauge . I warmed up the bike, and then opened up the throttle body and soaked them and the port pretty good. The valves had all kinds of black gunk on them, Let it cook there for 15 minutes, put it back together and fired it up. Right away the motor sounded like it was ready to go race. Took it out for a short run to blow the crap out and the hesitation, studdering is gone with a noticable increase in power. Smoked like Bogart though and ran smooth at 3500 rpm. I will have to take it out for a couple hours long ride to make sure it's good now, and if not, I will check the fuel pressure for leaks. I learned a lot from this problem and folks in here. Just hope this was THE fix.
50 is not acceptable. Calibration would be based off of 57 minimum and anything below that will lean the mixture out. A leak is possible, a weak pump or even the regulator could be at fault. Now having said that, gauges can be notoriously inaccurate. If you can find another gauge to spin on, I'd do that to compare. This can be any gauge, air, oil or whatever as long as it's in the reading range.Ok so here I am again...I started trying to find the problem first by cleaning the TB .flushed it all out, then took it out around the block and it ran great. I thought the problem was fixed until I took it out again. Went further this time and the studdering under 4k
Started Again. Per Ron's and Rusty's suggestion bought a guage and ran a fuel pressure check, once I got the air bubbles out and up to warm idle it ran at 50-52 psi. Revved up up to 5k, still remained pretty steady at 50 psi. I think this is low and it should read between 55-65 psi. Do you guys think I could have a leak somewhere??Clogged fuel filter? Loose TB Or Something else? Is 50 psi acceptable and if so should I look for an ignition/spark issue ? I think some other folks had to deal with the same issue, but it actually seems to be getting worse. Thanks ?