Street Rod inverted forks on VRSCA
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Oh yeah, there are major issues with doing this modification... Not to mention $$$. But hey, if you feel like this is something you want to do, go for it!
Might be better going this way! http://www.storzperf.com/jpgs/page8.html
Might be better going this way! http://www.storzperf.com/jpgs/page8.html
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5,766 Posts
I'd bet if you have a shop do the inverted forks for you you'd spend more then 3K. A lot of "rework /fab" to make a Street Rod front end fit on an "A". Now if you can do the work yourself it would be cheaper. Where as the Storz is a bolt on. Either way there is no advantage going inverted. They weigh more, cost more etc. etc. So in the end it's just for the looks.
Here is the link to the mod.
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47832&highlight=inverted+forks
Here is the link to the mod.
http://www.1130cc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47832&highlight=inverted+forks
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1,107 Posts
I've got a right fork I may be willing to sell you. I was whacked last October and it only has a scratch on the bottom. Since it was not my fault, I made the other driver's insurance company pay for anything that had as much as one little scratch on it. If you are interested, PM me.
This is the last reply from Swine's posts on converting to R trees ( he used Marrzochi legs) but using R legs wouldn't change much in the installation, wouldn't have to bore the trees for one thing.
Completed the project and have listed an 8 step guide to fit an "R" frontend on an "A" model frame -
1) First you need to remove steering and fork lock off top and bottom trees.
2) "A" Frame Key Lock - Top tree will need to be machined for clearance to allow for full rotation around the key lock on "A" headstem. (this will require removing most of r/side headlight mounting block on inside of top tree and will cut into headlight mounting face).
3) Top Tree - You will need to relieve inside (back/bottom) edge for clearance on frame tubes.
Bottom Tree - Relieve back edge where needed for clearance on regulator.
You should now be able to mount trees using "A" headstem bolt - The "R" trees/risers mount closer to the bike than the "A" model so clearance with bars & top tree in relation to airbox will need to be checked.
4) Next you will need to mark/drill new steering lock hole and manufacture/weld mounting block for fork stop into top tree. You also need to machine slot in top tree for clearance of key rotation in steering lock.
5) You will need to run allen head bolts for access when mounting bars. These will need to be counterbored into the top tree riser mounting holes from below. This is to allow for clearance on "A" headstem steering lock, etc.
6) Next you will need to manufacture/weld alloy plug for center hole in top tree to cover steering lock.
7) You will also need to manufacture new mounting boss/plate to be welded into headlight area in front of top tree. This will need to be pre-drilled before welding and clearanced on back face for "A" steering lock mount (see step 2). Once welded you will need to tap holes to mount headlight.
8) You will need to slot out section of headlight mounting bracket/top tree to allow access for wiring. Other cables should slot through two remaing holes in top tree.
Final Rake After Mod -
Frame - model "A" = 34deg.
Trees - model "R" = 2deg.
Total Rake Angle = 36deg.
Takes a bit of work but well worth the effort for that true custom look!!!
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Completed the project and have listed an 8 step guide to fit an "R" frontend on an "A" model frame -
1) First you need to remove steering and fork lock off top and bottom trees.
2) "A" Frame Key Lock - Top tree will need to be machined for clearance to allow for full rotation around the key lock on "A" headstem. (this will require removing most of r/side headlight mounting block on inside of top tree and will cut into headlight mounting face).
3) Top Tree - You will need to relieve inside (back/bottom) edge for clearance on frame tubes.
Bottom Tree - Relieve back edge where needed for clearance on regulator.
You should now be able to mount trees using "A" headstem bolt - The "R" trees/risers mount closer to the bike than the "A" model so clearance with bars & top tree in relation to airbox will need to be checked.
4) Next you will need to mark/drill new steering lock hole and manufacture/weld mounting block for fork stop into top tree. You also need to machine slot in top tree for clearance of key rotation in steering lock.
5) You will need to run allen head bolts for access when mounting bars. These will need to be counterbored into the top tree riser mounting holes from below. This is to allow for clearance on "A" headstem steering lock, etc.
6) Next you will need to manufacture/weld alloy plug for center hole in top tree to cover steering lock.
7) You will also need to manufacture new mounting boss/plate to be welded into headlight area in front of top tree. This will need to be pre-drilled before welding and clearanced on back face for "A" steering lock mount (see step 2). Once welded you will need to tap holes to mount headlight.
8) You will need to slot out section of headlight mounting bracket/top tree to allow access for wiring. Other cables should slot through two remaing holes in top tree.
Final Rake After Mod -
Frame - model "A" = 34deg.
Trees - model "R" = 2deg.
Total Rake Angle = 36deg.
Takes a bit of work but well worth the effort for that true custom look!!!
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Its really not a big deal to put the R front end on A model.
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Thats even easier!HawkStang said:
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