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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been having some fun wrenching on my bike over the last couple weekends and figured I’d share some pictures.

Here’s the before and after for the first weekend



And some highlights from this weekend.






Full album available here

With this rebuild I’ll be replacing worn piston rings, crankshaft, rod, thrust bearings and fork seals along with strengthening the motor and transmission for a big bore motor build next year. I also hope to get a few broken tabs on the frame fixed those being the horn mounting tab and the fuse box bracket along with a fresh powder coat to match the black cherry paint.

Of course this is all wishful thinking dependent on the great American dollar and no unexpected events taking place, regardless it will fun as i enjoy taking things apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So this past weekend I pulled the heads, split the case and removed the crank, rods, pistons, and tranny. The front piston was collapsed and the bore didn’t fare much better.

Rear cylinder was in better shape but the piston was starting to show signs of collapse and the bore was scratched, though no to the same degree as the front.

Enjoy the carnage

Front Piston and Cylinder





Rear Piston and Cylinder


 

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Is that burned piston from a bad tune? What could have caused it? The bike certainly looks well maintained and not heavily modified....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I’m trying to work through that myself. Here’s what I know.

I picked the bike up with 4K on it June 2013. The dealer who sold me the bike never checked it out and told me the bike had low mileage and looked well maintained so therefore didn’t require an inspection. From day 1 it blew copious amounts of oil into the air box about 1 Cup every hundred miles. The dealer wouldn’t fix the problem so I started working through it myself.

The bike came with a basterdized exhaust, the factory pipe cut off and a big hideous can welded on the end along with no fuel tuner (lean condition?). At 6K mi after purchase I put on a D&D along with a TTS Mastertune and had it dyno tuned by a reputable shop in Denver. Bike was still spewing oil at this point and I continued to slowly work through different components to try and isolate the problem.

This year at 9K mi I got off the freeway and the bike simply died at the stop light. I ran through more test before preforming a compression test that came back with 130-150PSIG this was the first time I performed a compression test on the bike. After I threw a little WD40 into the cylinder, the pressure spiked to 225PISG thus prompting this rebuild to replace the rings, but I never imagined this when I cracked the motor.

So did the reputable shop put a not so reliable tune on the bike or was the problem there from the start and I somehow prolonged the inevitable? I don’t know, but
 

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I wonder if it ever had a nitrous kit on it ... too much juice, too much timing, not enough fuel would make the piston melt like that...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Talked with Scott Fitzgerald this afternoon and its possible the motor was turboed at some point due to the presence of some Trask insignias all over the motor.

Lean conditions could definitely be explained by someone playing with the boost pressure and not tuning the motor.

I wonder if it ever had a nitrous kit on it ... too much juice, too much timing, not enough fuel would make the piston melt like that...
 

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That would explain a lot ... not enough fuel, too much timing, too much boost = melted pistons from detonation and/or too much combustion chamber temps because of the above.

I've got a piston on my desk (from the my turbocharged Grand National) that looks very similar from a failed second fuel pump on a high boost pass at the track (combined with wheelsman and over rev).
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hello.
I'm wondering if any of you fine street rodders can provide me with a decent photo or two of the fuse box held inside the bracket and a picture of just the bracket.

I'm taking my frame to the welder Friday and would like to provide them with a reference with which to repair my broken fuse box bracket.
Thanks
 

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Interesting back story - hope the rebuild goes well dime bag.

I like the body coloured paint on the frame btw: the original light grey just never looks right on dark coloured bikes to me.
 

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Looks nice. Go with the 1250 kit. I have and it is worth it! Joe
 

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If you're going in, which obviously you are, I would go bigger than 1250. Not much of an upgrade over the 1130 and the cost well worth it. I think there is one around 1340 or so. I know for sure there is a 1430, but not nessesarily recommending going that big, however........ You don't open her up all that often.

Good luck with the build, make it fun, to me, that's a big percentage of the fun of owning a bike.
 

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If it was a Turbo, that is extra heat in the front cylinder.

Most likely stayed in boost way to long which created the extra heat.

I had a front piston that melted the lands together but did not damage the piston top.
The sides where pitted really bad.

Mine was tuned pretty good. Just operator error having to much fun.

If you are going to do just Big Bore the sky is the limit. If you want a racing engine check out Vreelands web page.

If you plan on doing a power added I would not build nothing over 1302.

If you want to spend tons of money a Low compression motor is needed for anything bigger then 1302.

something to think about. Plan ahead and get pricing Most importantly once you have your plan stay with it . Making changes mid stream can up the cost big time.


Love the vrod in traction. That is how I did mine the first time. Moved up from there now.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If you want to spend tons of money a Low compression motor is needed for anything bigger then 1302.

something to think about. Plan ahead and get pricing Most importantly once you have your plan stay with it . Making changes mid stream can up the cost big time.
Just out of curiosity what, besides the power adder and custom low comp pistons , are the additional expenses for building a low compression, big bore motor?

As i've been reading and talking with folks, one of the biggest differences between building a 1402 and 1487 is that with a 1487 the transmission becomes a limiting factor. The 1402 can be build on the edge, but within the tolerance of the stock transmission. The 1487 on the other hand requires additional components like output shaft support bearing, gearing reworked beyond a straight cut 2nd gear, and the dog ears to be reworked for better lock up, as the NA1487's power output will exceed the limits of the stock transmission.

This is just an example but i'm drawing this comparison trying to determine where the component limits are, and as you said find a plan and stick to it.
 

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I love carnage :), except my wallet. I have melted pistons from my RZ350 racebike for ash trays in the garage ;-)
 

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FYI after reading the rest of the thread those pistons look just like the RZ pistons (2 stroke engine) running on the ragged edge of too lean. Not sure what was on your mill prior but that isn't "stock" damage for sure. You're a nice guy to not tear the dealer a new a-hole on this sale imho.

John
 

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Discussion Starter #19
You're a nice guy to not tear the dealer a new a-hole on this sale imho.

John
Everyone's gotta eat, besides when all this happened I was looking for a project bike just didn't have to look to far.

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