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1130cc.comaholic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I never stop amazing myself how stupid I can be :slap:
I bought a luggage rack (part #51209-05) from a forum member and never thought to do any research on it. I'm guessing these aren't made to attach the low sissy bar onto them :confused: I don't see any holes to attach it anyway.

So anyway I was going to put it on the bike just to see what it would look like and I guess last time I had the fender off I had cross threaded one of the bolts that hold the base plate on (shown in picture). While trying to get it off I managed to strip it also :banghead: So is there any secret to getting a stripped, cross threaded bolt out? I do have a dremel and I was gonna just cut it off but decided I screwed it up enough already and without being able to use the luggage rack (have to have sissy bar for the wife) I guess there really isn't a reason to take it off now. And I'm guessing there will be a luggage rack for sale soon in the classifieds :D

Oh and yes I realize the bike is horibly dirty, I haven't cleaned it in a couple of weeks. I almost cleaned it just for the picture but I'm lazy :D
 

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Drill and Re-Tap

My suggestion would be to drill out the screw with a drill bit the size of the old screw thread and re-tap it with a larger size diameter. You will need to use a larger screw from now on but this would remove the old one, and fix your crossthreaded problem.
 

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Friend of Max.
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07_NightRodSpcl said:
My suggestion would be to drill out the screw with a drill bit the size of the old screw thread and re-tap it with a larger size diameter. You will need to use a larger screw from now on but this would remove the old one, and fix your crossthreaded problem.
:stupid:

If you decide to leave it in, I'd like first crack at the luggage rack/baseplate thingy.

RJ
 

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lakedrunk said:
Ok, I never stop amazing myself how stupid I can be :slap:
I bought a luggage rack (part #51209-05) from a forum member and never thought to do any research on it. I'm guessing these aren't made to attach the low sissy bar onto them :confused: I don't see any holes to attach it anyway.

So anyway I was going to put it on the bike just to see what it would look like and I guess last time I had the fender off I had cross threaded one of the bolts that hold the base plate on (shown in picture). While trying to get it off I managed to strip it also :banghead: So is there any secret to getting a stripped, cross threaded bolt out? I do have a dremel and I was gonna just cut it off but decided I screwed it up enough already and without being able to use the luggage rack (have to have sissy bar for the wife) I guess there really isn't a reason to take it off now. And I'm guessing there will be a luggage rack for sale soon in the classifieds :D

Oh and yes I realize the bike is horibly dirty, I haven't cleaned it in a couple of weeks. I almost cleaned it just for the picture but I'm lazy :D
I'll bet you didn't make up your bed this morning before leaving for work, either . . . :hidesbeh:
 

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Vendor
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You might try a left hand drill bit and slowly back the old striped head and cross threaded bolt out and then purchase a tap off flebay and re tap it.
 

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Another choice, Go to NAPA tell them the size of the screw or bolt. They will sell you everything you need to put a Helicoil in. They will sell you a Drill bit a Helicoil a little tool that puts the helicoil in and a Tap, plus the screw or bolt.
 

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I have the same one piece luggage rack like yours, I did stripped one bolt also when I was installing it the first time and ended up drilling the bolt with a step drill bit and got it out eventually. Anyway, The 2 small holes in the middle (covered by small chrome buttons-removeable) are actually your mounting point for the small (very small ) sissy bar made for the one-piece luggage rack:

http://www.harley-davidson.com/gma/gma_product.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524448766892&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374309177765&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=2534374309177765&bmUID=1187056758694&bmLocale=en_US

I dont know if they make anything bigger for that rack, imo, it's not large enough for a passenger to lean on.
 

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Stepped drill bits are available at harbor freight for about $10 for a set of 3.

Reverse bits are available at Sears and are sometimes useful.

Best bit is drill and tap or helicoil as suggested above.
 

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Carbon Yeti
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Just go to any good hardware store and get a set of "e-z outs".
 

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Ron Cooper
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Blue point

Its made by snap on its way better than a left hand extractor bit or easy out. It works like a socket you put it over the stripped nut or if you brake the head of the bolt off and have the shaft sticking up put this on it use it like a socket and its fluted on the inside works like a champ everyone should have a set. Its a 13 pc st works both on metric and standard.
 

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1130cc.comaholic
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for everyones resposes :thumb: I think I'm just gonna leave it alone for now. when it comes to the day to get that thing off there I could just cut the head off it and leave it like that, no??? how important is having four bolts there than three :hmm: I guess once I get the head off I might as well finish the job though huh? I'll stop by NAPA tomorrow and see what I can get
 

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Ron Cooper
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more

I only use easy outs if its a flush break or I cant get the bolt extractors on it but here is a nice set of taps and easy outs to think about having for the home garage.
 

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1130cc.comaholic
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
buckeye: that blue point does look like it would be handy to have around, but do you think it would work on the bolt holding the base plate since it's round?
 

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Craftsmann also sells these; may be a cheaper alternative to the BluePoint/Snap-On sets.

The "flutes" run all the way to the rim and should be able to grip the round head.

It looks to me like you only rounded out the Torx part of the bolt: like it was overtightened. You can also try to heat the bolt and, as it cools, try to work it out with a different-sized Torx socket or the above-referenced bolt-outs.

Lastly, you can try to heat the bolt head to a cherry red and pound a Torx socket that is one size bigger into the rounded bolt head. As the head cools down, apply light pressure and increase the pressure as the bolt loosens. This usually takes a few tries, but I have used it several times on oil gallery plugs on engine blocks.

Of course, YMMV and it depends on your comfort level, especially when painted parts are near by.
 

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Ron Cooper
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Yea as dirty said the flutes should grab it what you got there is a torx head carriage bolt or some call it a button head bolt. An easy out would be the cheaper alternative to the bolt extractors they might run a couple hundred dollars. But if you put locktite on the threads plus its cross threaded that would be a reason for mashing up the torx head. Torx head are really not a good thing to be putting that much pressure on. Also upgrade to stainless hard wear whenever you get the chance. heating up the bolt will expand the blot which isn't really what were going for. If you could and it doesn't look like you can and I wouldn't do it on my bike but heating up the area around the damaged hard wear will expand the hole and sometimes enough to work the had wear free especially if you can take some compressed air and flip it of over which will keep the bolt cool hence retracting the hard wear. If I didn't have the ability to do any of the mentioned above I would take my dermal cut an x in the head and put a little heat to the bolt to break up the locktite and use a philips screwdriver to back it out. With the screwdriver use a pair of vise grips to grip the shaft of the screwdriver press down hard on the screwdriver and use the vise grips to turn the head of the bolt.
 

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Paintless Rider
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You could at least try soaking it in some penetrating oil. You could also cut the sides flat with the Dremel and try to get an adjustable wrench, or vice grips on it.
 

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1130cc.comaholic
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I like the idea of cutting the sides flat :thumb:
 
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